Trailer Winch Receiver, Will she go, or will she BOW!

[foreman Etexas]

Good looking job:thumbsup:

 

[Artisan]

Thank YoU!

 

[NormL]

It looks strong to me, sir.:thumbsup: The proof will be when you pull up what is likely to be the heaviest load you're going to carry. I'm sure you will be watching to see if she"bows". If it looks worrisome, you could use 5/8th rod from the point centered under the receiver tube and angled to each side of the underside of the trailer frame where it won't interfere with other functions of the trailer such as dump feature, if so equipped.

Just my :2cents:

 

[sandman2234]

IF... you are concerned that the winch will be stronger than the mount, consider adding an eyelet mounted to the floor somewhere near the next strong point in the trailer. Add a pulley (ie block) to the cable and bring the end of the winch cable back to eyelet as the anchor and you will reduce the strain on the front end by half. It will also slow the winch cable hook down also, but reduces the load on the winch, thereby giving that chinese piece of fine machine a better chance to pull your tractor or the wife's car up onto the trailer. (wife's car dies and you winch it up, you just became the HERO!!). Flat ground pulls on cheap winches "can be" over rated and when you add going up the ramp, or if one wheel accidently slips off the ramp, the load goes up DRAMATICALLY.
I like what you have done so far, but you have the best seat in the house for seeing what will and won't work. I especially like the lower gussets angled because that spreads the load further, giving better support and less likely to bow the crossmember.
David from jax

 

[bindian]

Artisan,
Thanks for including me! I would continue like foreman Etexas mentioned above and when you are ready to test the installation, hook the winch cable to the rear of the trailer and retract the cable to see if there is any deflection or bowing. If so, take a section of 2x8 channel and cut (knotch) it out for any existing structure behind your existing 2x8 channel and weld the new channel in back to back. That won't go anywhere.
hugs, Brandi

 

[radioman]

artisian ... it looks good. I just have hard time visualizing the overall picture of winch on trailer further away, all the pictures are closeups. I can't tell whats directly behind that winch on other side. Also I think you are on the right track adding gussets to the bottom of receiver - but I wonder if you added a plate to box in those two gussets to have a boxed triangle which is the strongest way of building things. overkill? maybe. but if it bows - you will be like I coulda, woulda, shoulda..... I think you also need gussets on top just like on bottom. but before you do that - you need to think about the metal thickness of trailer wall and what it looks like in back. The long flat plate you put on is good start, but a 9lb winch in 1:1 ratio (diurct pull without snatch blocks) in pulling is alot of force.

Otherwise its good build and its exactly what I would have done.:thumbsup: keep up your good work on your projects.

 

[Artisan]

Ok, that's I think 3 guys whom have expressed wishes to see the bigger
picture. Therefore I shall attempt to do so w/ this Artisan Production...

Sound = Artisan
Welder = Artisan
Painter = Artisan
Grinder = Artisan
Director = Artisan
Designer = Artisan
Producer = Artisan
Videographer = Artisan
Post Production = Artisan
Water-Jet Cutting = Monrovia WaterJet

Heres the beef...
WINCH RECEIVER for TRAILER.MOV - YouTube

 

[NHmitch]

I think that the one addition that you mentioned before, that is a must, is adding a fairlead, or two, however the aluminum non-roller fairlead that you added may work out for you. . I looked on eBay, and they are fairly inexpensive, depending on the load that you need to tow. I found one that will handle up to 4000lbs for under $20.00:Universal Roller Fairlead ATV UTV SUV Jeep Winch Replacement 3000-4000 lb Mount | eBay and one that is rated for up to 17500 lbs for around $40.00:Standard Roller Fairlead 8000-17500Lb Recovery Winch For Steel Cable Mount Guide | eBay. Either way, it really is a good set up. The other question is, are you going to tie the electrical wiring into the existing plug for your trailer, or are you going to add an external battery, or a lead that will reach to your truck battery?

 

[Artisan]

Mitch the dump trailer has a 12V battery, it gets charged from the truck when running. I added a Battery tender pigtail and I keep it plugged in
when parked most the time. So, since I have a battery somewhat close by
and knowing the cost of thick wire* I think I will hit up the trailers battery
for my power needs, and, I will make a quick disconnect w/ Anderson Connectors I believe they are called so I can move the winch to other
vechicles if I please like a BX25. I am looking at receiver mounts for
the tractor next and maybe upgrading the battery. It will all happen
one piece of the puzzle at a time. All in the master plan

*We shall see, sometimes better to just buy a pair of jumper cables and
cut the ends off and use the wires...

 

[Artisan]

Duh! Yes, I looked, the winch does come w/ 1 roller fairlead. Once I have
the winch oin hand and assure myself of the cables path either off the top
of the reel, or the bottom, I will cut the trailer wall and install a fairlead.

If I pull off the top of teh winch reel I add unwanted leverage, we will
have to wait and see which path I will take.