Oil & Fuel On my way to 100

   / On my way to 100 #1  

k0ua

Epic Contributor
Joined
Jun 28, 2009
Messages
30,638
Location
Branson, Mo.
Tractor
Kioti DK35se Hydrostat
This weekend I tackled the 50 hour service on my new DK35seHydro tractor

All went well with the exception on the Hydraulic filter on the right hand side of the tractor.. I spent 2 hours in 90 degree heat trying to get that thing to spin off. I cursed the name of that unknown Korean "gentleman" with the big brawny arms that though that thing needed to be put on that tight. After trying 2 different oil filter wrenches, this wimpy office worker just did not have the strength to loosen it. I wound up drilling a 1/2 inch hole through it, and using a piece of 1/2 inch all thread about 3 foot long to break it loose. It bent the all thread, some but I got it loose enough in the 1/8 of a turn "window" I had between the step and the right tire to get back on it with the oil filter wrench and get it out. Putting the new one (full of new clean fluid) back in was fun too. That was the hardest part of the whole job. Lets's see, main drain plug 2 rear differential drain plugs, the hydraulic and the hydrostat filters, (you know the golden one, that cost's like it is made out of gold). Then the front axle 2 drain plugs, and refill everything. My plan was to use the pump to pump in the fluid without holding those nice heavy 5 gallong buckets up and slowly pouring in the fluid..Well that did not work, see pix of the pump. It would barely pump the oil, and would not pump it fast enough to do any good. Pretty much a waste of money. So I held up the 5 gallon buckets to the funnel and slowly poured in 10 gallons in the rear. Then filled the front I am not sure how much there but probably less than 2 gallons. I had the wife watch the sight glass on that one. I did use a clean dry 1 gallon distilled water jug as a transfer container on that one. The dollar general 62 quart Tote, worked well to catch all the oil, even the 10 gallons that poured out of the transmission and rear end. The front axle was drained into a smaller aluminum pan. The engine oil (two plugs) and filter went easy.. cleaned the air filter, greased the loader, and chassis Zerks. Tightened and checked all important fasteners including the wheels and loader bolts. Found a few sorta loose ones. It took me 2 partial days. Now I know why they want real money to do this. If the Hydraulic filter hadn't taken so much "starch" out of me, I probably could have done it all the first day. But it is still a lot of work in the heat. Also when crawling around under the tractor, I found a huge rats nest on top of the transmission all intertwined with the range selector linkage and electrical wires.. That was fun to remove.. the folding pocketknife shows the scale.

James K0UA
 

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   / On my way to 100 #2  
For future reference you do NOT have to fill the hydro filter, or any other filter prior to installing it.
The hydrostat filter is usually baked on at the factory when they paint the engine/trans, and using a chain wrench or large channel lock type professional oil wrench is usually in order.
Make sure you don't over-tighten the oil drain plugs or they could strip out in the pans. This is not uncommon for do it yourselfers according to my dealer.
 
   / On my way to 100
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Yes a good chain wrench would probably have worked for me, but I did not have one. Well I did get it off. It should be easier from now on. By the way the schedule in the manual leaves a lot to be desired.. I interpret it that at 100 hours and every 100 hours thereafter I need engine oil and filter. and hydraulic and hydrostat filters at 200 and every 200 thereafter, and at 400 change the hydraulic fluid and front diff. fluid and every 400 thereafter.. is that the way you see it?

James K0UA
 
   / On my way to 100 #4  
Okay, I'm a wimp... I'm gonna take it to the dealer for service after reading this. Right now my challenge seems to be to get the dealer to tell me a ball-park figure for how much, what it wil cost me to add another set of remotes, and when he would like me to drag it in. I've left messages three times with a promise of return calls, but no luck.

I want to deal with the folks I purchased it from- they were very helpful in going over everything - but the other dealer I spoke with is more than willing to take my money I think. They also service Ferris and I am in need of having my ZTR serviced also. I'll give it one more shot with the original dealer, then try the other folks.
 
   / On my way to 100
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Okay, I'm a wimp... I'm gonna take it to the dealer for service after reading this. Right now my challenge seems to be to get the dealer to tell me a ball-park figure for how much, what it wil cost me to add another set of remotes, and when he would like me to drag it in. I've left messages three times with a promise of return calls, but no luck.

I want to deal with the folks I purchased it from- they were very helpful in going over everything - but the other dealer I spoke with is more than willing to take my money I think. They also service Ferris and I am in need of having my ZTR serviced also. I'll give it one more shot with the original dealer, then try the other folks.

Well I didn't mean the post to try to discourage anyone from doing it themselves. It was hard work, at least for me, but hard work never hurt anyone:) The biggest part of the problem was that darn hydraulic filter. The hydrostat filter on the left side was easy, and the oil filter was easy. If I had a good chain wrench, it would probably have not been a problem. And next time I am NOT going to fill that darn hydraulic filter before screwing it on. Like a lot of things, if you are better prepared, it will go easier.:thumbsup:

James K0UA
 
   / On my way to 100 #6  
Yes the hydraulic filter is stupid tight but just stop at a good auto/truck supply shop and pick up a oil filter wrench for 1/2" drive ratchet/breaker bar, mine came right off with assistance from a cheeter pipe!! Take your new filter with you to be sure of the size but it is the same as most oil filters for class 8 trucks and large industrial engines. As far as not filling you hydraulic suction filter, suit yourself but your pump has to pull that volume of air through it and pumps don't like to pull air. CJ
 
   / On my way to 100 #7  
I used a pipe wrench on my HST filter which made it easier and I ended up borrowing a neat set of vice grips with a chain from my neighbor for the hyd filter. I put the replacement hyd and engine filter on by hand and gave the hst filter a little extra with the pipe wrench but no where near as tight as it was.
Next time it should go pretty fast as now I have my oil drain pans figured out and how to refill every thing.
 
   / On my way to 100 #8  
Well I didn't mean the post to try to discourage anyone from doing it themselves. It was hard work, at least for me, but hard work never hurt anyone:) :thumbsup:

James K0UA

Nope, it doesn't discourage me, but since I also want to add another remote, it makes sense to me to let the dealer have the pleasure. He finally phoned and it's a reasonable price to do the service and add the remote. I also ask if he charged extra for me to watch and he said only if I tried to help...:eek:

I'm taking it over on Monday.
 
   / On my way to 100
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Nope, it doesn't discourage me, but since I also want to add another remote, it makes sense to me to let the dealer have the pleasure. He finally phoned and it's a reasonable price to do the service and add the remote. I also ask if he charged extra for me to watch and he said only if I tried to help...:eek:

I'm taking it over on Monday.

do you mind saying how much he charges in labor for the service?

James K0UA
 
   / On my way to 100 #10  
$180 for the service, including oil and filters- I'll have to see the bill to see what the breakdown is, and $500 fo parts and labor to add the 2nd set of rear remotes.
 
   / On my way to 100 #11  
$180 for the service, including oil and filters- I'll have to see the bill to see what the breakdown is, and $500 fo parts and labor to add the 2nd set of rear remotes.

Here's what my dealer wants,
Here's the price for the rear remote:

322014 - Conversion Valve Kit - Single to Double, installed is $500 + tax. I will need to order one if you want it.

The 50 hour service is done here at our location, so you'll have $100 + tax for pick-up and delivery. The labor and shop supplies is $283 + tax. The oil filters, oils and fuel filter run $97.92. Total service is $480.92 + tax. The price would be less if we use the filters you already have on hand.

Let me know - thanks
 
   / On my way to 100
  • Thread Starter
#12  
$180 for the service, including oil and filters- I'll have to see the bill to see what the breakdown is, and $500 fo parts and labor to add the 2nd set of rear remotes.

Oh heck.. no wonder you are having them do it.. I spent $216 on 15 gallons of Mobilfluid 424, and used maybe 12 gallons.( I filled the front diffy with that too). the Hydro filter was 87 dollars.. and I am not kidding.. I don't know what the engine oil filter costs. but I see them on e-bay for about 12 bucks.. I used rotella from wal mart. I already had it. and the Hydraulic filter (the horrible thing) I don't know what it costs. so for $180 for everything.. Heck yes. go for it. They quoted me 450 for the second set of remotes. I did not do it .. I probably should have.. I probably should have let them service the 50 hour too:ashamed: But I did not get a quote on that. Oh well I need to think of it not as a job.. it was an Adventure!
Oh the reason I don't know what some of those filters cost is they gave me everything but the little hi dollar hydro filter when I signed the papers.
James K0UA
 
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   / On my way to 100 #13  
Here's what my dealer wants,
Here's the price for the rear remote:

322014 - Conversion Valve Kit - Single to Double, installed is $500 + tax. I will need to order one if you want it.

The 50 hour service is done here at our location, so you'll have $100 + tax for pick-up and delivery. The labor and shop supplies is $283 + tax. The oil filters, oils and fuel filter run $97.92. Total service is $480.92 + tax. The price would be less if we use the filters you already have on hand.

Let me know - thanks

Well, I guess my thoughts that the price he is charging is reasonable is on target. I do have to deliver and decided to rent a trailer to take the tractor to him. He offered to let me use their trailer, but it's a 90 minute drive to their shop and would require me to go get it/take it back and be three round-trips.

I can rent the trailer from SunBelt for $65 per day and the dealer said they can knock it out in one day. Even if it takes two, I think I'm ahead on gas usage alone. I'll just leave the trailer at the shop if I have to go back a second day and won't be lugging the trailer back and forth empty.

After seeing your post KOua, I think I better be sure they aren't leaving anything out (like hydo filter) just to be sure.
 
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   / On my way to 100 #14  
i added the second remote to the DK50se. I cussed a lot, took me most of the afternoon, cussing the locktite on the studs on the valve assembly, but the trick that I took too long to figure out was to take off the plastic access panel. I am an idiot. 3 hours of cussing before I figured that out. I believe the kit was like $320 list, on sale for like $280. There is nothing magic about putting on the second set of remotes. I wouldn't consider paying the dealer $220, now that I know to take off the plastic access cover. Depends on how handy you feel.
 
   / On my way to 100 #15  
the 50 hour service prices here seem too low to include the hydro fluid change.
 
   / On my way to 100 #16  
Yes a good chain wrench would probably have worked for me, but I did not have one. Well I did get it off. It should be easier from now on. By the way the schedule in the manual leaves a lot to be desired.. I interpret it that at 100 hours and every 100 hours thereafter I need engine oil and filter. and hydraulic and hydrostat filters at 200 and every 200 thereafter, and at 400 change the hydraulic fluid and front diff. fluid and every 400 thereafter.. is that the way you see it?

James K0UA

A qualified yes on that. Yes to changing the filters at the books stated intervals, UNLESS one uses synthetic oil, like I do for the engine, then longer intervals could be used. I've got over 450 hours on my current DK-40 and have NEVER changed the hydraulic fluid, only the filters and front diff fluid at 400hrs. The hydraulic fluid is in a closed system and does not see much to contaminate it like engine oil which injests air, thus dirt. Unless the stick shows something unusual like weasel piss color then it stays and maybe goes at 600hrs or 800, or never, time will tell.
I will change the coolant at about 2 years or when it looks tired. I always change the filters at the recommended intervals.
 
   / On my way to 100 #17  
Also when crawling around under the tractor, I found a huge rats nest on top of the transmission all intertwined with the range selector linkage and electrical wires.. That was fun to remove.. the folding pocketknife shows the scale.

James K0UA

James,

I had a mouse nest on top of the gas tank, they striped one fuel gauge wire bare. I had a birds nest up under the left rear wheel way up in the corner of the fender.

I need to go look on top of the transmission now it seems...

I tried the dryer sheet trick and so far so good. Prolly time to put new ones in...

I still need to do the front axle :ashamed:.

To get the tight filter off, I bought a channel lock style filter wrench and ate my wheaties that day...

David
 
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   / On my way to 100
  • Thread Starter
#18  
James,

I had a mouse nest on top of the gas tank, they striped one fuel gauge wire bare. I had a birds nest up under the left rear wheel way up in the corner of the fender.

I need to go look on top of the transmission now it seems...

I tried the dryer sheet trick and so far so good. Prolly time to put new ones in...

I still need to do the front axle :ashamed:.

To get the tight filter off, I bought a channel lock style filter wrench and ate my wheaties that day...

David

The front axle was a piece of cake.. just the 2 little plugs drained into an old aluminum pan and I cut a funnel to stick in the filler hole tightly. I used a 1 gallon jug to pour in the fluid, and had the wife stationed to watch the sight glass on the other side of the tractor. There was a "delayed reaction" for the fluid to travel to that side so pour slowly.

James K0UA
 
   / On my way to 100 #19  
The front axle was a piece of cake.. just the 2 little plugs drained into an old aluminum pan and I cut a funnel to stick in the filler hole tightly. I used a 1 gallon jug to pour in the fluid, and had the wife stationed to watch the sight glass on the other side of the tractor. There was a "delayed reaction" for the fluid to travel to that side so pour slowly.

James K0UA

It is not because it is hard I have not done it... It is because I am a knucklehead and I just forget. Now it os close to 100 hours so I figure, I will just do it then (and closer to "On-Time"). :laughing:

David
 
   / On my way to 100 #20  
I've got over 450 hours on my current DK-40 and have NEVER changed the hydraulic fluid, only the filters and front diff fluid at 400hrs. The hydraulic fluid is in a closed system and does not see much to contaminate it like engine oil which injests air, thus dirt. Unless the stick shows something unusual like weasel piss color then it stays and maybe goes at 600hrs or 800, or never, time will tell.
I will change the coolant at about 2 years or when it looks tired. I always change the filters at the recommended intervals.

This is where I am confused. Some places in the manual it says only to change the hydraulic filter at the 50 hr mark and in another place it seems to say to change both the filter and oil. Which is correct?
 

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