TN70- name the part

[koamfps]

Ok, so I'm stuck on stupid. You know the part on /in the rear axel that hooks to the lift arms for the 3 point so they go up and down.... What is that part called?
Are the seals relatively easy to replace? My left side is leaking

Thanks
Sorry for my ignorance

 

[koamfps]

..Ok so maybe I'm not getting it.. I went to NH site it says it's a implement carrier and from what I can match up it has a bar that slides through the back of the Transmission that the implement carrier arms attach to on each side and appears a seal is leaking.... Is this making any sense or am I spinning my wheels still? Confused

 

[Bigfoot62]

Can you show me? Either take a picture while pointing to the part or if you can point it out in one of these listings: (it's the fourth picture in both listings)
NEW HOLLAND TN70 40 HP to 99 HP For Sale At TractorHouse.com
2004 NEW HOLLAND TN70 40 HP to 99 HP For Sale At TractorHouse.com

 

[whodat526]

..Ok so maybe I'm not getting it.. I went to NH site it says it's a implement carrier and from what I can match up it has a bar that slides through the back of the Transmission that the implement carrier arms attach to on each side and appears a seal is leaking.... Is this making any sense or am I spinning my wheels still? Confused

i believe the bar you are talking about is called a load bar atleast in a jd tractor

 

[Jerry/MT]

..Ok so maybe I'm not getting it.. I went to NH site it says it's a implement carrier and from what I can match up it has a bar that slides through the back of the Transmission that the implement carrier arms attach to on each side and appears a seal is leaking.... Is this making any sense or am I spinning my wheels still? Confused

Are you talking about the pivot pin for the three point lift arms? It's situated at the bottom of the rear axle housing and the lift arm pivots on it when you raise and lower the three point hitch.

 

[RickB]

..Ok so maybe I'm not getting it.. I went to NH site it says it's a implement carrier and from what I can match up it has a bar that slides through the back of the Transmission that the implement carrier arms attach to on each side and appears a seal is leaking.... Is this making any sense or am I spinning my wheels still? Confused

If the leak is at the tractor end of the lift arm, you are on the right track. order a seal, o-ring, snap ring, spherical bushing, and take a very good look at the torsion bar where the bushings & seals ride. If you have one side leaking, might consider doing both. Place position and draft levers fully forward/down before removing the bar.

 

[koamfps]

Thanks Rick. 2 questions If only on side is leaking why do the other side Lastly I get the seal and the O ring why the other parts?

 

[RickB]

Beacuse if one side is leaking, the other is likely to leak soon, and/ or will be damaged in the course of the repair. New Holland recommends bushing replacement and it is often damaged in removal. The nature of the snap ring and its placement is such that it is cheaper to sacrifice it than spend $1.20 per minute (shop labor rate) to remove it intact for re-use. Your mileage may vary, and the economics of a DIY repair coupled with your tolerance for the odds of re-visiting the leak due to an incomplete repair may be different than that of a professional repair shop. I will tell you upfront that the spherical bushing is not cheap.

 

[darwood112]

I changed both of them on my tn 65, took about 45 minutes. Easy Peezy. Just get the parts from NH, and a few tools, done.

 

[koamfps]

Darwood when you changed them did you only change the seal or everything?

Also I assumed u had to brain the fluid as well

 

[sam5570]

Beacuse if one side is leaking, the other is likely to leak soon, and/ or will be damaged in the course of the repair. New Holland recommends bushing replacement and it is often damaged in removal. The nature of the snap ring and its placement is such that it is cheaper to sacrifice it than spend $1.20 per minute (shop labor rate) to remove it intact for re-use. Your mileage may vary, and the economics of a DIY repair coupled with your tolerance for the odds of re-visiting the leak due to an incomplete repair may be different than that of a professional repair shop. I will tell you upfront that the spherical bushing is not cheap.

preventive matinance they callit if you put a new part in and leave a used part in then chances the old part will fail shortly after you put the new one in happens most of the time replace both sides be done with it :thumbsup:

 

[darwood112]

I changed all the small parts, seals, bushings, etc. did not have to drain the fluid, or pull the horizontal shaft out either. Was not a very big job at all.

 

[RickB]

I changed all the small parts, seals, bushings, etc. did not have to drain the fluid, .

Changing the torsion bar seals on a TN tractor without draining the hyd oil is impossible unless all the fluid had already leaked out.
Removing the seal housing leaves a hole approximately 2" in diameter near the bottom of the rear axle center section. All but a couple quarts of oil will be on the ground immediately if not drained beforehand.

 

[pacerron]

The TN70 has lower link draft sensing so you don't want any leaks there.

 

[darwood112]

There are o rings behind the caps at the end of the lift arms. That's what I replaced.

 

[PhillipG]

Beacuse if one side is leaking, the other is likely to leak soon, and/ or will be damaged in the course of the repair. New Holland recommends bushing replacement and it is often damaged in removal. The nature of the snap ring and its placement is such that it is cheaper to sacrifice it than spend $1.20 per minute (shop labor rate) to remove it intact for re-use. Your mileage may vary, and the economics of a DIY repair coupled with your tolerance for the odds of re-visiting the leak due to an incomplete repair may be different than that of a professional repair shop. I will tell you upfront that the spherical bushing is not cheap.

Do you have any recommendations for getting the snap rings out? They are proving to be quite the pain!

Phillip

 

[koamfps]

Do you have any recommendations for getting the snap rings out? They are proving to be quite the pain!

Phillip

Phillip snap a picture and post it. I having a brain fart.

 

[RickB]

I changed all the small parts, seals, bushings, etc. did not have to drain the fluid, or pull the horizontal shaft out either. Was not a very big job at all.

The TN70 has lower link draft sensing so you don't want any leaks there.

There are o rings behind the caps at the end of the lift arms. That's what I replaced.

Sorry, The o-rings can't be changed without removing the housings, which will allow any remaining oil to immediately drain. And the o-rings are almost never the cause of a leak because they seal two parts that don't move after assembly. Done this job too many times to be told it can be done with any significant amount of oil in the rear end.

 

[appalachian]

I know this is an old thread that was brought alive again a few months ago, but I'd like to add a tip for getting the snap rings out, for anyone doing the job in the future. I took a 1/8" pin punch and ground the tip flat and sharp with a slight taper (like a chisel except with a long gradual taper), and then ground the sides sharp and at a rounded angle toward the tip, like the shape of an arrowhead. Then you can easily pry the ring out of its groove starting near one end of it because the groove is slightly wider than the ring diameter.

Also, RickB is correct about needing to drain the oil. Pulling a cap off would result in a pond under the tractor the size of the Valdese oil spill :shocked:.

 

[2bON2b]

RickB I have to replace the seals mentioned in this old post. I didnt buy the snap rings so i hope i can remove them without harm. Are they true snap rings or are they circlips? however what is the best way to remove the support flange? rotate it 90 degrees and percussively persuade out of the transmission housing?

Thanks