I think my tail wheel is too big

   / I think my tail wheel is too big #21  
You would think that would result in ether the weld pulling or binding of the tail wheel...

If just the shaft is bent, how would that bind the wheel? And if it was welded properly, you could bend that shaft in a circle and still not break the weld.:thumbsup:
 
   / I think my tail wheel is too big #22  
If just the shaft is bent, how would that bind the wheel? And if it was welded properly, you could bend that shaft in a circle and still not break the weld.:thumbsup:

I'm writing about the shaft the wheel/fork assembly pivots around. I would think that would have bent some when (and if) the previous owner backed into something...according to the OP, it seems to pivot easily.
Just conjecture on my part.
 
   / I think my tail wheel is too big #23  
Not necessarily...
The link is to a Land Pride cutter operator's manual. It should open to page 44 (which shows the tail wheel bracket):
http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/manuals/312-849p.pdf

And here's the actual pic I pulled from the manual. The picture shows the tail wheel fork canted back from the factory

Roy- I agree its should be canted- but with the canted angle AND bent shaft just contributes to the rubbing.

take a look at the pics I posted
 

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   / I think my tail wheel is too big #24  
Roy- I agree its should be canted- but with the canted angle AND bent shaft just contributes to the rubbing.

take a look at the pics I posted

Yeah, I saw that when you first posted the pics..even enlarged the pic to get a closer look.
As I wrote previous, I'm still thinking the tail wheel assemble may have come from a another cutter (looking at the differences in the paint weathering. Speculation on my part.
So, I wonder how Mike (the OP) is going to fix it?
 
   / I think my tail wheel is too big #25  
Zebra has it right. The assessment of the photo close up is an optical illusion. Take a look at the cant at the top of the shaft. It matches the cant at the bottom. Add to all of this the subtle fish eye effect of the lense and while there might be a subtle tweak on the wheel it is not what is causing the binding. The wheel looks to be from an old deer implement.

Carl
 
   / I think my tail wheel is too big #26  
Mike, perhaps you should pull the wheel/caster assembly out so you can actually see the whole shaft? They come off real easily and that would answer your question as to whether it's bent once and for all. Hard to diagnose what you can't see.

Joe
 
   / I think my tail wheel is too big #27  
IMO,it is the vertical shaft that is bent.
The washer in the green box should be parallel to the ground and the bottom of the vertical tube, not at an angle to them.
View attachment 260572

Aaron Z

Roy- I agree its should be canted- but with the canted angle AND bent shaft just contributes to the rubbing.

take a look at the pics I posted
Yes. Astoundingly obvious. Yet we have debate.:confused2:
larry
 
   / I think my tail wheel is too big #28  
Yes. Astoundingly obvious. Yet we have debate.:confused2:
larry

:laughing::laughing:

And even if it is a "different wheel" and is "supposed" to be bent like that (which I doubt), the obvious solution is to heat up the shaft, and bend it so it wont rub. Problem solved very simply. Who cares what the wheel is off of or wether it is "actually" bent or not. Just modify it to work. Its not rocket science
 
   / I think my tail wheel is too big #29  
:laughing::laughing:

And even if it is a "different wheel" and is "supposed" to be bent like that (which I doubt), the obvious solution is to heat up the shaft, and bend it so it wont rub. Problem solved very simply. Who cares what the wheel is off of or wether it is "actually" bent or not. Just modify it to work. Its not rocket science

YES!!!

Joe
 
   / I think my tail wheel is too big #30  
LD1 said:
:laughing::laughing:

And even if it is a "different wheel" and is "supposed" to be bent like that (which I doubt), the obvious solution is to heat up the shaft, and bend it so it wont rub. Problem solved very simply. Who cares what the wheel is off of or wether it is "actually" bent or not. Just modify it to work. Its not rocket science

Yup, what I said twenty posts ago. It's a ten minute fix.

Do get yourself a flexing top link. I had this EXACT problem on a used land pride that came with my tractor. Original owner was using a solid top link and bent the tail wheel on some humps. I fixed the tail wheel, got a 4' piece of 1/4" chain and two clevises. Replaced the top link with chain with a clevis on each end and it works like a charm. Total cost - less than ten bucks.
 

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