PTO Clutch Lever

[tdkins]

I'm trying out a M5030SU and it has a PTO clutch lever. Anybody have any experience with this on the proper way it is used. I had my bushhog hooked up to it today, which has a lot of slack in it. When I would press the clutch all the way down it would grind engaging the PTO, so I started pulling up on the PTO clutch lever, press clutch all the way in, engage PTO, then let clutch out some, then slowly let down PTO clutch lever and let the PTO start slowly. Never had any problems engaging with my other tractor, it is a little less hp but quite a bit older. When the shaft was not connected to my PTO it would engage fine without clutch lever. Any other pros or cons with this model? Thanks.

 

[tdkins]

anybody know about a pto clutch lever?

 

[TripleR]

I am not familiar with that model, but according to Tractor Data it has an Independent PTO and none of our tractors with that type PTO require anything other than to slowly engage the PTO lever slowly with the engine at around 1000-1200 RPM or so. The foot clutch has no impact on their operation.

This might help:http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/22763-power-take-off-types.html

 

[pacerron]

anybody know about a pto clutch lever?

I don't totally follow your question. Are you trying out a tractor you don't own yet in anticipation of buying?
Most, if not all, tractors manufactured in the last 20-30 years have a lever to engage the PTO. Some have brakes for the PTO built in to stop the shaft quickly when the lever is disengaged. If yours does, you should not be able to turn the PTO shaft by hand with the engine shut down in the disengaged position.
The proper way to engage any PTO, from my experience, is with the engine running at idle and slowly.
Likewise, the proper way to disengage a PTO is with the engine running at idle and slowly unless in an emergency..
As you said, it is as clutch.
Those of us who have owned tractors with PTO's that have brakes on the shaft have found we don't have brakes anymore after engaging and disengaging the PTO at higher engine RPM for a couple years with a bush hog on the back. Those big long heavy blades have a lot of Kinetic Energy which is squared by the speed of rotation.
Some bush hogs also have clutches which could be your problem, but if the problem only exists on the tractor you mentioned "trying out" an expensive repair might be forthcoming soon.
Ron

 

[tdkins]

Thanks for the replies, I am looking at the tractor to buy, it was a trade in at a john deere dealer and they are letting me use it before I buy it to make sure it fits my needs. I do have a PTO lever to engage and disengage the PTO on the tractor. I also have the PTO clutch lever. When the PTO is running at idle and I pull up on the clutch lever it does free up the PTO from the gears and I can stop it with my hand without totally disengaging the PTO lever itself. I haven't used the clutch lever or engaging PTO at anything higher than idle. I've had and driven several other tractors, but none have ever had this lever on them. My other Tractor would grind a little engaging the bushhog, I assume it takes a lot of pressure to start turning it.

My question is the proper way to engage the PTO lever. By pressing the clutch pedal all the way down and engage the lever. Or incorporate the PTO Clutch lever as well and let it start the PTO a little slower. My bushhog driveshaft has a lot of slack in it.

I'm going to hook it up to my auger this evening and see if their is a difference while engaging it. Thanks again for the link and input.

 

[TripleR]

Wish I could help, but I have never even seen anything like that.

 

[rbargeron]

I do have a PTO lever to engage and disengage the PTO on the tractor. I also have the PTO clutch lever. I've had and driven several other tractors, but none have ever had this lever on them.....
My question is the proper way to engage the PTO lever. .

Hi - On several Kubota models the foot clutch pedal is separate - for travel only. It has no effect on the pto, which has its own separate clutch.

For the pto there's a shift lever that selects Hi, Neutral or Lo speed, and another lever for engagement of the clutch. There are latches of different styles to prevent inadvertent engagement. The PTO clutch is completely independent of the travel clutch.

The correct pto clutch technique is: At reduced engine rpm and with the pto clutch disengaged, use the shift lever to select Hi or Lo pto speed, then slowly move the engagement lever to apply the pto clutch.

There shouldn't be any grinding unless the linkage needs adjustment.

 

[pacerron]

I can stop it with my hand without totally disengaging the PTO lever itself. .

You should never do that regardless of how many levers you have.
If you have any respect for having a body that is not broken or dismembered
now and for your family, you will shut the engine off before messing with any PTO shaft on any tractor.

 

[teg]

...If you have any respect for having a body that is not broken or dismembered now and for your family...

I think this is similar to my L2800... where you can flip the pto lever into the off position without having to use the clutch. (He's not putting his hand on a spinning pto shaft, he not leaving his seat ). The lever just disconnects the PTO from the transmission.

For engaging the pto (at least on my L2800) you push the clutch in, move the PTO lever into the "On" position and slowly let out the clutch to bring power to the pto.

 

[pacerron]

(He's not putting his hand on a spinning pto shaft, he not leaving his seat ). .

Hope your right, even though he says, "can stop spinning PTO with hand"
He has mentioned a sloppy drive or lot of slack to his bush hog a couple times.
That could be interpreted to mean worn universal joints on either or both ends
of the shaft to the bush hog. Picture in your mind the U-joint exploding on the end attached to the bush hog, even within the confines of the guard.
If the little safety chain from the guard does not hold the broken assembly in place, which it likely won't, because the chain is normally attached to the mower at a lower point than the gearbox, then you have a 5 foot or so assembly spinning wildly until it contacts the mower, the ground, a lower tractor link, or the back of his head, doing lots of damage as it goes.

 

[teg]

Hope your right, even though he says, "can stop spinning PTO with hand"...

Yea, I went back and re-read it a few times and now, I'm not sure what lever he's talking about...

 

[pacerron]

Yea, I went back and re-read it a few times and now, I'm not sure what lever he's talking about...

Me either. I Googled the # he gave and it is a single speed 540 RPM PTO.
I think we are done until he gets back with more info and results of auger test.
If he is buying from a dealer it must be an "as is" deal rather than a "ready to work" deal. That model is not that old, but may have excessive hours.

 

[zoltanthegypsy]

Don't know that machine at all, so I'll add my ignorance...

Is what the OP is calling the "PTO clutch lever" the rear/mid PTO selector? Like on my little BX? If so, it probably isn't intended to be engaged/disengaged "hot".

Z.

 

[teg]

this might be what he's talking about...

PTO CLUTCH LEVER Parts for Kubota M5030SU

PTO CLUTCH FORK Parts for Kubota M5030SU

 

[tdkins]

Hooked up the auger today and PTO worked very well by just pressing in the clutch pedal with my foot, must just be an issue getting the bushhog started turning. Also talked to a Kubota dealer today and they said the PTO Clutch lever was only installed on a few models and it is designed to disengage the clutch from the PTO shaft without the operator moving the PTO engagement lever to disengage completely. It is not meant to hold for long periods of time, only short increments for whatever reason you might need the PTO disengaged. For example bushhogging over short rocky area you could pull the PTO clutch lever up and it stops turning as you pass over the rocks and let the lever back down to start cutting again. The diagram is the part I am referring to and the lever has label on it "PTO Clutch Lever". It could also be used in case of emergency to pull up quick to disengage PTO as it is closest lever to the seat. I haven't nor would I want to make a habit of using it at any higher RPM's than idle.

After further testing today I found the foot clutch pedal has no effect on the PTO turning until the PTO lever is disengaged. It does seem to turn a bit faster at idle than others I have used in the past. I believe this may be part of the issue with the bushhog.

The tractor was a trade in and I am getting a very good deal on it if everything is in working order. It's not coming from a Kubota dealer so he's not as familar with the specific operation without doing more research. If anything is not working then we'll have to discuss price more or them have it fixed. I feel comfortable they will take care of me as I am friend's with the sales guy and owner.


I'm new to posting on forums, guess I need to pay a little more attention since wording is taken very literal by some. By slack in the bushhog, I mean where the shear pins bolt the driveshaft to the cutter, the holes are somewhat worn and causes a little slack when spinning, nothing dangerous as shear pins are meant to do what they are called to prevent damage, shear off. By stopping with my hand, I meant as the clutch is disengaged from the shaft there is no pressure on it to turn, such any pressure on the outside of the shaft will cause it to stop before its momentum stops it naturally. I have operated several different older tractors over the years, but am not an expert or pro on them by any means, but I do know what safety aspects to follow.

Thanks again for the input and parts diagram.

 

[bucktaker]

you know pictures are worth thousand words:laughing::laughing:

 

[pacerron]

Hooked up the auger today and PTO worked very well by just pressing in the clutch pedal with my foot, must just be an issue getting the bushhog started turning. Also talked to a Kubota dealer today and they said the PTO Clutch lever was only installed on a few models and it is designed to disengage the clutch from the PTO shaft without the operator moving the PTO engagement lever to disengage completely. It is not meant to hold for long periods of time, only short increments for whatever reason you might need the PTO disengaged. For example bushhogging over short rocky area you could pull the PTO clutch lever up and it stops turning as you pass over the rocks and let the lever back down to start cutting again. The diagram is the part I am referring to and the lever has label on it "PTO Clutch Lever". It could also be used in case of emergency to pull up quick to disengage PTO as it is closest lever to the seat. I haven't nor would I want to make a habit of using it at any higher RPM's than idle.

After further testing today I found the foot clutch pedal has no effect on the PTO turning until the PTO lever is disengaged. It does seem to turn a bit faster at idle than others I have used in the past. I believe this may be part of the issue with the bushhog.

The tractor was a trade in and I am getting a very good deal on it if everything is in working order. It's not coming from a Kubota dealer so he's not as familar with the specific operation without doing more research. If anything is not working then we'll have to discuss price more or them have it fixed. I feel comfortable they will take care of me as I am friend's with the sales guy and owner.


I'm new to posting on forums, guess I need to pay a little more attention since wording is taken very literal by some. By slack in the bushhog, I mean where the shear pins bolt the driveshaft to the cutter, the holes are somewhat worn and causes a little slack when spinning, nothing dangerous as shear pins are meant to do what they are called to prevent damage, shear off. By stopping with my hand, I meant as the clutch is disengaged from the shaft there is no pressure on it to turn, such any pressure on the outside of the shaft will cause it to stop before its momentum stops it naturally. I have operated several different older tractors over the years, but am not an expert or pro on them by any means, but I do know what safety aspects to follow.

Thanks again for the input and parts diagram.

There are numerous video clips on U-tube describing Kubota PTO operation.
Some even have a reverse rotation position on the PTO shaft lever and a special coupling extension is recommended on the PTO shaft, at the tractor which causes a ratcheting action to eliminate reverse rotation if you pull the lever the wrong way by mistake. It looks like it might require shortening of the implement shaft but could avoid destroying implement gear boxes.
All my tractors are blue and gray so I have no hands on experience with orange ones. Just interesting to see what gizmos have been used over time on tractors.
I am familiar with the slop/slack you describe on the mower shaft. It happens over time after a number of soft bolts have broken and you don't realize it till your next pass or look in the mirror. The U-joint end that is normally turning at the same speed of the mower gearbox shaft gets reamed out a bit. With a good shear bolt/pin in place it shouldn't make a grinding noise, " as you described" if you are engaging the PTO slowly.
Written questions must be taken literally to have any resolution.
Jokes are usually stated as such or have a smiley added.
Good luck with your purchase.:thumbsup:

 

[rbargeron]

..... PTO worked very well by just pressing in the clutch pedal with my foot..........After further testing today I found the foot clutch pedal has no effect on the PTO turning until the PTO lever is disengaged..........

Hi - my post above was not right. The M5030SU has a 2-stage dual clutch - the pto is "live" but not "indenpendent". One stage is controlled by the foot pedal. The other is controlled by the lever beside the seat. To drive the implement both clutches and the pto gearbox have to be engaged.

Check out this diagram too M5030SU Dual Clutch On the M5030SU the foot pedal disconnects everything behind the engine.

This particular dual clutch is separately adjustable in case either disk is slipping. A workshop manual might be a good purchase. If either clutch needs replacing it would be wise to get an estimate before agreeing to a sale price for the tractor. Hope this is useful. Take care, Dick B