Help with Electrical Problem

beauford chapman · Feb 2, 2012

Have had ck30 for 2.8 years. At about 2.4 years, I would get a click when the switch was turned to the start posistion but no ignition. Checked everything.Problem was intermittent but gradually became more frequent until it totally would not start. Just clicked. Changed ignition switch at about 2.6 years. After about 1 month, I began to get same clicking when switch was turned to start posistion. I would jiggle key and it would finally start. Now back to same clicking when turned to start posistion. Checked battery, grounding, relay connections. All other electrical features work fine. Can someone give me possible culprit?

Soundguy · Feb 2, 2012

use jumper wires to jump out switch and test. if jumping it out works.. you know you have a switch problem..

soundguy

Gittyup · Feb 2, 2012

Could be a weak relay. If you replace it, put a capacitor rated for 40 volts or so across the actuation terminals. This will help it last longer and actuate more reliably. Cap helps prevent carbon build up on contacts.

Soundguy · Feb 2, 2012

i don't know all the particulers.. but if replacing the ignition switch made the problem go away.. then i doubt it's a relay.... as that would not have been replaced.

more info would be helpfull though..

soundguy

MotorSeven · Feb 2, 2012

Have you actually cleaned the battery posts and the ground to frame? My CK30 and Dk40 both had the same symptom, both times it was dirty terminals.

mrutkaus · Feb 3, 2012

I go with above battery/frame connections check. They can look perfect but if not cleaned a thin layer around/inside the connectors/terminals can cause these problems. Take all off, clean with wire brush or steel wool, spray some battery termainal stuff or a little white grease on and put back together.

Mike

malk315 · Feb 3, 2012

If you have buildup of crud on the positive terminal I've found mixing warm water and baking soda will neutralize all of the acidic crud (you get a nice chemical reaction) and then you can safely clean everything w/o acidy stuff eating your hands, clothes, gloves whatever. Keep the solution from going into the battery vents -- usually dipping the whole terminal into a container away from the battery works great.

Also make sure the crud didn't find it's way back into the postive wire strands. Just pull back insulation if you can check. If so either a new wire is a good idea or cut back til clean copper and attach a new terminal you can get at Napa auto parts (assuming wire is long enough).

Just throwing out ideas that worked wonders on my 1970 wheel horse that needed this every few years. My kioti has had no issues like this at the battery posts -- it's been stored in less harsh conditions though too.

VictorW · Feb 3, 2012

A while back a member posted electrical problems and found the wire harness connectors under the right floorboard/footrest had become corroded. They caused him some problems similar to what a bad ignition switch does. Take them apart, clean if necessary, and coat with dilectric grease before reconnecting. Just a thought for another place to check.

malk315 · Feb 3, 2012

One of the "harness under panel below dash" corrosion issues was me. For me it was only the flashers that were intermittent due to corrosion in the plugs under that panel that allow the tractor to be split. It's tough to clean the "socket" side of those plugs but the "pin" side can be cleaned w/ emery board or sand paper but be careful as the pins are easy to break off. Perhaps spray some brake/electric motor cleaner in the socket side if you see corrosion -- it's easily obvious if arcing / corrosion has been going on versus a clean plug. I only had one that had a couple of pins with some blue/white gunk buildup.

I cleaned the best I could and di-electric greased the one that had corrosion but eventually replaced the harnesses involved beacuse after a while the flashers became intermittant again. After replacing the harnesses I've had zero problems. During the recent service I had done the dealer coated all of those connectors with dielectric grease as a preventative measure. Electrically my machine has been great.

One last thing -- mine being an '06 vintage I think those plugs under the panel should be oriented so water can't find it's way in (one side may have an opening). This is where the dielectric grease is nice insurance.

Good luck.

ritcheyvs · Feb 3, 2012

I recommend diagnosis using a cheap voltmeter (multimeter) with long leads and alligator clips at the ends. You can waste a lot of time and $$ throwing parts at these kind of things so I think it pays to locate the real problem. If the starter's not turning, check the voltage between the frame and the big terminal on the starter while the key is in the crank position. Assuming it's low (like near zero), back up to the next accessible check point until you locate the problem.

The click you hear may be the glow relay or it may be the started trying to engage. These ignition switches are often the problem but in your case replacing the switch previously may have actually fixed something else temporarily (like jiggling a poor connection). So it's probably worth the effort to find the real problem.

Supplemental: Harbor Freight usually has bargains on multimeters but you may need to make the long leads so you can connect and watch the meter from the seat. Alternatively, you can get a helper to turn the key while you watch the meter from the ground.

Scott

Coyote machine · Feb 3, 2012

beauford chapman,
First, welcome to TBN!
One poster asked for you to supply more info. I agree. Do you store your tractor inside or out? If out is it exposed to rain and/or snow on a regular basis?
Additional information like have mice ever been noticed under the hood or anywhere else on your rig? If so, they can wreak havoc with wiring and cause some crazy problems. I suspect like others do you may have loose or corroded connections or possibly another bad ig switch. The switch, at least on the DK series tractors has an available plastic cover to keep the elements out. Check with your dealer on this- it might be available for your CK-30 too.

Post back results and the additional info please.

Thanks,

CM

grsthegreat · Feb 3, 2012

Have you had the battery tested under a load??? NAPA and others will do this. Its amazing how an underpowered battery will mess up ones day with little issues in a vehicle.

murphy1244 · Feb 3, 2012

C.M. What is the part # of the cover.

Coyote machine · Feb 4, 2012

murphy1244 said:
C.M. What is the part # of the cover.

Murphy1224,
Sorry no clue- dealer installed at time of purchase, should be a part of dealer prep prior to sale, IMHO. I asked for it on both of my Kioti tractors- I'd seen it on another tractor on my dealer's lot, and asked why I didn't have one. They then installed it. Check with your dealer....

ritcheyvs · Feb 4, 2012

#12 maybe>

OEM Parts

Coyote machine · Feb 4, 2012

ritcheyvs said:
#12 maybe>

OEM Parts

That's the one for sure!
Good find.:thumbsup:

beauford chapman · Feb 5, 2012

I finally had time to work on tractor today. Thanks for all of the advice. I store my tractor under a shed (most of the time). I cleaned the battery terminals and the ground lead connector at the frame. No luck.
I put an amp meter on the switch that I removed from the tractor. I tested the resistence from the stab that the power lead connects to and put the switch in each of the posistions including the start posistion. Old ignition switch checked out with no problem. Why did I not do this before I changed switches?:ashamed:
Now, I have moved on to the relays. I put my finger on the relay from the switch to the started and had the key turned to the start posistion. It feels like it is making contact.
Scott, I like your suggestion on starting at the starter with the volt meter.
I will also have the battery tested.
This is a 2.8 year old tractor with about 150 hrs. Not abused at all.
Will post what I discover.

beauford chapman · Feb 5, 2012

A switch cover came with my ck30. Unfortunately, after about a year or so, the plastic became brittle and fell off. The replacement ignition switch does not come with a cover and the dealer said he did not have one in stock. Said he would have to order it. I found it at turfteam.com. Part # T4837-77772 (part #6 on the Kioti diagram), $3.02. I am going to order a couple to have as spares.

Rhinorider · Mar 25, 2012

I had a similar problem with my DK45HST. I found that it was the glow plug relay. (blue relay on the firewall). One side of this relay workrd the glow plugs fine, but the other feeds into the stating circuit. Apparently the contacts inside the relay were burnt. I stumbled on to this by accident. My tractor would just click and not engage the starter and it progressively got worse. I had my wife hold the key into the starter position while I took a screwdriver and tapped on all the relays with the handle. When I tapped on the relay starter kicked in and ZOOM Zoom. I replaced it and haven't had any trouble since.

halfbottle · Mar 28, 2012

I have the exact same problem. I replaced the ignition switch and that worked for a while, but problem has returned. See the Kubota B2400 low voltage relay solution, although I have not tried it something similar may help us out. In the meantime, keep jiggling that key!