How I added rear remote hydraulics to my tractor

[Piston]

Disclaimer: This won't be as good of a write up as Jim's, or Teg's or most of the other's that I've read on here, but I'll do my best.


Like many people here on TBN, my "need" for rear remote hydraulics started immediately when I finally learned what on earth they even were! I didn't know I needed them, until I knew they existed, I was just fine without them...or so I thought.
I learned that Top N Tilt was a fancy way of saying "hydraulic top link" and "hydraulic side link" respectively. Once I found out about that, it was all over :laughing:

Not only did I need Top N Tilt, I also suddenly felt the need for an extra remote back aft, not because I had the need for one, but because I thought that maybe, possibly, there was a good chance I MAY come across an implement that would use hydraulics. (I was right)

I have a 2002 Kubota L4610, which isn't a very popular model, but should be very similar to other L series, and since most tractor hydraulic systems are similar, the process of adding hydraulics to just about any of our tractors isn't all that different.


Here is how I added 4 rear remotes to the back of my tractor. I should have posted this long ago, as I completed the work a few months ago, but I hadn't gotten around to it until now. I'll try to remember as best I could. I literally, knew nothing about hydraulics. I didn't know there were different thread types, different cylinder types, different everything types. I learned everything I know now, right here on TBN, from all of you guys. I did start a thread asking a lot of questions which may be helpful for someone else starting out, and not knowing too much. That thread is here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/192676-adding-3rd-function-valve-top.html

It may take me a couple days to complete this little review of what I did, so bear with me...

Here are the best couple pics I have of the 'BEFORE' and 'AFTER'.
(As you can tell, I didn't paint the valve before I installed it, I honestly never even thought about it, as stupid as that sounds, so painting will come next)

 

[flusher]

Looks great:thumbsup:
I have triple rear remotes on my 2008 Mahindra 5525 ($700 dealer installed when I bought the tractor new). Love those flat top rear fenders--makes installing the valve cluster a cinch.

Good luck.

 

[nickel plate]

That's quite a cluster! Once you know the proper fluid direction for a given function, be sure to color code each hose and plug-in with colored zip ties if their is to be any multiple valve usage or future un-plugging exercises. It's a real pain to have to jump down off the tractor and switch the hose's fluid direction.

 

[Piston]

I didn't mention in my first post that I wanted to plumb in a 3rd function so I could operate a grapple on the FEL. Originally when I asked about how to do all this, I had it all included in one big project, the 3rd function valve, the 4 spool valve, and the PB port. I ended up buying the W.R. LONG 3rd function valve kit, then installing it, and doing my 4 spool valve later, quite a while later. So looking back, I should have done it all at once, and just bought my own solenoid, hoses, connectors and so on. However, I don't at all regret buying the WR LONG kit, mostly because at the time, I didn't know much about how hydraulics worked, and that kit was ridiculously easy to install. So easy that I never even stepped back to take pictures.

Here is the kit I bought, the electric over hydraulic. Valve Kits
I believe it was about $700 after adding the QD fittings and bulkhead mount.

The basic flow diagram that came in the kit is attached as a PDF.

It was a lot easier to install with the FEL disconnected and out of the way.

The pics are the only (not very good) pics I took while installing the kit, pretty simple really....
I took the solenoid supplied with the kit, and mounting bracket, and bolted it in place via the same bolt hole location used for the FEL valve. I believe the kit supplied longer bolts for this reason but don't remember exactly.

Now that the solenoid itself is attached, I needed to attach the hoses. I simply replaced the PB hose from the FEL with the new supplied hose, and attached that hose from the PB of the FEL (that I just took off) and attached the other end to the P port of the WR Long solenoid. Then I took the other supplied hose and attached it from the T port of the solenoid, back to where I just took the original hose out of, which continues now to the 3pt hitch.

So in a more simplified way, (assuming I could use zip ties for the connections:laughing all I did was cut the PB hose coming from the FEL to the 3pt hitch in half, and insterted the new solenoid. (of course, you can't do that) but it may help explain it better??

After that I had two hoses left. The supply and return for the grapple, which ran down the FEL arm alongside the already existing lines used for curl and raise/lower. I then welded on the bulkhead bracket and attached the hoses.

It's really a lot easier than I make it sound. :laughing:

 

[Piston]

Now that the Solenoid valve was installed, and actually working (I forgot to mention wiring in the toggle switch, which was very simple) I needed to go play a little bit. Here are some of the first uses I had with the grapple.

 

[Piston]

After some time went by, and a whole lot more reading and questioning on TBN, I decided it was time to take the plunge and order the valve.

As mentioned, I wanted at least 3 spools, and for not much more money I could add a 4th. I thought I was getting carried away with too many rear remotes, but actually, I have just enough. 2 of those remotes, will always be tied up with Top N Tilt, so I only have 2 extra to use for implements.
Right now I have one need for the 3rd, which is for my hydraulic scarifiers on my box blade, however when I eventually add a gauge wheel to my box blade, I can make it hydraulic, and control all 4 functions from the comfort of my seat.

Here are the series of pictures I took when I put the valve together, this is how I assembled my stack valve.

(Note: In the fist picture, you can see how I had the pressure relief adjustment in the same orientation as the silver detent caps. I put the valve together with that end portion (pressure relief end) the wrong way the first time, then got it right before I bolted it all together)

(Another Note: Don't open all the pics if you have a slow connection, they're basically all the same but just showing how I assembled the valve)

 

[Piston]

Just FYI. I started explaining my valve install in my other thread towards the end, but I decided to start a new one just to record how I did the install. The other thread started getting pretty confusing towards the end, so if you notice some of the same pics/wording in a few posts, that is why


I decided I will mount the valve on the right rear fender, this wasn't all that difficult of a decision considering that the right rear fender is about the only possible place it will fit without much modification!

The only thing that made it a little 'cramped' was the rear flasher, I disconnected it and moved it in a little closer to the ROPS where there was already a hole drilled for it, this hole was slightly further back than the one it was in before, and gave me just enough room to fit the valve :thumbsup:

 

[Piston]

I went with KennyD's suggestion of mounting the valve in the location it will go, prior to ordering any hoses. I mounted the valve on the right rear fender by simply drilling a couple holes and inserting bolts through the underside of the fender, into the valve. (I threw a few drops of Loctite on there for good measure)

I measured for my main 3 hoses first, the IN of the new valve, the OUT of the new valve, and the PB of the new valve. (My valve came with the PB sleeve already in, be careful when ordering your valve for PB, you may have to put the sleeve in yourself.)

Instead of a tape measure, I used an air hose to route where my lines would go, zip tied it in the exact place, and measured the length of that hose.

HOSE #1:
I measured out the lengths for the hose going from the power beyond of my 3rd function valve of my FEL to the "IN" of the new valve.
(If I didn't have the 3rd function valve, I would measure from the PB of my FEL valve)

This hose will be coming from the right hose in the first and second pic (which is the backside of my WR LONG solenoid valve) to the "IN" port in the third pic.

You can see how I used the air hose to help in measuring, this worked really well (although I still managed to order the wrong length hose but that was my own stupid mistake) Also, you can see where my fingers are on the ROPS is where I wanted to mount the PB QD's. (I was going to have separate QD for a dedicated PB port, but instead I skipped this step, and used one of the valves held in open position when using my splitter-more on this later)




The new valve "IN" port is an SAE 8 port, It took me a long time and a lot of TBN searching to wrap my head around the different types of fittings, and threads. There was already a JIC fitting on the Solenoid valve that the other end of this hose was connected to, and I decided to go with all JIC fittings, and just use adapters when needed. I ordered the hoses from Surplus Center (I found the already-made-to-length hoses with JIC female fittings from them, were cheaper than getting custom hoses from DHH-and since I would need so many hoses, this saved me a good chunk of money)

I attached one end of the hose (without any paste on the threads since it's JIC fittings) to the solenoid valve, then on the other end attached my adapter (90* SAE 8 to JIC) and then attached that to the IN of the new valve.
In the last picture, the IN port (and adapter) is all the way to the right of the pic.

Hose #1 Done.

 

[Piston]

A quick note, these fittings are obviously very well packed in there, and with all the hoses going every which way coming out of the valve, it is hard to tighten them down using a normal wrench, actually, I think it would have been impossible. I had NO room to spare with all of this stuff packed so tightly together. I followed a recommendation from Paulwestski to buy some angled combo wrenches to fit in the tight areas, these were also narrower than standard wrenches. I don't think I would have been able to tighten all my fittings without dissassembling the valve again, had I not had these wrenches.
V-8 Tools Wre Set Combo 16Pc Angle 8M To 23M | Wayfair

Thanks Paul! :thumbsup:

 

[PILOON]

Interesting, and good write up.
Gives me ideas.

 

[jinman]

Nice job Piston! Do you think the "true" 3rd function kit is truly any better than a diverter valve for the curl circuit of your FEL? After using my grapple for several years, I cannot think of a time I needed to curl my grapple at the same time as actively gripping something. It's always one or the other.

I really like your four remotes. It's far better to have too many than ever have too few.

 

[Piston]

Flusher,
I like that clean install on your Mahindra, that's a nice setup you have. I wish mine 'looked' a little neater and more factory! Not to mention I have more than $700 into this just doing it myself. :laughing:


Jinman,
I can't say whether or not it is better or worse, or just more expensive, to go with the 3rd function over a diverter. I've never used a diverter before so I don't know from first hand experience.

Alright, on to the next step..... I know this write up is taking forever... :laughing:

 

[kennyd]

Alright, on to the next step..... I know this write up is taking forever... :laughing:

Good things take time! Great post and pictures Piston:thumbsup:

 

[Piston]

Hose #2 - New valve PB port to 3pt

This hose is going to continue the PB circuit, and plug directly into the 3pt hitch supply port. If you back up a bit, to before I changed any hyd hoses whatsoever, my system went like this....

FEL PB > 3rd function solenoid IN > 3rd function solenoid PB > 3pt.

Now that I have my valve inline, it will go....

FEL PB > 3rd function solenoid IN > 3rd function solenoid PB > new valve IN > new valve PB > 3pt.

So all I'm doing is placing this 4 spool valve inline that same circuit. The only difference is, I'll have an extra hose to deal with (the OUT which I'll get to next) well, not including the other 8 hoses that go to the remotes :laughing:

Back to business....
The PB port of the new valve was a SAE #10 port(1st pic), (from what I understand, the sizing goes in terms of 16ths. So SAE #10 is like saying 10/16ths, which for us math wizards out there, equals 5/8ths. Thanks Mrs. Danforth, I owe you)
I used a Tee fitting/adapter to go from the SAE #10 to 1/2" JIC male, to screw my 1/2" hose (with 1/2" JIC female fitting) into my PB port of the valve (wow that sounds confusing) and ran that hose back into the 3pt hitch, which is at the block under my operators station.

The 1st pic shows the PB port of the new valve. Picture my 90* SAE #10 > 1/2" JIC adapter here. SAE 37ｰ Flare (JIC) x O-Ring Boss (ORB) 90ｰ Elbow

The 2nd pic shows the hyd block before I plugged in the PB hose from the new valve.

The 3rd pic shows where I plugged in the new hose, from the PB port of the new valve. As you can see, I need to add some protection there, it's only a matter of time before this hose gets ripped off with all the forest work I do.

Hose #2 down!

 

[J_J]

Great pictures and write up. Thanks.

 

[Piston]

HOSE #3 - OUT port of new valve to tank.

This one didn't exactly go as planned....

The OUT port of the new valve is SAE #8 (1/2"), actually all valve ports are, the only one that isn't, is the PB port as I mentioned, which is SAE #10.

The idea was to go from my OUT port of the new valve (the top, closest port in pic 1) and TEE into my return to tank line from the FEL, which is hard to see in pic 2, but it's the upper right port (I'm not 100% positive I remember this port correctly)

For this, I would obviously need a tee, which I ordered SAE 37ｰ (JIC) Swivel Nut Run Tee (all 1/2")
The only problem was, the one I ordered, had a male/female in the wrong spot, whatever I ordered, I needed the opposite. So I compromised a bit. I had ordered some extra hoses, and I happened to have an extra LONG hose, which would just about reach to my FEL valve, coming up through the bottom of the tractor. So what I did was, disconnect the return line coming directly out of my FEL valve, and use my TEE connection there, since the male/female all lined up correctly, and I TEEd in right there. (Pic 3 and 4)

Now remember I said it would "just about reach" IT DIDN'T completely reach. Since I needed to use the box blade up on my land in NH the following day, I didn't have time to order a new one, and there aren't many stores near me that supply fittings like this. So instead, I routed it down the side of my seat and along the operator station and up to the FEL valve. This is temporary and I am finally getting around to ordering the right Tee now that I'm doing this little review (and remembering I need the new tee!)

Teeing in to where I did, would be fine if my hose was a bit longer and would route without issues. Since it isn't long enough, it is cheaper for me to buy the $3.68 Tee than it is to order a new hose, not to mention easier, so that is what I will do. If memory serves me correctly, the only adapter I needed for this hose, was the SAE to JIC coming out of the valve. The others were all JIC already.

That pretty much does it for Hose #3, and finishes up the install of the valve itself....FINALLY :laughing:

Tomorrow I will post how I installed the remotes themselves, and the hoses. From here on out though, it's just making up a bracket to mount the QD's to, and decoding all the different thread types, then connect the 8 short hoses.

I hope this all makes sense, I have a gift of making even the most simplistic jobs sound extremely confusing...

 

[J_J]

Piston,

I see you have a 3pt log splitter. How would you connect the hoses?

Might I suggest if the log splitter valve does not have PB, to connect the return /out port to the OUT/return tee at the remote valve.

Seems like that everything you have done is working out good for you.

 

[Piston]

Piston,

I see you have a 3pt log splitter. How would you connect the hoses?

Might I suggest if the log splitter valve does not have PB, to connect the return /out port to the OUT/return tee at the remote valve.

Seems like that everything you have done is working out good for you.

J. J.,
I'm not sure if the log splitter valve has PB or not? I don't think it does but not sure. What I'm doing now, is plugging the Log Splitter into one set of remotes and holding the valve open with a bungee cord. This wasn't my original plan but it's the way it worked out. I don't like it like this though as doesn't seem to me like it's the 'right way' to do it, and I like things to be right.

I'm going to change this in the future, but probably not until next fall. However, I'm on the fence about keeping my 3pt hitch splitter, I may end up selling it and buying a dedicated self contained model. So if I do that, I won't change anything....

 

[Piston]

Next step.... Make a bracket and mount the rear remotes.

I had some aluminum angle iron (well, I guess it's not called angle iron if it's aluminum?? I don't know what its called, aluminum angle aluminum? :laughing

I had two scrap pieces of this mystery name angle stuff laying around so I thought I would use that.

I laid it out so I would have 4 QD ports in each piece of...... I'm just gonna call it a 'bracket'...

This would give me 2 full sets of rear remotes per bracket, and one mounted on each side of my ROPS, for a grand total of 4 rear remotes. One side I will use for Top and Tilt, the other side will be used for any extra hydraulics I'll need back aft.

The first pic shows the bracket I'm using, with scribed pencil lines where the QD's will be mounted.

Second pic is the holes drilled and ready to insert the first adapter/fitting.
(I'd really like a nice drill press some day!)

Third pic shows the first set of fittings I used. Since my QD fittings have female NPT thread (NPTF) and my hoses and many other fittings are all JIC, I used JIC to NPTF bulkhead fittings. Male Pipe (NPTF) x SAE 37ｰ Flare (JIC) Bulkhead (1/2" on both ends)

Fourth Pic, is with the QD fittings installed. I used this paste for the NPT connections Hydraulic Hose Fittings | Teflonｮ (PTFE) Thread Sealing Compound

5th pic shows the bracket, the bulkhead fittings, the QD fittings, and finally the 90* JIC to JIC elbow, which my hoses will connect directly to. SAE 37ｰ (JIC) Swivel Nut 90ｰ Elbow (again, 1/2" on both ends)

 

[Piston]

Next, I mounted the two brackets, and connected the hoses.

Now, you would think by looking at the pictures, that I drilled a hole through the ROPS, and insterted two bolts per bracket to secure them, using washers and nylock nuts. However, since (as everyone on TBN knows) you should never drill a hole through your ROPS, I of course didn't do that....

What I actually did was....I used two sided sticky tape to secure the brackets to the ROPS, and then, I glued 2 bolt heads and 2 nuts per bracket, to the bracket and ROPS, to make it LOOK like I drilled through the ROPS to install the brackets.

SO, there is no need to warn me about the dangers of drilling a 3/8" hole through my ROPS, since that isn't actually what I did.
It just appears that way :thumbsup: