DC help

[deereman75]

Well I just tried out my new longevity stickweld 250, and I love it. It welds very smooth, and is so quiet. I am totally lost on the settings though. It seems the amperage needs to be differnt for DC, and I have no idea what settings I should use. Then I have the arc force and surge control. I think the surge control is hot start. I have no idea how to set either of those. Any benchmark settings would be great. And also maybe give me some idea of how to set the arc force and hot start.

 

[Shield Arc]

When tacking open root joints, I turn the hot start down real low, or it will blow holes in the joint. For all other welding I'll stay around the + 7.0 to + 8.5.
The arc force I turn all the way up for open root joint welding, with 6010 or 7018. Generally when running 6010 I like -2.0 this gives me the stack of dimes look with out even trying. For 7018 most of the time I run the arc force on 0.0

Far as heat, DC with be a little colder than AC.

 

[deereman75]

When tacking open root joints, I turn the hot start down real low, or it will blow holes in the joint. For all other welding I'll stay around the + 7.0 to + 8.5.
The arc force I turn all the way up for open root joint welding, with 6010 or 7018. Generally when running 6010 I like -2.0 this gives me the stack of dimes look with out even trying. For 7018 most of the time I run the arc force on 0.0

Far as heat, DC with be a little colder than AC.

Ok thanks, that helps a lot. I think the arc force adjustment of it is only from 0-10. If the weather clears up, I will play around with it some more. I hate welding in the rain.

 

[Shield Arc]

Oh you're missing out on all the fun! Put your rain gear on, go outside sit on a cold beam and start welding. Make sure you're bent over at the waist, head down, and let the water run down the back of your neck. Make sure your belt is fairly tight or you'll get your underwear wet. This makes it very interesting to see, because when the rain is running down your back, it is also running down your face dripping into your lenses, in just a few minutes you'll have 4 or 5 arcs to look at!:laughing:

 

[deereman75]

Oh you're missing out on all the fun! Put your rain gear on, go outside sit on a cold beam and start welding. Make sure you're bent over at the waist, head down, and let the water run down the back of your neck. Make sure your belt is fairly tight or you'll get your underwear wet. This makes it very interesting to see, because when the rain is running down your back, it is also running down your face dripping into your lenses, in just a few minutes you'll have 4 or 5 arcs to look at!:laughing:

I think Ill pass. :laughing::thumbsup:

 

[Shield Arc]

Oh it will happen to you. It's just a matter of time. You gonna expect them to drag that broken down bull dozer into the nice warm shop so you can weld on it? Ain't gonna happen buddy, you'll be out in the field laying in a mud puddle in just a few short years!

 

[deereman75]

Oh it will happen to you. It's just a matter of time. You gonna expect them to drag that broken down bull dozer into the nice warm shop so you can weld on it? Ain't gonna happen buddy, you'll be out in the field laying in a mud puddle in just a few short years!

Ha Ha yea. I just want to avoid working in the rain as much as possible for now.

 

[jpm1]

Right on the button Shield Arc! You haven't experienced life until you have layed on your back in the mud and pouring rain and welded a piece of broken "junk" for some one, and when you've finished it stops raining and they short you on money. . . .John

 

[Shield Arc]

You don't think I drag the leads out in the pasture while its pouring down rain to reminisce do you?

 

[easygo]

I have no doubt that many people have welded in the rain. But this raises the question of how safe is it?

What is the safe way to weld in the rain or otherwise damp conditions?

 

[dstig1]

Miller - Stick Welding Calculator

Doesn't hit your questions on the additional settings, but is very handy and helpful for a quick look at amp settings. They also have a mobile app/website of it for all processes.

 

[rankrank1]

Typically, I think of it this way to help me:
AC = 50% heat into rod and 50% heat into workpiece.
DC electrode positive = 67% heat into rod and 33% heat into workpiece. (DCEP is most common polarity used and results in max penetration).
DC electrode negative = 33% heat into rod and 67% into workpiece. (rarely used, but helpful on thin sheet metal if no wire feeder and results in min penetration).

So what does it mean? In short for whatever setting that you were using on your old AC buzzbox take that setting and multiply times 0.83 for a rough starting point setting and adjust from there accordingly as needed. ( e.g. 100 amp setting on AC buzzbox would roughly equal 83 amps on DCEP).

 

[deereman75]

Ok thanks. The miller calculator helps, it is still quite rough though. Rankrank1s comparison of ac to dc helped me get my head around it a bit.

 

[yomax4]

Stick Welders are soooo..:confused2:. :thumbsup: lol..

 

[Shield Arc]

What is the safe way to weld in the rain or otherwise damp conditions?

To be safe, all you need is rubber gloves, and rubber boots. Rubber gloves are almost a must. A lot of guys would wear the thin rubber cannery / medical gloves inside their leather welding gloves.
Rain gear is for your comfort, but if you are working hard you'll sweat like a pig in rain gear, and be wet anyway. Even the cheapest rain gear gets expensive when burning it up welding. A lot of guys will wear their rain gear under their Carhartt coveralls / overalls. Around here far as I know if you're a certified weldor, you supply the first set of rain gear, and the union requires the contractor to replace any burned up rain gear. It always seemed to be a big problem, guys would buy very expensive Helly Hanson rain gear, burn it up, but the contractor would replace it with cheap Kmart crap!

 

[rhett]

I have no doubt that many people have welded in the rain. But this raises the question of how safe is it?

What is the safe way to weld in the rain or otherwise damp conditions?

work as a team with a helper/tender as Safety and Knife Switch Operator
only switch the power to stinger when positioned to weld, switch OFF when done with rod, changing electrode, getting back into position, etc...

never allow the currents path to cross your heart
been stung countless times with DC, still alive but an experience that will always be remembered

EDIT: if you have the metal fillings in your teeth, they will be tasted and if done allot plan on dentist visits to repair/ replace them

 

[Danno1]

Typically, I think of it this way to help me:
AC = 50% heat into rod and 50% heat into workpiece.
DC electrode positive = 67% heat into rod and 33% heat into workpiece. (DCEP is most common polarity used and results in max penetration).
DC electrode negative = 33% heat into rod and 67% into workpiece. (rarely used, but helpful on thin sheet metal if no wire feeder and results in min penetration).

So what does it mean? In short for whatever setting that you were using on your old AC buzzbox take that setting and multiply times 0.83 for a rough starting point setting and adjust from there accordingly as needed. ( e.g. 100 amp setting on AC buzzbox would roughly equal 83 amps on DCEP).

I think you got something backwards in here.

If DCEP has the most pen, shouldn't the heat be 67% into the work? And vice versa for DCEN?


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[rankrank1]

I think you got something backwards in here.

If DCEP has the most pen, shouldn't the heat be 67% into the work? And vice versa for DCEN?.

Nope not backwards, but you are welcome to prove me wrong as I am far from an expert and have never claimed to be anything other than a hack welder.

Really it is simply a matter of perspective:

First In the mechanical world:
a) a 67 pound hammer hitting a center punch will leave the biggest divot in metal.
b) a 50 pound hammer swung at same speed will leave a medium sized center punch divot in the metal
c) a 33 pound hammer swung at same speed will leave the the smallest center punch divot in metal.

Now in the electrical world.
a) DCEP will put 67% of the heat, oomph, power( whatever you want to call it) into the stinger and it will leave the biggest divot in the metal.
b) AC will put 50% of the heat, oomph, power (again whatever you want to call it) into the stinger and it will leave the medium sized divot in the metal.
c) DCEN will put 33% of the heat, ooph, power (again whatever you want to call it) into the stinger and it will leave the smallest divot in the metal.
(NOTE: In the electrical world there are not any signifigant mechanical losses like friction found in the physical world so the leftover heat is transferred to the workpiece as them amps do not just magically disappear - they have to go someplace).

 

[rhett]

darn, I have way to much free time

The Welding Handbook for Maritime Welders :thumbsup:

 

[Danno1]

Nope not backwards, but you are welcome to prove me wrong as I am far from an expert and have never claimed to be anything other than a hack welder.

No, not trying to prove you wrong at all. Just trying to understand.

I'm a hack welder too!!!


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