3520

rtm038

Silver Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2004
Messages
142
Location
New Jersey
Hello everyone,
I'm thinking about stepping uo to a 3520 TLB. I went onto the JD website and built the machine listed below and the cost was right around $40,000. What would a fair price be for a machine like this?

3520 open station cab
eHydro or Auto HST (with Loadmatch and automotive style cruise control)
300CX loader
485 Backhoe with a 12" bucket
Mid PTO
(2) work lights with mounting brackets
Standard hood guard
Electrohydraulic diverter valve kit (to operate a future front grapple bucket)
Standard 3-point hitch arms
Standard seat
 
I have a 447 BH with 16", I think you would be happier with a bigger bucket on the 485 :thumbsup:. (447 = to new 385), wished I had a 9" also, have dug lots of 16"x5' deep for water, 9" would have been better (if it was a curved bigger / longer 9" :licking: type bucket).
 
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  • Thread Starter
#3  
I have a 447 BH with 16", I think you would be happier with a bigger bucket on the 485 :thumbsup:. (447 = to new 385), wished I had a 9" also, have dug lots of 16"x5' deep for water, 9" would have been better (if it was a curved bigger / longer 9" :licking: type bucket).

OK, thats something to think about. Thanks for the input.:thumbsup:
 
Agree with the larger bucket for 485.

I now have a 18" on Wallenstein BH. Having said that the 13" bucket I had on 447 was a good compromise for trenching, turning over established flower beds and other things requiring a bit of finesse. The 13" seemed large enough the dirt would actually fall out, but small enough to get around things..
 
Hello everyone,
I'm thinking about stepping uo to a 3520 TLB. I went onto the JD website and built the machine listed below and the cost was right around $40,000. What would a fair price be for a machine like this?

3520 open station cab
eHydro or Auto HST (with Loadmatch and automotive style cruise control)
300CX loader
485 Backhoe with a 12" bucket
Mid PTO
(2) work lights with mounting brackets
Standard hood guard
Electrohydraulic diverter valve kit (to operate a future front grapple bucket)
Standard 3-point hitch arms
Standard seat


The routine "shopping" exercise of "Build Your Own" gives you a suggested price. It's a starting point. Next step is to shop your configuration to dealer's that are close enough to provide service and parts.

Figure anywhere from 15% to 20% off the suggested MSRP.

Agree with the prior comments about the hoe bucket. I had an 18" bucket on my JD8A backhoe (8.5' digging depth) and really liked it. The trench was wide enough to walk in and work. Laying water lines and electric cable was a piece of cake!

Do you have a mid mount mower? Why the mid-pto?

Don't forget the 3rd function hydraulic lines for the 300CX loader. Also highly recommend the extendable draft links. They're not all that expensive and you'll be amazed how much easier it will make attaching 3pt implements!

Best of luck with your new tractor.

AKfish
 
/ 3520
  • Thread Starter
#6  
The routine "shopping" exercise of "Build Your Own" gives you a suggested price. It's a starting point. Next step is to shop your configuration to dealer's that are close enough to provide service and parts.

Figure anywhere from 15% to 20% off the suggested MSRP.

Agree with the prior comments about the hoe bucket. I had an 18" bucket on my JD8A backhoe (8.5' digging depth) and really liked it. The trench was wide enough to walk in and work. Laying water lines and electric cable was a piece of cake!

Do you have a mid mount mower? Why the mid-pto?

Don't forget the 3rd function hydraulic lines for the 300CX loader. Also highly recommend the extendable draft links. They're not all that expensive and you'll be amazed how much easier it will make attaching 3pt implements!

Best of luck with your new tractor.

AKfish

Currently I use my 2520 for loader/backhoe/snow removal work only and plan on using the 3520 in the same manner. I was gonna get the mid PTO in case I wanted to add a front snowblower later and figured it would be good for resale.

Doesn't the electrohydraulic diverter valve kit provide for a 3rd function on the 300CX?
 
Currently I use my 2520 for loader/backhoe/snow removal work only and plan on using the 3520 in the same manner. I was gonna get the mid PTO in case I wanted to add a front snowblower later and figured it would be good for resale.

Doesn't the electrohydraulic diverter valve kit provide for a 3rd function on the 300CX?

Not necessarily... There are 2 elements to that configuration - 1.) 3rd hyd function at the Mid mount SCV's and joystick control 2.) Hard lines and wire hose on loader boom with quick couplers at bucket.

Just make sure that you have the controls (joystick) and couplers (mid-mount) as well as the loader hard lines and quick disconnects.

AKfish
 
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  • Thread Starter
#8  
Well, I got the quote back from the dealer. The prices below includes all discounts and labor costs:

3530 with eHydro:.........................................$ 24,689.25
300 CX with complete 3rd function kit added:.....$ 4,474.92
485 BH with PB kit..........................................$ 9,584.71

Total cost.....................................................$38,748.88
Tax..............................................................$ 2,593.21
Grand Total....................................................$41,342.09
 
Well, I got the quote back from the dealer. The prices below includes all discounts and labor costs:

3530 with eHydro:.........................................$ 24,689.25
300 CX with complete 3rd function kit added:.....$ 4,474.92
485 BH with PB kit..........................................$ 9,584.71

Total cost.....................................................$38,748.88
Tax..............................................................$ 2,593.21
Grand Total....................................................$41,342.09

OK... I don't know how well this quote measure's up to the suggested MSRP from JD's "Build Your Own".

And, of course; you'll need to see how far another dealer (or several) is willing to go with pricing.

First blush, though... the loader quote is on the high side and the backhoe quote is getting into the JD 110 backhoe price range!

There's some definite "wiggle room"!!

AKfish
 
That seems like a high quote to me. As AKfish mentioned you can nearly get a 110 for that price.

It looks as though your going down the right road as for what type of tractor to get but I would say they are about $4k to high - maybe more. I would definitely get some other prices from local dealers unless this guy wants to start negotiating, he's just giving you list price, no discount.

I know this is going to be even more of an expense but have you considered a cab? Add cost now but resale down the road and it sure will make it nice to plow snow, be just like in a car. I do wish I'd gotten a cab and many here will tell you that a cab is do or die.
 
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  • Thread Starter
#11  
First blush, though... the loader quote is on the high side and the backhoe quote is getting into the JD 110 backhoe price range!


AKfish

I know, thats what I was thinking. I could get a used 110tlb in good condition for less than this machine. The only problem is that I don't need a 110 or else it would be a no-brainer.

Ryan
 
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  • Thread Starter
#12  
That seems like a high quote to me. As AKfish mentioned you can nearly get a 110 for that price.

It looks as though your going down the right road as for what type of tractor to get but I would say they are about $4k to high - maybe more. I would definitely get some other prices from local dealers unless this guy wants to start negotiating, he's just giving you list price, no discount.

I know this is going to be even more of an expense but have you considered a cab? Add cost now but resale down the road and it sure will make it nice to plow snow, be just like in a car. I do wish I'd gotten a cab and many here will tell you that a cab is do or die.

I just don't get my dealer's pricing. I've seen online ads for brand new (MY2011 and MY2012) open station 3520s with loaders and mid mowers in the mid 20s/low 30s and cab models with loaders and mowers in the mid 30s.

A cab would be sweet, but it only takes me about 20 minutes to plow off the driveway, so its really not worth it. Plus, it would never fit in my garage.:(
 
I just don't get my dealer's pricing. I've seen online ads for brand new (MY2011 and MY2012) open station 3520s with loaders and mid mowers in the mid 20s/low 30s and cab models with loaders and mowers in the mid 30s.

A cab would be sweet, but it only takes me about 20 minutes to plow off the driveway, so its really not worth it. Plus, it would never fit in my garage.:(

I would not get a cab if I couldn't fit it in my garage as well. Like to keep my stuff nice.

I would get another quote, even if its a distance from you and go back to that dealer and say this is what this guy will give me, if you want my business beat it - he has a lot of wiggle room.
 
Best advice is to shop around at different dealers and save yourself some dough --- at least 15% or more off mfg list.

Also, I'd go with the cab and figure a way to enlarge the garage door opening. I had the contractor who built my house and detached garage enlarge the door opening so I could store the tractor until I built a pole barn with large doors to store all my equipment. In my case, enlarging the garage door opening did not cost all that much. Besides being warm/dry in winter and cool in summer, the cab is great for allergies and repelling pesty bees. You'll never regret getting a cab and will agonize over your decision if you don't get one.
 
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#15  
My dealer is out of his mind. He just sent me what I would consider to be a low-ball offer on my 2008 2520. It has 202 hours, the 300CX loader, 46BH, work lights and a 5.5' wide snowblade. Sure it's got a scratch or two here and there, but it should. Afterall, it's 3 years old and has been used for what it was built for. So I'm to pay the top end for the new one and get the low-end on my trade- yeah right. If other dealers come back with similar numbers, I'll probably start looking at low-hour used machines (2009 and 2010 model).
 
My dealer is out of his mind. He just sent me what I would consider to be a low-ball offer on my 2008 2520. It has 202 hours, the 300CX loader, 46BH, work lights and a 5.5' wide snowblade. Sure it's got a scratch or two here and there, but it should. Afterall, it's 3 years old and has been used for what it was built for. So I'm to pay the top end for the new one and get the low-end on my trade- yeah right. If other dealers come back with similar numbers, I'll probably start looking at low-hour used machines (2009 and 2010 model).
Some dealers start out that way to maximize their profit knowing they can come down to make a sale if need be. I would make a counter offer if I were you with what you feel is a decent deal for you and go from there. Some folks don't like to bargain this way but I would rather keep as much money in my pocket as possible.

Your experience with this dealer reminds me of where I started out when looking to buy my new 3720. After negotiations, I got what I feel was a really terrific deal. Don't throw in the towel just yet.
 
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  • Thread Starter
#17  
Some dealers start out that way to maximize their profit knowing they can come down to make a sale if need be. I would make a counter offer if I were you with what you feel is a decent deal for you and go from there. Some folks don't like to bargain this way but I would rather keep as much money in my pocket as possible.

Your experience with this dealer reminds me of where I started out when looking to buy my new 3720. After negotiations, I got what I feel was a really terrific deal. Don't throw in the towel just yet.

Oh yeah, I plan to email him a counter offer and see what he does.
 
RTM,

I just went through this and your dealers price is high compared to what I was quoted.

I just bought a used 3520 with 300CX and a 448 BH. Part of my decision process was asking how much for the same machine new (0% financing:thumbsup:). He quoted me "$32K and change".

I'd call around and see what others will offer. Depending on where you're located, try to find a high volume dealer. From what I've been told they get better pricing from JD to begin with so can sell lower.

Good luck, A 3520 TLB is a very compact but capable package!
 
I would like to know how in the world you guys know how much "wiggle" room a dealer has when you know nothing about the dealer. You don't know what their overhead is, so how can you honestly say what you say? When the 15%-20% off list was suggested,:laughing: they have NEVER shopped at our local JD dealer, and that dealer happens to have 6 of the (closer) dealers. My guess would be that you would have to be north of 100k before you would ever see any discounts like that around here. :confused2: I'm not saying that better prices are not obtainable, but they may not be from the local dealer. ;)
 
I would like to know how in the world you guys know how much "wiggle" room a dealer has when you know nothing about the dealer. You don't know what their overhead is, so how can you honestly say what you say? When the 15%-20% off list was suggested,:laughing: they have NEVER shopped at our local JD dealer, and that dealer happens to have 6 of the (closer) dealers. My guess would be that you would have to be north of 100k before you would ever see any discounts like that around here. :confused2: I'm not saying that better prices are not obtainable, but they may not be from the local dealer. ;)


I'm amazed at the 15-20% that's quoted here on TBN. Here in NY, at least my area, 10% off is much more in line. Getting a 10% discount was like pulling teeth.
 

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