Show us your shop building

/ Show us your shop building #61  
Just finished the exterior this week (last of the batons) & built/installed the dutch door on Friday. Did most of the work myself - had help with the framing & putting the OSB on the roof.
Still have to haul some sandstone to do the "lane" to/from the Barn & our main driveway, remove some trees, etc.
 

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/ Show us your shop building #62  
The plastic tiles are from an online outfit called "BigFloors.com"
GarageDeck Garage Flooring - BigFloors

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I received a private message with some questions about the post I made above, and I thought that it would benefit everyone if I answered it here instead.

Each tile is 12" x 12" -- one square foot. The tiles themselves are approximately 1/2" thick. The bottom of the tile is a cross-mesh support grid.

Unless your shop floor is dimensioned exactly on one foot boundaries, you will need to cut the end row of tiles. Cutting can be done with almost anything -- I used a power miter saw but you could use a jigsaw with a guide, or even a hand saw. One note: unlike real wood, the plastic "sawdust" is of course not biodegradable -- so I connected my shop-vac to the miter saw to collect the trimmings. Otherwise you will be left with a tile-colored reminder, forever, of where you cut the tiles.

Each tile has a pair of male edges, and a pair of female edges. I hope I don't have to explain to all of you how all of this works. :) All tiles are set in the same direction. It will probably be easiest to start with the female sides against a corner, and then work outward. You can see my example pictures above. This means you will eventually be cutting off the male edge(s) at the far side of the room. Remember, measure twice, cut once - and double check the "***" of the side you are cutting. I would try to put the full tiles where they are most visible, and put the cut tiles where they are least visible, say under a workbench or similar.

Attaching adjoining tiles is as simple as placing them into position, and then giving the seam a whack with a rubber mallet. If needed, you can disassemble tiles as well using a screwdriver to unlatch the male/female bits.

Regarding the edging shown in my photos -- they require a virgin tile; in other words, they attach to the adjoining "parent" tile using the same male post/female hole scheme. So if you are going to attach edging anywhere you have to make sure your layout approach leaves a virgin (non-cut) edge for the edging to attach to. The company that I bought my tiles from sells the edging in both sexes, so you can finish a male edge or a female tile edge.

One final note... all plastic floor tiles expand and contract with changes in temperature. So, leave sufficient expansion gap (approx. 1/2") along all walls, otherwise you may end up with a "bulge" in the middle of the shop on a hot day.

Wrooster
 
/ Show us your shop building #63  
prob except electric;)

all except for electric. I'm a lazy typist. And brokenknee...that picture looks PAINFUL. hope all is well now with the knee

Duh, I should have been able to figure that one out. :ashamed: Looks like a real nice shack.

Knee is fine now, but it was painful. I should probably change my avatar since it's been awhile since I broke it, but it goes with my username. :)
 
/ Show us your shop building #67  
Here's my latest project- a barn for our place in SC. It's 28'X48', with a 28'X32' loft. The ceiling height downstairs is over 12' to allow for a lift in the future. I put in a full bathroom so I can live in it while I build the house. Eventually, the barn will be red with white trim.

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/ Show us your shop building #68  
Good Afternoon Duane,
Here are a couple of shots of the barn I put up this past year.....:)

I finished wiring the building this year and hope to insulate and do the sheetrock in the shop section next year...
 

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/ Show us your shop building #69  
Good Afternoon Duane,
Here are a couple of shots of the barn I put up this past year.....:)

I finished wiring the building this year and hope to insulate and do the sheetrock in the shop section next year...

Looks great Scotty!
Just thinking out loud , but I wonder if there may be a better alternative to gypsum for the interior walls of your shop.

Just what I'm not sure, maybe plywood???

Anything more durable than gypsum board?

JB
 
/ Show us your shop building #70  
I used to share space with the hay too...as seen in the photo of the old shop.

I couldn't stand working on projects in the cramped space so I built a new 4 bay shop next to the old one. The only thing I skimped on when I built it was insulation...Big mistake! These pole barns are like an oven in the Texas summers.

I realized I don't really have any pics of the interiors...as for being clean....well I used to be, but at some point lost interest in it.
 

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/ Show us your shop building #73  
Looks great Scotty!
Just thinking out loud , but I wonder if there may be a better alternative to gypsum for the interior walls of your shop.

Just what I'm not sure, maybe plywood???

Anything more durable than gypsum board?

JB

Good Mornin John and Happy Thanksgiving,
Thats a good point and Im planning on taking a good look at that before I put up any sheetrock...

A friend of mine used some inexpensive particle or chip board and then painted it, and it looks pretty good to me...

Im open for any suggestions..... ;):)
 
/ Show us your shop building #74  
Good Mornin John and Happy Thanksgiving,
Thats a good point and Im planning on taking a good look at that before I put up any sheetrock...

A friend of mine used some inexpensive particle or chip board and then painted it, and it looks pretty good to me...

Im open for any suggestions..... ;):)


Happy TG to you too Scotty, I can smell the turkey cooking already, wife is working like crazy for 26 guests. I'm sitting here relaxing :ashamed:

Any way, I'm no fan of sheet rock even for a home, but I know there is no viable substitute there. But I'm also no fan of that gerbil chewed sheet (particle, OSB etc).

For a shop there has to be something better than compressed white dust sandwiched between paper for your interior walls. but I'm just not sure what.
Then I guess it depends on how rough of work your doing in there, for just a hobby wood shop maybe dry wall is just fine, For mechanical work, I would want something more durable.

I had T-11 on the interior of my little work shop at my first house, but there is probably fire rating issues with that or any wood for that matter ???

Good Luck,

JB
 
/ Show us your shop building #75  
If your rich get some hardipanel full sheets and do up the walls. wont expand or contract and is fireproof. they come in 4x8, 4x9 and 4x10 foot sheets.

HardiePanel Siding
 
/ Show us your shop building #76  
taking a good look at that before I put up any sheetrock...
I would not put sheetrock up on any non-environmentally controlled shop. You'll eventually have mushy, moisture-laden sheetrock and a mold problem -- not "if" but "when" is the question. And thereafter all sorts of other issues are going to start. The ding-dongs who hung sheetrock in the 1930's era smokehouse shown below made a complete mess for me...

Wrooster

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/ Show us your shop building #78  
24x42x12ft, 6" concrete floor 4000 psi, 10x10 ft rollup doors

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Recent photo--sometimes it's difficult to see the floor:).

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/ Show us your shop building #79  

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/ Show us your shop building #80  
This is my new garage. Whole reason I bought the place (got a nice house with it)....lol

48' wide x 40' deep with 14 foot ceilings attached to the house. Built with 2x6's in the walls and packed with insulation. Has an 18' wide front double door and a 10' wide back door for a drive thru shop that leads to the back yard with a 1.5 car garage with a lean to out back.

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I'm still moving in yet...getting my fab area setup and have to make room for this....

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