Oil & Fuel Why does oil light come on?

[bky]

I have a question about my l245dt with 1445 hours. My oil light comes on after the tractor is running for a few minutes , and if i rev the rpm's to 15oo rpm the light goes out. I try not run it over 2000 rpm's
I started a couple weeks ago and since then i did change the oil and have since checked the level and it is OK. i am wondering if the oil pump is going out? if so what would it take to change it.

 

[KennyV]

To find out what is really going on... you need to remove the oil light sender, (Switch). And screw in an actual pressure gauge... Then you will be able to see what the real oil pressure is at start up & what happens to it as things warm up... KennyV

 

[rbargeron]

Replacing the oil pump is a lot of wrenching (major disassembly) so it would be a good first step to connect an actual pressure gauge so you can watch what's really going on. The sender switch can be replaced with a capillary tube and gauge from an auto parts store. Once you have a way to watch how pressure varies with conditions you'll know better how to proceed. At low rpm and load, even 5 psi is enough to oil the engine. You might get lucky and find it's just the sender spring that's gotten weaker with age. Good luck.

 

[crazyal]

It could be several things. My suggestion would be to buy a simple oil pressure gauge and verify that the pressure is low. If it is low I'm not sure if simply replacing your oil pump is going to solve your problem.

It could be something like your rod and camshaft bearings are worn and more oil is flowing by them as your engine runs. As you increase the RPMs you increase the flow but since the gap between the parts doesn't increase the extra flow means increased pressure.

 

[Gunny]

I'd check actual pressure as suggested above, if it falls just below minimums, you might try a little heavier weight oil.

 

[varmint]

Not long after I got my used B8200, there was a thread on triple gauge sets that some TBNers were talking about. I invested $13 in a set- oil pressure, voltage and coolant temp. I made a "console" to mount them, but installing them was easy. I just installed a tee were the oil sender switch was, and bingo- very useful, I think. Seems to me everyone should have such information about how their engines are working.

 

[moored4]

Not long after I got my used B8200, there was a thread on triple gauge sets that some TBNers were talking about. I invested $13 in a set- oil pressure, voltage and coolant temp. I made a "console" to mount them, but installing them was easy. I just installed a tee were the oil sender switch was, and bingo- very useful, I think. Seems to me everyone should have such information about how their engines are working.

That's a nice looking install! :thumbsup:

 

[bky]

Replacing the oil pump is a lot of wrenching (major disassembly) so it would be a good first step to connect an actual pressure gauge so you can watch what's really going on. The sender switch can be replaced with a capillary tube and gauge from an auto parts store. Once you have a way to watch how pressure varies with conditions you'll know better how to proceed. At low rpm and load, even 5 psi is enough to oil the engine. You might get lucky and find it's just the sender spring that's gotten weaker with age. Good luck.

Any idea of what size thread i would need? also is it called a capillary tube gauge?
or could I use a standard gauge. Pressure Gauge, Liquid Filled, 2 In, 60 Psi - Pressure and Vacuum Gauges - Pressure and Vacuum Measuring - 4FKZ4 : Grainger Industrial Supply

 

[tshep]

I would buy what they call an 1/8 pipe (Bourdon tube) gauge.
Most old cars and auto places will have that size,and if it happens to be 1/4 pipe you can adapt it up - and yet still use it for other, more common things. Capillary tubes are usually for temperature - like that copper tube in an older oven.
Every oil pressure problem I have ever had, without an obvious spun bearing noise, was sludge in the pan blocking the pickup screen (even on well changed machines). It's a temperature/air flow thing that can happen even if oil is changed regularly.
I took to soaking screens, in place, in Seafoam, and then scraping screen with wire hook through oil hole. Worked fine, last one I did... Drain the Seafoam and use it over later as gas additive with some oil in it!

 

[bky]

Thank you all for the suggestion and thnak you tshep for linking me to a gauge