New GC2610 questions

/ New GC2610 questions #22  
I have been using AMSoil Synthetic Diesel SAE 10W-30/SAE 30 for the motor, Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission Oil SAE 5W-30 for the tranny and hydraulics, and Severe Gear 75W-90 for the front axles ( and my gears in attachments ) Have had no issues, squeaks or squeals,temp issues, etc... More money, yes.... but for a few extra bucks, i sleep better.... :thumbsup: These amazing machines are not cheap, so for me.... it is cheap insurance. My 2 cents.

:)
 
/ New GC2610 questions #23  
I used the NAPA fluid at the 50-hr change, with no discernable problems. At 250, I used TSC generic (equiv. to Permatran III) fluid. Seems OK.

One of these days, however, I'd like to replace with synthetic, if for no other reason than reducing warm-up time in the winter....

So far, it's just been a matter of convenience to use "normal" fluid.
 
/ New GC2610 questions #24  
I would recommend using either Permatran, or Amsoil ATH synthetic. They are the only two that have been proven trouble free. Some have run other brands, and had no problems. And some reported issues.

I have been using AMSoil Synthetic Diesel SAE 10W-30/SAE 30 for the motor, Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission Oil SAE 5W-30 for the tranny and hydraulics, and Severe Gear 75W-90 for the front axles ( and my gears in attachments ) Have had no issues, squeaks or squeals,temp issues, etc... More money, yes.... but for a few extra bucks, i sleep better.... :thumbsup: These amazing machines are not cheap, so for me.... it is cheap insurance. My 2 cents.

:)



I am using Amsoil synthetic in everything, except my front diff, I had some permatran leftover from my machine being delivered to me low on fluid. So I bought a gallon and used the remainder in my front end at my 50 hr. I will change to Amsoil gear at my 250hr. As ray66v said... it is well proven.
 
/ New GC2610 questions
  • Thread Starter
#25  
What about filters? Does napa/.wix make an OE replacement? Amsoi lhydraulic fluid seems to be around $45 a gallon. Napa premium is $14 a gallon. Does it really flow that much better when cold? My tractor will be parked in an unheated space. One more thing that I forgot to mention. Most people seem to say permatran III is the only way to go. I spoke to my dealer and they do not use Massey fluid. They use kubota fluid. They said if it meets the specs it is fine. Brand does not matter.
 
/ New GC2610 questions #26  
What about filters? Does napa/.wix make an OE replacement? Amsoi lhydraulic fluid seems to be around $45 a gallon. Napa premium is $14 a gallon. Does it really flow that much better when cold? My tractor will be parked in an unheated space. One more thing that I forgot to mention. Most people seem to say permatran III is the only way to go. I spoke to my dealer and they do not use Massey fluid. They use kubota fluid. They said if it meets the specs it is fine. Brand does not matter.

I started a new thread on filters for you:
GC Series Filters, OEM And Aftermarket Part Numbers - TractorByNet.com

All universal hydraulic fluid meets the minimum spec. for you tractor, but it is not all the same. Each uses a different additive package.

I have found that different fluids run at different temperatures. Heat is a big factor in how long your transmission lasts. This is no place to try and save a few bucks.

If you can't get Permatran locally, my guess is the Kubota fluid is a good substitute.

The Amsoil, is expensive, normally twice as much, but I have not bought it lately, so I don't know this weeks price. People who sell this stuff will deal, so barter with them.

The specs for Permatran are very difficult to find published for comparisons like extremely cold weather performance. I did see them once, and the difference when you compare it to synthetic was not big. But, we do know synthetic lubricates better in cold weather, and when you see the long warm up times in the manual it is clear this is important.

I consider the synthetic oil the best option, especially when you consider it will last 2-3 times longer than mineral oil. I don't run my tractor in harsh dirty conditions, so I have no problem running it longer than the recommended interval with a filter change.

You can also add a silicone pad heater to the bottom of the trans. I use one like pictured below. It keeps the oil from getting real cold. Makes you feel a lot better about running the tractor when it's been sitting in below zero temps.

Engine oil heater/ oil pan heater 120v 150watt NEW | eBay
 
/ New GC2610 questions
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Thanks for all the info. I have no problem using the Amsoil if it truly will give longer intervals. I will be using my machine for lawncutting,snowblowing and chores around my 5 acres so I do not expect heavy use. What kind of extended intervals are we talking about? Are you changing the filter at the factory specified interval and leaving the hyd fluid in longer?
 
/ New GC2610 questions #28  
What kind of extended intervals are we talking about? Are you changing the filter at the factory specified interval and leaving the hyd fluid in longer?

Yep. :thumbsup:
 
/ New GC2610 questions
  • Thread Starter
#29  
I just logged 25 hrs over the last few days pulling stumps and grading. I noticed that when I pressed the diif lock it did not lock the other wheel. I purchased the factory service manual and it does not show anything about the diff lock. I do see a cable with an adjustment underneath. Any experience with this? I do not want to adjust the cable until I know for sure that is it. In addition I want to add that the service manual leaves a lot out. Another thing I noticed is that it doies not mention any adjustments for the cruise control. Tha manual is not as in depth as I would of hoped. I might of wasted $110.
 
/ New GC2610 questions #30  
I just logged 25 hrs over the last few days pulling stumps and grading. I noticed that when I pressed the diif lock it did not lock the other wheel. I purchased the factory service manual and it does not show anything about the diff lock. I do see a cable with an adjustment underneath. Any experience with this? I do not want to adjust the cable until I know for sure that is it. In addition I want to add that the service manual leaves a lot out. Another thing I noticed is that it doies not mention any adjustments for the cruise control. Tha manual is not as in depth as I would of hoped. I might of wasted $110.

The diff lock requires the gears to allign perfectly for it to engage. This can take practice. It is common for new owners to have trouble getting it to work, (as well as the float controls on the FEL, and the Backhoe), once you figure it out, it will be fairly easy.

It is not usually simply a matter of pushing on the pedal. Unless the gears happen to be aligned, you will need to be moving very slowly, while applying just enough pressure to the pedal for the gears to mesh. It would be a lot easier to show you.

It will not always disengage right away, when you lift your foot off of the peddle either. You will not be able to get the machine to turn when this happens.
 
/ New GC2610 questions #31  
The diff lock requires the gears to allign perfectly for it to engage. This can take practice. It is common for new owners to have trouble getting it to work, (as well as the float controls on the FEL, and the Backhoe), once you figure it out, it will be fairly easy.

It is not usually simply a matter of pushing on the pedal. Unless the gears happen to be aligned, you will need to be moving very slowly, while applying just enough pressure to the pedal for the gears to mesh. It would be a lot easier to show you.

It will not always disengage right away, when you lift your foot off of the peddle either. You will not be able to get the machine to turn when this happens.

Just as ray66v has said............mine is the same way.It takes practice to get it to engage.
 
/ New GC2610 questions
  • Thread Starter
#32  
I just reread the manual. I assumed the diff lock was for the front wheels like my atv. Just figured the rear wheels both spin all the time. I was looking at the front wheels when I stepped on it. I have to try again looking at the rear wheels. That kind of sucks that you can not lock the front axle! I could of used the extra traction today.
 
/ New GC2610 questions
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Why would you say that? Does a larger tractor have a locking front axle? It is an easy remedy. I just adjust the load or conditions in which I am operating to fit the tractor. The Gc2610 did everything I asked for today. If I lose traction every now and then I can live with that. I just misunderstood what diff lock does. I was pulling a 6 foot box blade and lost traction a couple of times. Not a big deal at the end of the day.
 
/ New GC2610 questions #35  
Why would you say that? Does a larger tractor have a locking front axle? It is an easy remedy. I just adjust the load or conditions in which I am operating to fit the tractor. The Gc2610 did everything I asked for today. If I lose traction every now and then I can live with that. I just misunderstood what diff lock does. I was pulling a 6 foot box blade and lost traction a couple of times. Not a big deal at the end of the day.

The larger utility & Bigger tractors had a locking front diff. Once you master the rear diff lock, you will be fine.
 
/ New GC2610 questions #36  
Why would you say that? Does a larger tractor have a locking front axle? It is an easy remedy. I just adjust the load or conditions in which I am operating to fit the tractor. The Gc2610 did everything I asked for today. If I lose traction every now and then I can live with that. I just misunderstood what diff lock does. I was pulling a 6 foot box blade and lost traction a couple of times. Not a big deal at the end of the day.

Larger tractors are heavier, and have bigger tires, so they get better traction. So, they do not necessarily need a locking front axle.

If you need a locking front axle, or as some do in these operations, put chains on it, to try and force the issue, it is a sign the tractor is not big enough for the job.

I know the 2300 was designed to pull a 4 foot box blade. Your tractor has more power, but it lacks the weight needed to use that power in this type of situation, so you have wheel slip.

I believe a 6 foot box blade is too large to be really effective on your tractor breaking and moving dirt. And that is a factor in the traction issues your experiencing.

The GC series is an "estate" tractor. They were designed to do routine property maintenance. They can, and people do, use them to do more than that, but they do have limitations. You are up against one of them.
 
/ New GC2610 questions
  • Thread Starter
#37  
I understand what you are saying. The box blade was borrowed from a friend. IT worked great except for a few times I lost traction. I adjusted the blade slightly and it worked just fine. Thanks for all the info. This is a great place to learn about tractors.
 
/ New GC2610 questions #38  
I just reread the manual. I assumed the diff lock was for the front wheels like my atv. Just figured the rear wheels both spin all the time. I was looking at the front wheels when I stepped on it. I have to try again looking at the rear wheels. That kind of sucks that you can not lock the front axle! I could of used the extra traction today.

I dont think you'll find too many tractors big or small out there with locking front differential. Do you realize the stress that axle will be under when the loader is full? I understand they have them on agriculture tractors though. I doubt you will find them on many CUT's or SCUT's.
 
/ New GC2610 questions
  • Thread Starter
#39  
I am back with another question. I logged around 25 hrs use. Around 18 hrs were bh and bucket operations. I checked my hydraulic fluid level after I finished and it was not in the glass area. It was at the top of the glass when i picked up the machine from the dealer. I needed to add three qts of fluid to get it back where it was in the glass. Yes it was checked both times on a level concrete pad in my garage. I did a once over and there are no signs of a leak. Is this normal?
 
/ New GC2610 questions #40  
I am back with another question. I logged around 25 hrs use. Around 18 hrs were bh and bucket operations. I checked my hydraulic fluid level after I finished and it was not in the glass area. It was at the top of the glass when i picked up the machine from the dealer. I needed to add three qts of fluid to get it back where it was in the glass. Yes it was checked both times on a level concrete pad in my garage. I did a once over and there are no signs of a leak. Is this normal?

Had the same issue with mine after a few hours of use when it was new. Only thing i can think is some of the lines or cylinders were not full from factory.... after i added the oil i have not had to top it up since. other than changing the oil of course at service time....
 

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