Buying Advice 1962 Ford 2000 Produced in 1963?

[PamlicoLawnCare]

This is my first post although I have been loitering on a daily basis for several months now.

Ford 2000 Model Number: 21201
Ford 2000 Serial Number: <> 4162 <>

Below I have cut and pasted the codes for the numbers.


Thousand Series tractor serial numbers -
1962 Serial number 1001 - 11947
1963 Serial number 11948 - 38930
1964 Serial number 38931 - up

Decoding the 5 digit model numbers on 2000-4000 series tractors -

First number (1 digit)
2**** - 134 ci gasoline or 144 ci diesel engine
4**** - 172 ci gas, LP-gas or 172 ci diesel engine

Second number (1 digit)
*0*** - Industrial models produced prior to 1963
*1*** - Industrial and agricultural models produced after 1963

Third number (2 digits)
**10 * - Row crop
**11 * - Offset
**20 * - Utility-type w/adjustable front axle
**21 * - Orchard type w/ non-adjustable front axle
**30 * - Utility-type tractor w/non-adjustable front axle (light industrial)
**31 * - Low center of gravity (LCG tractor)
**40 * - Heavy duty industrial tractor w/sub frame
**41 * - Heavy duty industrial tractor w/sub frame & cast grille

Last number (1 digit)
*1**0 - Four-speed w/o PTO
*0**1 - Four-speed w/o PTO or hydraulics
*1**1 - Four-speed w/PTO
*0**2 - Four-speed w/hydraulics, w/o PTO
*1**2 - Five-speed w/live PTO
*0**3 - Four-speed w/hydraulics and PTO
*0**4 - Select-O-Speed w/o hydraulics or PTO
*1**4 - Select-O-Speed w/o PTO
*0**5 - Select-O-Speed w/hydraulics and single-speed (540 rpm) PTO
*0**6 - Select-O-Speed w/hydraulics, 540 and 1000 rpm PTO and ground-speed PTO
*1**6 - Select-O-Speed w/two-speed (540 and 1000 rpm) independent PTO
*1**7 - Select-O-Speed w/540 and 1000 rpm independent PTO and ground-speed PTO
*0**9 - Five-speed w/live PTO


The serial number (4162) designates the tractor is a 1962.

The second digit (1) in the model number (21201) designates the tractor was produced in 1963.

This seems like a contradiction.

Why is the tractor considered a 1962 model if it was produced in 1963?

I actually thought I may have initially misread or miswrote the numbers wrong so I drive 30 miles roundtrip again to verify that the numbers were correct.

Any help or explanation would be appreciated.


Thank You,

Rod Jordan
Pamlico Lawn Care, LLC
Oriental, NC

 

[Soundguy]

while I have seen a few discrepencies in ford coding, and differences in actual physical year produced vs model year, i would double check one more time to make sure you are not missing a leading '1' or actually probably 'I' on the tractor SN. IE.. I4I62 which would make everything jive perfectly.

also.. what do other casting codes onthe rest of the machine reveal.. generally you see a 1-3 month spread on casting codes between block and trumpets and such for a machine that has not been frankensteined.

soundguy

 

[PamlicoLawnCare]

Thank you Soundguy.

Yes...I checked and rechecked several times.

Here's a shot of it.

The model number on top has the last digit (1) sort of mis-spaced way out to the right.

There doesn't seem to be any room left for an additional digit between the diamond symbols in the serial number on the bottom.

The numbers are clearly legible in person. The photo is a little more difficult to read.

Thank You,

Rod Jordan
Pamlico Lawn Care, LLC
Oriental, NC

 

[Soundguy]

hard to say.. I'd use a 3m wheel and buff that piant off. I've seen numbers hid well before.

and again.. it won't be the first model year aberation i've ever seen either.. 62 was the end of the 01 series, and beginning of the 000 series for the model year 63.. that said.. the first ones were surely built in the end of 62. i'll look at my charts closer when i get off work

soundguy

 

[PamlicoLawnCare]

Thank you.

I was thinking of buying this tractor to use for brush hogging and scraping driveways a few times a year.

The owner won't take any less than $2,200.00. He said he just spent almost $600.00 on all new tires. He said he's owned it twenty years and only used it to box blade his driveway a few times a year.

It runs well. I drove it around the yard in each gear for a minute or so. The lift and PTO each work. It was a workout steering it. The proofmeter doesn't work so who knows how many hours are on it...shows 1,6XX.

There are no implements or extra parts included.

I've never owned a tractor so this would be my first. That amount would be about my limit to spend and I'm not into financing one.

Is this too much money for this tractor? Should I look for something else?

Here's some photo's.

Thank You,

Rod Jordan
Pamlico Lawn Care, LLC
Oriental, NC

 

[Opti-Mist]

The published serial number ranges by year are approximate. Serial numbers were assigned when the order was entered into the system, not when the unit was actually built. The build was scheduled when all the neccessary components were available. A significant amount of time could elapse between the two events.

 

[Soundguy]

price rang is about right.

tires do look good. i see one draglink has angle iron brace on it..no biggie.

tight steering may mean no lube int he box. if the steering wheel rises and falls as you turn side to side, it likely needs 50$ of bearings, and 16$ of lube int he box. manual for steering boxes are pretty esy to rebuild. i've probably done every manual box on my old fords. most recent one early this years.. and.. it was a 63 2000

it's a basic 4 speed. i see it has some expanded metal grill protection.. so check water pump and fan.. proof meter might be a cable, the meter itself or the drive int he pump head. pull the cable from the pump head.. if the pump head has a lil turning bit when running.. then figure on a a cable or meter or both ( 65$ ).. no biggie )

dash is shot, ut then.. I expect some rust on an old machine. if you needed new dash metal.. you can find it.. probably 25-50$ max.. most of us collectors have odds n bits of tins laying around. someone is boud to have one if you intende don restoringit.. otherwise.. for just mowing.. it will run

I assume front end is showing kilter due to being parked on a grade.

about the only thing I'd do once purchased is do a fluid change on her ( engine, oil filter, air filter sump, trans fluid, hyd fluid and diffy oil, and then rebuild that steering and go..

I bought one that.. well.. looked just like that a few months ago. had to rebuild the steering box too.. dash had less rust... but I paid a hundred more.. so.. sounds about right..

make sure she has no water in the oil or oil in the water.. if she starts and runs good, have fun.

soundguy

 

[Diamondpilot]

It has a 12 volt conversion which is a good thing. I am not a fan of that exhaust exiting like it does.

One thing I would check is the 3 point lift. Have 2 big 200# plus guys stand on each lift arm and operate it. If it can not lift them you will need to do some R&R on it. Just got done doing it on a 961. Not a hard job but does take some time and $15 in parts and gaskets.

I would take $2000 and offer him $1800. Show up with cash money and a trailer. If he does not take the $1800 tell him thanks and leave. Let him know you are going to look at other tractors. Make sure he has your cell phone number. 9 times out of 10 he will call you back before you get 5 miles down the road. Before you turn around make sure you agree on a price. If he says he can not do the $1800 tell him you will meet him in the middle at $2000 and be done with it.

Chris

 

[PamlicoLawnCare]

Thank you guys.

The owner told me he rejected a $2,000 offer from a guy who had cash in hand. Said he wouldn't take any less than $2,200.

I would agree that at that price it is certainly no bargain.

I've been looking hard for 6-8 weeks now for tractors in that price range and they are hard to find.

I noticed that the lift had a very minor vibration in it as he lifted it up.

Is that normal?

The year model isn't that critical at this point but I thought that if it was a 1962 that it might be worth a little bit more down the road being a 1st year model series.

The owner doesn't know what year it is. When I first called him he said he thought it was from the 60's.

Thank You,

Rod Jordan
Pamlico Lawn Care, LLC
Oriental, NC

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would try the $2000 then. He is probably kicking himself for not taking it. Tell him that is all you can do. Show up with cash and a trailer to show him you are serious.

The vibration is normal on Fords.

As for the year, it does not matter much. They are all good solid tractors.

Are you sure you need that size tractor? A N series could be had with implements in my area for under $2000

Chris

 

[Soundguy]

1, 2200$ is still not out of line for a 2000 even with some rust. just about anywhere tin the 2K$ RANGE is ok.. the less the better. regional distribution and availability makes a difference. if there is a 600/601/2000 on every corner.. they go cheap. if you look for 2 months and find 1, they command more $$. region itself plays a role. northeast = more $ usually, UNLESS the market is flooded. for instance.. an N that goes for 1800$ in florida may cost 3200 in maine... on the other hand a allis WD that goes for 900 $ in a northern state may be 3000$ here because they are as scarce as hens teeth in florida.

a lil shudder in the hyds is about normal. could be plain old wear in the pump.. thick / incorrect oil, water in the oil, or some leak and regen going on making it hunt or bob when up, and pulse on hte way up.

if it will lift the load you need and hold.. lift should be ok... kits are available to fix em.. just like every other part of that tractor.. it's got excelent parts support either via rebuilt / reman/repop or salvage.

soundguy

Thank you guys.

The owner told me he rejected a $2,000 offer from a guy who had cash in hand. Said he wouldn't take any less than $2,200.

I would agree that at that price it is certainly no bargain.

I've been looking hard for 6-8 weeks now for tractors in that price range and they are hard to find.

I noticed that the lift had a very minor vibration in it as he lifted it up.

Is that normal?

The year model isn't that critical at this point but I thought that if it was a 1962 that it might be worth a little bit more down the road being a 1st year model series.

The owner doesn't know what year it is. When I first called him he said he thought it was from the 60's.

Thank You,

Rod Jordan
Pamlico Lawn Care, LLC
Oriental, NC

 

[Soundguy]

I would try the $2000 then. He is probably kicking himself for not taking it. Tell him that is all you can do. Show up with cash and a trailer to show him you are serious.

The vibration is normal on Fords.

As for the year, it does not matter much. They are all good solid tractors.

Are you sure you need that size tractor? A N series could be had with implements in my area for under $2000

Chris

a 601/2000 is so much more tractor than a N that I wouldn't dicker over a few hundred bucks.

if he's lucky, 2100$ may get it.

and ditto on the year.

it's not an extremely collectable model anyway.. if it was a ford 7xxx or 541 then well.. yeah.. more collectable..

soundguy

 

[Rednekford]

Advice from an old haggler:Get cash in small bills, 10's 20's and hold a big wad in your hand.Thumb through them as you talk price.Let him hear the shuffle.Tell him you have $1800 in cash, right now.Check his reaction.A fast refusal probably means he wont take less than asking price.Hesitation means he is considering it. If he keeps looking at the cash, he is mesmerized.Just wait and keep thumbing it.
Take a friend with you.If he refuses,huddle with your friend, and borrow $100 from the friend(Your money he is holding),then say 1900 is your final offer.If he refuses, say "OK,I just bought 2 T-bone steaks for supper tonight, and I will throw them in for good measure, but man, you are taking food right out of my mouth."(Have the steaks on ice in the truck.)If that does not seal the deal,be prepared to pay full asking price, if you really want the tractor.
These tactics may seem unfair, but the way I learned was from having them used on me.Just passing it on....
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It has a 12 volt conversion which is a good thing. I am not a fan of that exhaust exiting like it does.

One thing I would check is the 3 point lift. Have 2 big 200# plus guys stand on each lift arm and operate it. If it can not lift them you will need to do some R&R on it. Just got done doing it on a 961. Not a hard job but does take some time and $15 in parts and gaskets.

I would take $2000 and offer him $1800. Show up with cash money and a trailer. If he does not take the $1800 tell him thanks and leave. Let him know you are going to look at other tractors. Make sure he has your cell phone number. 9 times out of 10 he will call you back before you get 5 miles down the road. Before you turn around make sure you agree on a price. If he says he can not do the $1800 tell him you will meet him in the middle at $2000 and be done with it.

Chris

 

[murphy1244]

Advice from an old haggler:Get cash in small bills, 10's 20's and hold a big wad in your hand.Thumb through them as you talk price.Let him hear the shuffle.Tell him you have $1800 in cash, right now.Check his reaction.A fast refusal probably means he wont take less than asking price.Hesitation means he is considering it. If he keeps looking at the cash, he is mesmerized.Just wait and keep thumbing it.
Take a friend with you.If he refuses,huddle with your friend, and borrow $100 from the friend(Your money he is holding),then say 1900 is your final offer.If he refuses, say "OK,I just bought 2 T-bone steaks for supper tonight, and I will throw them in for good measure, but man, you are taking food right out of my mouth."(Have the steaks on ice in the truck.)If that does not seal the deal,be prepared to pay full asking price, if you really want the tractor.
These tactics may seem unfair, but the way I learned was from having them used on me.Just passing it on....
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Welcome from Ohio, This is a 2 year old thread.

 

[Rednekford]

Welcome from Ohio, This is a 2 year old thread.

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HEH HEH! Didn't notice the date, but never to late to learn a few negotiation tricks!

 

[Soundguy]

i usually put 80% of my final price in one pocket and the rest in another on most deals likethat..e tc. easy to go up.. hard to go down..

 

[Rednekford]

Having gone thru the school of hard knocks, if I decide on a price to sell something,that is it.
If a person tries to talk me down, I go up 10%. Each time he tries to talk me down, I go up.
Finally, he says OK, I'll pay the original asking price.
Nope! Too late.IT will now cost %10 more, or take a walk.
Tees a lot of people off, but I get my asking price or I take it back home till next time.
After a while, you get a rep for not backing down, and people will not even try.
I only get genuine interested buyers.

 

[Soundguy]

i don't sell many things. once i've decided i actually want to sell something.. I don't waste time with playing silly games like giving buyers a hard time and taking my toys and going home. if I don't want it.. it's not coming home. if I even remotely want it.. that is. if I think in 20ys i might use it.. it's fine to leave stored in the barn...

barter with offer / counter offer is just normal business.

to penalize someone for even asking if you would take less is imho.. impolite. but you are entitled to be that way. free market.

soundguy

Having gone thru the school of hard knocks, if I decide on a price to sell something,that is it.
If a person tries to talk me down, I go up 10%. Each time he tries to talk me down, I go up.
Finally, he says OK, I'll pay the original asking price.
Nope! Too late.IT will now cost %10 more, or take a walk.
Tees a lot of people off, but I get my asking price or I take it back home till next time.
After a while, you get a rep for not backing down, and people will not even try.
I only get genuine interested buyers.