Food plot implements?

[Jksnvly]

I want to put in a couple of small 1/4-1/2 acre food plots for deer etc.. Anyone else here do so? What equipment do you utilize? I have a 2520. Thanks.

 

[kennyd]

Your question may be answered better in the "Projects" or "Attachments" section, this is certainly not a JD specific question...

 

[Jksnvly]

Sorry-this is the area I visit. Just thought there might be some like minded owners here...and it does have to do with JD owning/operating.

 

[kennyd]

Sorry-this is the area I visit. Just thought there might be some like minded owners here...and it does have to do with JD owning/operating.

Sorry if you took my post the wrong way, I did not mean to sound like a smart a**. I was just trying to direct you to the place where you would get the most responses to your questions.
There are a lot of post's in the project forum about food plots, and a lot of people without Deere's maintaining them.

 

[Jksnvly]

Kennyd-you didn't sound like a SA. I didn't know where to go. The attachments area didn't produce alot of results, but a search of the Projects area did. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

 

[mx125]

I know you've found answers elsewhere, but I have a 2320. I just did a 1/2 acre food plot on old meadow. I have a brush hog and tiller. Cut as low as it would go. Fair bit of scrub/ some small trees (cedar) and meadow grass.

Then I went straight to my rotary tiller. The common wisdom seems to be to spray round up to kill the grass first . . but I didn't. worked well. I did 3 slow passes to really chop it up.

Then I simply used hand held seed spreader for a clover mix. I've already got 2 inches of growth. I may have issue with the existing grass weed mulch fighting for space, but we'll see. Techniqu flaws aside, the cutter and the tiller are all I needed. I'm not sure if a disc would have been as effective behind my 2320.

 

[Deadman]

Just be careful....too much round-up and nothing will grow, not even your seeds. Alfalfa definately won't grow after round up.

 

[RollingsFarms]

ive planted food plots that are about 1/2 acre every year for the past 10 years and all ive done is disc it up really well, use my spreader that i pull behind the tractor to spread lime, fertilizer, seeds, then use my drag harrow that i made to cover the seed up. its worked really well for me every year, not to mention i put out 100lb bags of shelled or ear corn per stand along with a 50lb salt block. this has been ver successful for me as turkeys, deer, doves, quail, and other wildlife benefit from it. i use an old 1978 JD 950 but will hopefully be upgrading to a much larger tractor in the next year or so.

 

[GA WTDeer]

IMO a box blade, disk harrow, and rotary cutter are great. Use the box blade with the rippers all the way down, and tilted forward to let the dirt pass, on a new plot. This also allows water to sink in and soften the earth. The disk is for a level and tilled seed bed, the cutter, well, to cut...PS use box when dry and disk when damp. Clay

 

[Deadman]

If you make the food plots too small, the deer will eat everything before it ever grows or matures. I made a 2 acre one last year and they dug up everything when it was young and tender. This year I went to 7 acres and its doing well.

 

[mx125]

If you make the food plots too small, the deer will eat everything before it ever grows or matures. I made a 2 acre one last year and they dug up everything when it was young and tender. This year I went to 7 acres and its doing well.

That is my fear. I actually give myself only a 20% chance of making it to deer season, but i thought at least it would be a good experiment. The seed was $20 . .and I needed an excuse to use the tractor!

 

[Deadman]

Its good to start off small, you'll learn what works and what doesn't before you move up to a bigger area.
All you can do is try a small area and see what happens.

 

[jim2210]

I used a box blade and a wooden pallet with a piece of fence attached to smooth everything. My plot is just under an acre. One thing I learned through experience is not to skip any steps in preparing the soil. Factors such as killing existing vegitation and the all important soil test will determine a successful food plot. If your going to put one in, do it right the first time.

I ripped everything with the scarifiers on the box blade then scraped off the top layer of existing vegitation with good results. Negatives of this are the obvious removal of soil, however you get great organinc soil after a year or so (which I used for planting blueberry bushes). Just an FYI, I got great info from the Whitetail Institute of America website. I also used their Imperial Clover blend with great results. Here's some pics of the field prep...

jim2210 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

[Oleozz]

I use a plow to turn the ground over, then disc, harrow, and disc again. I then use a spreader to broadcast the seeds and then lightly harrow it under. For me the most impt tool for soil prep is the disc. The deer will hammer the living daylights out of it but hopefully they will be there when hunting season rolls around this fall.
I plant lots of buckwheat most years, the deer and turkey love it.

 

[Briana03]

Hello,

This thread has been moved to the new Food Plot Forum. :thumbsup:

 

[bz1]

I use a brush hog to cut existing vegetation early in the season, then when young plants grow back use roundup to kill them. Do a soil test to figure out what the soil needs. Then about a month before you plant I use a 3 point spreader to spread lime as needed and till it in. Right before planting spread fertilzer and till again. I spread seeds on areas as big as 1 acre by hand, small seeds I use a hand crank spreader, large seeds I just throw by hand. Doesn't pay to hook up my spreader just to spread seed. Then I used the tiller to stir up the top 2 inches of soil and bury the seeds. That's it.

 

[Jmidjr]

I'm neither an expert nor terribly eperienced, but agree it's important not to skip important steps. So, I cut with rotary cutter during summer, get soil tested then. Spray a week or two later when weeds are growing well. Then disk thoroughly after gly has done it's thing. Next I spread pelletized lime as indicated in soil test ( pelletized so I can use my 3pt spreader even on smaller plots). I disk the lime in and wait until time to plant.

I don't have a tiller, so I prepare seed bed by dragging landscape rake turned "backwards". I wasn't sure how the rake would work for that, but am very please with the results. I spread seed and fertilizer with the 3pt spreader, and drag seed in with the backwards rake again.

So, to your question, a mower, disk, spreader, and rake are the implements I use. Many combinations of equipment will work depending upon your situation;
the key steps (as far as I know) are soil test, soil amendment per test, weed control, seed bed prep, seeding and covering seed.

None of that keeps hogs from rooting up the freshly planted plots... Be thankful if you don't have feral hogs!!!

Now, experts please point out the other keys I may have missed.

 

[Smallplot]

Just my 2 cents:
1st - soil test
2nd - Mow if needed, then allow plants to begin growing again. this takes one to two weeks depending on weather conditions.
3rd - Spray with Gly 41% or Round Up (same active ingredient) with some crop oil. Have to make sure plants are actively growing for the chemical to enter the root system and effectively kill the plant. Wait about 2 weeks (Follow label directions on chemical)
4th - After all vegetation is dead till or disk and let stand fallow for about 3 weeks. This will allow ungerminated weed seeds to begin growing. Lime can be applied at this time and worked into soil following application rate from soil test. (Only work lime into the top 3 inches of soil)
5th - Disk or till 3 inches deep again and allow to stand fallow about 3 weeks. New weed seeds will again germinate and grow. Repeat this step usually after the third time most of the weeds will be controlled at this point allowing very limited competition with what ever seeds you are going to plant.
6th - Spread fertilizer as per the requirements from the soil test. Work the fertilizer into the top 2 to 3 inches of soil
7th - If broadcasting small seed (like clover, alfalfa, or turnips) cultipack or harrow before spreading seeds.
8th - Broadcast the seeds at the recommended rate.
9th - Cultipack or harrow again to assure good soil to seed contact
10th - After crop is growing use appropriate herbicide to kill unwanted growth if needed.

This will give you the best weed control with minimum use of chemicals on plots not tilled up every year. This method will only work with enough rainfall to keep a good moisture content. If it is a dry year consider mowing then burndown followed by no-till drilling to conserve moisture in soil.

 

[lakngulf]

Then about a month before you plant I use a 3 point spreader to spread lime as needed and till it in.

What type line works in your 3 point spreader. I have a 300 lb spreader, and probably need a lot spread. I grew up on a cattle farm and I have put out a lot of lime but in the EZ flo spreader. I do not think the type of lime we used to get would feed thru my 3 point spreader, but I do not know.

 

[Smallplot]

With a three point spreader pelletized is the way to go. Ag lime will bridge and plug up in your spreader. If you have large enough plots contact your local farm service dealer, they may have a buggy you can rent. That is if you have a tractor big enough to pull it.