5th wheel brake issues

[RobertN]

I removed the in-bed pigtail T connecter; it T's right at the stock receptacle on the receiver hitch. While looking, I noted the factory harness that plugs into the receptacle on the receiver hitch, has 8 wires... It has two white wires.

By connecting the factory tow package wiring back to factory, I jumped to 10.6V at the 5th wheel pigtail, and 9.0V at the brakes while the Prodigy read 12. Truck was OFF

So I am still low, but significantly better.

By connecting the factory tow package wiring back to factory, I jumped to 11.4V at the 5th wheel pigtail, and 9.9V at the brakes while the Prodigy read 13. Truck was ON, RUNNING

As per Diamondpilots suggestion, a rubber band used for broccoli bundles from grocery store, works to wrap around the brake controller and hold the manual lever ON

 

[grsthegreat]

I check my brakes every time i hook them up. Its easy for me to do as i simply manually depress the slide and watch them leave tracks in the gravel.

One time one side didnt act right, and i jacked it up and only one wheel was braking. I took off the drum and a wire had broken. Easy fix and all is well again

 

[RobertN]

I was able to borrow my neighbors Excursion. It is diesel, has tow package, with a Drawtite brake controller. With the Excursion running, manual slide depressed, I had the same values as my truck(after I removed the in-bed "T" 5th wheel receptacle wiring).

So, two trucks, different controllers, same results(11.4V at the 5th wheel pigtail, and 9.9V at the brakes ).

 

[Diamondpilot]

I was able to borrow my neighbors Excursion. It is diesel, has tow package, with a Drawtite brake controller. With the Excursion running, manual slide depressed, I had the same values as my truck(after I removed the in-bed "T" 5th wheel receptacle wiring).

So, two trucks, different controllers, same results(11.4V at the 5th wheel pigtail, and 9.9V at the brakes ).

So you are talking 1.5 volt drop. I am sure you can get it a little better but I think this is within reason as far as resistance and voltage are concerned. Remember, you have 4 large resistors on that wire(magnets).

I am sure some electrical types can give you more insight but this seems acceptable to me.

Chris

 

[RobertN]

I have to take the 5th wheel to a Master Gardener plant sale tomorrow afternoon. Wife and I are "night security" after the stuff is brought in Friday eve, for the Saturday sale. It is only 10 miles away; will see how it works.

So I have tried two trucks, with same results. For the 5th wheel, I have accessed all the wiring I can without tearing the siding off.

I need to figure out the T for the in bed receptacle. I like connecting in the bed, and the hole ect is already there. The one I have is specific to my truck.

So you are talking 1.5 volt drop. I am sure you can get it a little better but I think this is within reason as far as resistance and voltage are concerned. Remember, you have 4 large resistors on that wire(magnets).

 

[Ken45101]

By connecting the factory tow package wiring back to factory, I jumped to 11.4V at the 5th wheel pigtail, and 9.9V at the brakes while the Prodigy read 13.

I don't know for certain but I think the Prodigy is indicating current, not voltage.

I think a current indication is more meaningful in regard to braking.

Ken

 

[RobertN]

I just grabbed the papers. " Range is 0.0 to 13 volts. This is an indication of voltage output to the electric brakes." When it indicated 12, I measured 11.88V at the pigtail on the back of the unit.

I don't know for certain but I think the Prodigy is indicating current, not voltage.

I think a current indication is more meaningful in regard to braking.

Ken

 

[Ken45101]

I just grabbed the papers. " Range is 0.0 to 13 volts. This is an indication of voltage output to the electric brakes." When it indicated 12, I measured 11.88V at the pigtail on the back of the unit.

Okay, I was wrong, thanks for clearing that up. But current would be better since it would show how much was actually going through the brakes. As you know, the voltage at the brake controller doesn't tell the real story about what's getting to the actual brakes.

Ken

 

[JimRB]

I check brakes by jacking up one side of the trailer, use a c-clamp to move the controller to full on and spin the wheels. Not too much power on my equipment trailer and I noticed the second axle had wires torn down. I fixed those wires and still not much braking. I adjusted the gain on the controller and that was the ticket for more braking power. I take it you had the gain set all the way turned one way or the other?

On my trailers they have small wire, maybe 14 guage and the brakes have more than enough power to stop the trailers. Not saying 12 is not a better guage to use but 14 guage could work. I also have a good ground from my plug. Another thing I think someone mentioned was running a good ground from the battery to a bare spot on the frame for testing purposes. Another fused cable plugged into the brakes eliminates or reduces some sort of voltage drop assuming a bit wire is used.

Are you sure you have the brake shoes properly adjusted? Even with full voltage an improperly adjusted set of brake shoes can't work so swell or powerfully. I have borrowed trailers with no working brakes that worked fine after I adjusted the star adjuster for just a wee bit of drag and a double check after a road test.

http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/9-15k_service-11-10/Electric_Brakes_11-10.pdf

Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - FAQ'S
http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f...6-11/Troubleshooting_Electric_Brakes_6-11.pdf

 

[RobertN]

I agree. I cleaned up and soldered the connections... I have to break one to put the amp meter in series again. When I did measure the current before though, the current was linear to the voltage for the 3.2ohm resistance of the magnets.

Okay, I was wrong, thanks for clearing that up. But current would be better since it would show how much was actually going through the brakes. As you know, the voltage at the brake controller doesn't tell the real story about what's getting to the actual brakes.

Ken