Concrete Driveway Cost

[JimWalch]

Do you want to trade driveways? Yours looks very good. Mine had a large tree next to it and heaved it with some 1 1/2" wide cracks down the center like yours.

 

[Western]

Eddie brings up a good point, the demo work. They probably will use a "hammer" mounted on a skid steer, or back hoe, but either way it will add to the cost.

Bird, I'm with the guy's that say "seal" the cracks. Having them seal it if you don't want to, probably will still be cheaper than just the demo alone.

 

[JB4310]

I heard on the radio,yesterday,that due to the drought,foundation repair calls are stacked up for months. Especially anywhere near the black clay soil that runs from Greenville to Dallas,then south along I35 corridor.

What is happening with the dry clay that's causing foundation problems? is it shrinking and causing foundations to settle and crack.

I do basement drainage systems and wish my calls were stacking up, we've got a drought but more in the wallets than the wells

Around here if we have a prolonged dry spell the clay soil will shrink and leave gaps close to a foundation, then when it first rains again water will find an easy path around the foundation and sometimes cause leaks, but never seen any damage to foundation.

JB

 

[300UGUY]

Did that include a tamped sand base or wire mesh reinforcement, and what was the thickness of the slab?

If it was 6 inches thick, that would be close to 45 yards and locally here, a yard delivered runs $90-100. Even if it was only 4 inches thick, you got a really good price if they included a base and mesh.

It's just a standard 4 in slab. I wanted a vapor barrier and the fiberglass mesh. I am really happy, no cracks, it is fine for pickups, cars, my small tractors. If I had a semi or a dump truck, yeah, I'd need more. One thing on cost is that cement contractor buys a lot of crete. He will get a much better price. Probably 20% or more. I know I can get a contractor to repair and fill in my driveway for about what the matierals cost me. A gravel driveway that is!!

Another thing is the vapor barrier - it adds little to the cost, but really is nice. They put that down before they tamp the sand down. It keeps the floor bone dry. Things don't rust up like they used to.

 

[milkman636]

I recently had a 2 qoutes to replace the north side of my circle drive. The concrete is much worse than your pictures. The section is roughly 1850 square feet, 4" thickness except the last 12' at the road has to be 6" thick.

The quotes came back at $8500 and $8800. The low guy said I could save $1 per sq.ft. by tearing it out myself. I don't think I'll be taking him up on that offer though.

 

[JDgreen227]

I recently had a 2 qoutes to replace the north side of my circle drive. The concrete is much worse than your pictures. The section is roughly 1850 square feet, 4" thickness except the last 12' at the road has to be 6" thick.

The quotes came back at $8500 and $8800. The low guy said I could save $1 per sq.ft. by tearing it out myself. I don't think I'll be taking him up on that offer though.

I am retired, have plenty of time but not much money, and with my tractor plus a place to dispose of the old concrete I would be happy to save $1850 by tearing the old drive out myself. My favorite method of getting rid of concrete slabs is to jack one end up, then bust it apart with a hammer. But if it is reinforced....forget that.

Back in 1992 I poured a large concrete patio on the back of our house, it was for a large hot tub, made it extra thick and used old chain link fence for reinforcement. Never expected to have to remove it, but ten years later we built an addition, and the slab had to be taken out. The mesh made that a HUGE, HUGE headache.

 

[Bird]

I am retired, have plenty of time but not much money

Hey, you just described me.:laughing: Of course I'm also a little short on strength and stamina, too.

 

[Egon]

Bird, your concrete does not have that decrepit look. Think a lot about sealing some of the cracks.

 

[EddieWalker]

After seeing the picture, add me to the list of those who feel that it's a good looking driveway that just needs to have the cracks sealed. Wait for a cool day and get something soft to kneel on, and take your time with a caulking gun.

Eddie

 

[JDgreen227]

Hey, you just described me.:laughing: Of course I'm also a little short on strength and stamina, too.

I hit the big "SIX-OH" on Monday. Some days I feel 40 again, some days I feel 80. Wish it would be more consistent !

 

[Bird]

I hit the big "SIX-OH" on Monday. Some days I feel 40 again, some days I feel 80. Wish it would be more consistent !

No, you don't want it to be more consistent.:laughing: I'm 71 and wish I felt like I did when I was only 60. This morning I had to go see my Beltone hearing aid lady to get my hearing aids "updated" to stop the feedback squeal. Then I came home and worked on a neighbor's front yard until after noon (I hope to do the back tomorrow). He's 81 and in bad health, and I just learned yesterday that he's been in the hospital since Sunday. He has some flower beds that had thick weeds and grass that grew up well over knee high, then laid down. And he had left a water hose just barely running (for over a week now) for a little tree so he had some high grass in the yard. So it not only gave my Stihl FS55RC a heavy duty workout, and could even tell it put a little strain on my Toro ZTR, but I had to stop and sit in the shade for a few minutes and have another glass of ice water 3 times when I'd start to feeling some tightness in my chest. Never had that kind of problem when I was 60.

 

[JB4310]

No, you don't want it to be more consistent.:laughing: I'm 71 and wish I felt like I did when I was only 60. This morning I had to go see my Beltone hearing aid lady to get my hearing aids "updated" to stop the feedback squeal. Then I came home and worked on a neighbor's front yard until after noon (I hope to do the back tomorrow). He's 81 and in bad health, and I just learned yesterday that he's been in the hospital since Sunday. He has some flower beds that had thick weeds and grass that grew up well over knee high, then laid down. And he had left a water hose just barely running (for over a week now) for a little tree so he had some high grass in the yard. So it not only gave my Stihl FS55RC a heavy duty workout, and could even tell it put a little strain on my Toro ZTR, but I had to stop and sit in the shade for a few minutes and have another glass of ice water 3 times when I'd start to feeling some tightness in my chest. Never had that kind of problem when I was 60.

Bird, the first part of this post could of been the preview to a funny movie about aging, "had to see the Beltone lady to fix the feed back squeal in my hearing aid"
Sounds kinda Rodney Dangerfieldish :laughing:

But the last part about the tightness in your chest is nothing to take lightly, not sure ice water is the answer, maybe mention that to your doctor...

It's a noble thing to help a neighbor in need, but take it easy.

JB.

 

[Bird]

Well, I had one contractor who came, measured, and said he'd send me a proposal via e-mail to replace the driveway. Never heard from him again. Another contractor I called had a lady answer and said she'd send someone out to look at it. Never heard from them again. Business must be so good they don't need anymore.

Anyway, I cleaned the cracks out with the air hose and blow gun, bought a bag of "play sand" and sifted it to get the little pieces of gravel out, then filled the cracks to within about a quarter inch, and yesterday, I applied Sikaflex SL to all the cracks, big and small, as well as to the expansion joint right where the driveway flares. It looks pretty good, but now after 24 to 36 hours it still feels tacky. I used the same stuff in a couple of expansion joints in the past and think it dried much quicker, and in fact, the instructions say it dries tack free in 1-2 hours, but it sure didn't this time.

 

[JB4310]

I applied Sikaflex SL to all the cracks, big and small, as well as to the expansion joint right where the driveway flares. It looks pretty good, but now after 24 to 36 hours it still feels tacky. I used the same stuff in a couple of expansion joints in the past and think it dried much quicker, and in fact, the instructions say it dries tack free in 1-2 hours, but it sure didn't this time.

Is it very hot? probably yes being Texas. That could be retarding it.
You could mist it with water to help cool and cure it, or lightly dust it with sand to make it less tacky.

I'm not familiar with the sl line but have been using sikaflex 1a for many years, it's pretty much the industry standard in single part polyurethane. Usually takes overnight to 24 hours to skin tac free, and a couple days to a week to become real durable.

Another thing to consider is the 1a is referred to as "moisture cure" that means it does need some degree of moisture in the air to cure properly.
Being as dry as I've heard down there, that could have alot to do with it, that is if the sl is moisture cure as well.

JB

 

[Bird]

Thanks, JB. This SL says tack free in 1-2 hours, fully cured in 3 to 5 days. Fortunately, we've been having lower temperatures lately so most of this SL was applied when the temperature was in the 70s, but it's varied from less than 60 up to 90 since. But I don't remember what the temperatures were when I used it in the past. I hadn't thought at all about getting it wet, but I had thought about applying sand; didn't know if that would help or just make a mess.

 

[JB4310]

We use sand to mask the appearance on many types of patch up fix up repairs. it might help blend in those repairs with the surrounding surface as long as the sand is not an odd color.

I tried to look up the sl to see if it is also moisture cure, but did not find info on that. I see the sl stands for self leveling, that must of made a nice even repair with less or no tooling. We rarely have a need for that but I could see how it could come in handy for certain apps.

JB

 

[Bird]

JB, it seems to me that the Sikaflex SL, light gray color, is used in expansion joints just about everywhere in this part of the country. At least that's what it "looks" like. And yep, no tooling required. Anyway, this morning, mine still felt a little sticky but I could walk on it and while it felt a little sticky, I could not make it stick to my shoes or pull loose from the concrete. So I did spread the play sand on it, then sweep it off. That changed the color a bit, but no more sticky.

So I'm going to call this project done.

 

[Dargo]

Lots of good suggestions and I thank all of you. There's not any buckling, no heaves, etc. but sure is showing the cracks.

Based on my non-professional experience, it looks like they probably used that roll out wire when it was poured and all that wire has just rusted away inside the slab. I got a little better price, but I used well over 2000 yards and the weakest part of my driveway is a full 6" thick and the 40' bridge 14" thick; all with 1/2" rebar and 1/4" rebar matting sitting on these little plastic 'hats'.

If you have them form it up with 2x6" wood, you'll get a good 5" plus slab. I'd go at least that thick and use at least 4000 psi mix. I'd pass on the "kitty fuzz" some companies push. I have a mini excavator, track loader, dump truck and have done many tear out jobs. Concrete with that 'mesh' in it ripped out just as easy as concrete with no reinforcement. Oh, if you can pick, have pea gravel as your aggregrate. That's been the most brutal stuff to rip out if it's reinforced with rebar as anything I've come across.

 

[AGGIE00]

Glad to se you didn't waste your money on replacing the drive. SL-1 is the best crack sealer to use and probably similar to what you used. The only time I would replace a drive is when it starts to crumble and pothole which you will probably never see from light vehicle traffic. If that time ever comes 4" paving with #4 rebar ocew would do fine. The key is to use keyway down the center of the drive and sawcut joints every 10 feet or so.

 

[Bird]

They used 1" boards for expansion joints and in 20 years the wood rotted. So in tearing out those, I could see the concrete reinforcing "wire" that was used instead of rebar. And of course it needed more expansion joints.