3 point Splitter on L28OO Hydraulic connection question

[GlennaR]

I have a L2800 HST Kub with a Woods BackHoe n Loader (great machine, just too bad the Kub is not American made - at least the hoe n loader is).

AnyWay, I am seriously considering purchasing a 3 point PowerHouse splitter (or similar - any suggestions). I am planning to keep the hoe mounted and using the two quick disconnects between the hoe n tractor in order to tap into the hydraulic flow n power the splitter.

My intentions are to build a waist height stand for the splitter and attach long hydraulic lines to it since I want to feed rounds to the splitter directly from the loader bucket onto the table of the splitter as I need it?

Does anyone know if I can simply add T fittings to the supply n return hoe lines with a quick connect so I can power the splitter? Just seems too simple to be true.

 

[J_J]

You don't have to tee into anything. Unplug the BH, and use those QD's for the log splitter. You will still need to bungee the levers if your valves are spring centered

 

[jinman]

Not only is T-ing into the lines not necessary, but it won't work. Your backhoe is an open-center system. There is no pressure in the line until the backhoe control valves close off flow. If you T into the line, anytime you try to use the splitter, the hyd fluid will just continue to bypass your splitter through the backhoe. As JJ said, you need to disconnect that backhoe and hook up the splitter to the lines there.

As a 2nd option, you could hook up to the FEL quick connects also. I would suggest using the loader lift circuit. Once the splitter is hooked up, pull the joystick all the way to the rear and bungee it in that position. If the splitter goes the wrong diretion, then swap the quick connects. Do no try to use the joystick in the forward direction because that will probably go into float and you'll have no pressure. Also if you use the curl circuit, regenerative dump becomes a problem.

Your idea of putting the splitter on a platform is a great idea. You could also mount it on a small trailer and pull that around so that your unsplit rounds and/or split wood would be right there on the trailer to easily haul to your wood pile.

 

[J_J]

GlennaR,

These hose to the back, where are they coming from, a valve, or a hyd block? If coming from a hyd block, these hoses would be in the main flow path, and if not used for anything, they should be connected together. The fluid in this situation would have no other valve other than the log splitter valve, and that valve would provide the relief for the pump.

Where is the output of the BH valve going? Does it have PB, or just an OUT/tank port?

If the hoses are coming from the FEL valve, via a PB port, and not used they should also be connected together to complete the path to the 3pt.

Some log splitter valves have PB, and others do not.

The simple basic log splitter only has and IN, OUT, and two work ports. All the tractor fluid is flowing though the valve until you activate the the splitter. The cyl expended fluid and the tractor flow is flowing out the OUT hose. This Out hose would then pass the flow to the 3pt.

A log splitter valve with PB would be a good thing, because some valves can not take very much back pressure.

You might ask the manufacturer to install a log splitter valve with PB with your purchase, or you could replace it later if desired.

 

[GlennaR]

Thanks Jim n JJ,

I suspected there was lots more to it than I thought.

Honestly speaking, I am such a non professional owner/operator that I have not a clue what BH - EFL valve, PB (power beyond?) means, sorry.

Lots more learning to do for sure.....

For now I am on hold, thanks for cluing me in.........

Glennnnnnnnnn

 

[jinman]

BH = backhoe
FEL = Front End Loader (not EFL)
PB = Power Beyond (a way of tying in more hydraulic equipment like your splitter)
3PH = Three Point Hitch
QC = Quick Connect hydraulic adapters
QA= Quick Attach (as in quick attach loader bucket)

You did exactly right and asked. Don't be intimidated by stuff you don't understand or know. There's somebody here who knows most of the details of your tractor. For specifics, you might post in the Kubota Owning/Operating forum for someone who has done exactly what you are considering.

 

[GlennaR]

You said "You don't have to tee into anything. Unplug the BH, and use those QD's for the log splitter. You will still need to bungee the levers if your valves are spring centered".

Just wondering, If I "unplug the BH", thus no hydraulic fluid is flowing thru the veins of the BH, it's valves n pistons. What does "bungee the levers" do when the BH is disconnected from the hydraulic system do?

 

[J_J]

You only bungee the levers if you want fluid flowing to the BH , or log splitter.

If the fluid is flowing from a rear valve, the valve can shut it on and off. Either install QD in the work ports or plug the unused ports.

If you do not have a valve to supply the fluid, the two hoses coming from the FEL valve are used to supply the fluid for the BH and or the log splitter. If neither are being used, then plug the two hoses together.

 

[jinman]

Just wondering, If I "unplug the BH", thus no hydraulic fluid is flowing thru the veins of the BH, it's valves n pistons. What does "bungee the levers" do when the BH is disconnected from the hydraulic system do?

JJ is not talking about valves on the BH. He is talking about a "remote hydraulic" valve on the tractor. If you don't have a lever on the tractor that you have to throw to use the BH now, then it's not an issue.

Have you ever had your BH off your tractor? Did you disconnect the BH and then have to connect two hoses on the tractor to maintain hydraulic flow? If so, those hoses are where you hook up your splitter. However, if you leave those hoses disconnected while driving away from the backhoe to go to your splitter, you may put your hydraulic system into pressure relief. You probably need to hook the hoses together with the tractor not running, start the tractor and drive to the splitter, shut off the tractor and hook up the splitter, then start the tractor only after the splitter is hooked up. That will ensure the open center path for hydraulics is maintained without causing the system to go into high pressure relief. I'm just not sure on your Kubota and that's why I suggested you post in the Kubota Owning/Operating forum where somebody can tell you for sure.

 

[J_J]

Let me see if I can make this a little more clear.

Scenario #1 , You run a hose from the FEL PB port to the rear of the tractor with a male QD. You attach a hose to the input to the 3pt, and add a female QD. This is now your supply for a BH or log splitter. This circuit has to have hyd flow through it all times the engine is running. With no BH or log splitter, The 2 QD must be connected together.

Scenario # 2, The PB outlet form the FEL connects to the IN port to a valve at the rear. The PB port of the new valve will feed the 3pt. The OUT hose goes to tank. The work posts on this valve can have QD attached. The fluid is always flowing through this valve. When you unplug the BH or log splitter, no problem.

This set up requires the lever to be placed in the on position or bungeed to provide fluid for the work ports, which powers the BH and log splitter.

A 3 position detent valve at the back will eliminate the need to bungee.

 

[GlennaR]

Thanks J.J.

A little clearer now, THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO EXPLAIN THIS TO ME since I had not a clue about all this.

VARY glad I now know the need to either re connect the BH normally or just short together both supply n ret. BH lines ends before starting tractor. DID NOT REALIZE THIS, again thanks for the heads up.....................

The more I learn about this, subject the more I realize perhaps better in the long run that I just buy a splitter with a gas engine, even thou in many ways this is NOT what I want to do.

If I ever forget to short the supply n return lines together n run the tractor, what type of damage does this do to the Kub?

If serious damage is caused,,,, this one fact seems to strongly be the deciding factor to just buy a self powered splitter to avoid this problem all together.

Glennnnnnnn

 

[J_J]

When you deadhead a hyd line, the pressure builds to the maximum as the pump can pump. The PRV relief valve is there to relieve any over pressure. As long as the pressure is above the PRV setting, the relief valve will operate and relieve the pressure. If the relief can dump enough GPM's, not much will happen. If the pressure should build up to some of the parts pressures, hose valve, cyl, pump, etc, something may burst. If you do not know, you will soon learn to recognize the sound of the relief valve going off.

That is why, if using QD's in the pressure line, one should be careful. Also, sometimes the QD's disconnect all by themselves, and things go bad.

Running an implement off a valve is the safest thing to do.

 

[hill]

If the BH connectors are like those for my B7800 BH there will be a male and female QC connection for pressure (male) and return (female). The two are connected on the tractor if the BH is not installed or used (in your case). Those hoses come from the power beyond circuit of my loader valve but the L2800 may have a second transmission connector block for it. Some models have more than one hydraulic output location from the trans/pump - some don't.

Either way, to use the BH hydraulics for something other than the backhoe connections you'll need a male and female QC of matching type connected to the ends of the normally looped circuit at the breakapart point. The new hoses do not need to follow the male/female configuration at the new device ends.

This will work no matter if your model uses the loader or a seperate block. You just disconnect from the BH as though you were unmounting it and instead of hooking the ends of the BH hoses together you hook into them and route your new hoses to your new valve. It's a pretty nice convenience since Kubota has provided the circuit - hoses, routing brackets and all right to the rear of the tractor where you need them.

 

[GlennaR]

It is now Feb 2o15

Thanks everyone for helping me by further educating me on all this.

I took all your comments n suggestions up in my noggin n let it stew for a time. Again thanks you all for the "food for thought".

I first realized why should I use an cheap motor to fuel but expensive to buy and rebuild in-place of a a cheap to buy single cyl mostly thruway/scrap power source. Also I would also be adding lots of hours on my Kub's hour meter thus costing more because of a lower triad in value on the L28oo Kub one day.

Any Way I studied what others have done both in person n watching lots of uTube videos and came up with an total approach that is bed for me.

1. I designed an built a 12 by 24 pole barn/lean to wood shed sorting 3 years of wood of average burn about 30 feet away from the corner of my home where I have the stove facing du south.

2. I divide the shed up into 7 areas basically. Six of the areas have 4' wide by 8+' long by 6.5+' high wood drying n storage cribs. Each crib is stand alone built off strong scrounged pallets placed on gravel floor. All cribs have ends/up rights of 2X4 that are screwed into the pallets frame than up to where normally would be the floor joists or ceiling rafters normally go. Each crib has a min of a two foot isle way to walk in and or promote air flow thru.

2. The 7th area was reserved to processing the wood. I either drag a long log in with the Kub and place it on a sizing ramp with a 12vDC jeep bumper Chinese hoist. I attach the winch line as near to the far end as I can and haul it in and up the ramp to waist height where I trim it into 16" lengths. From this point on I NEVER LET THE 16" LOG down, thus eliminating bending over thousands of times to pick it off the ground AGAIN.

The sizing ramp's end (see foto FS06) was placed in such a location were I either cut a few 16" logs and immediately take them to be stacked or with just a simple twist of the my waist I simply place them over to the splitter work table if they beed to be quartered n split them later or when the table is full.

I chose a splitter I could easily add a strong angle iron work table to the side of. I place the logs from the re sizing ramp there for splitting or if the tree falls in a manor where I can cut into rounds that are off the ground near waist height I sometimes trim them in the woods into rounds than roll them into the loader bucket of the Kub n use the Kub to lift deposit them up on the side of the angel iron table I had fabled up and added to the side of my splitter. Again the thoughts are not work off the ground with my 65 year old back bent over and once lifted they stay up until placed into one of the 6 storage cribs to dry for at least the next 2 years.

The seventh area is in the NE corner under the roof where I drag in the logs to (foto WS07) attached to the hoe bucket. Or haul them in with the Kub's loader bucked when I had the chance buck the rounds in the woods and they need to be splits and I immediately stack them in one of the 6 cribs a few steps away.

Again, one thing I do not do is get carried away with one specific segment of gathering wood. I noticed starting n finish each load of fire wood keeps me from using the ground for a temporary storage area, thus not needing to bend over n pick it up AGAIN........

Any Way, I haven't seen others working like this in vids on uTube but this works for me n my back just fine and I have one my wood drying for at least 24 months before I burn it.