The Next Project.

[Neat 1500]

Finished the carry all so i need a decent tow bar for the 3PH, started this but need some more material and a towbar tongue to weld to it. should come up alright. i am also going to make my version of a quick hitch, am really over the stuffing around to swap implements. also my wife wants me to make a drag to put behind the YM14 to break up the horse dung, i found some galvanised angle iron frames at work that i think will do the trick.

 

[MJPetersen]

i am also going to make my version of a quick hitch, am really over the stuffing around to swap implements.

Neat, I made a QH for myself for the very same reason. It is SO nice to back up to where you want the implement to sit, pull 2 handles, drop the 3pt and pull away, and all without getting off the tractor.

If it would be of help to you, my build is linked in my signature line.


Mike

 

[California]

need some more material and a towbar tongue

A 'cross drawbar'

with the ends cut off might the cheapest basis for a towbar (that extends out the rear) if you don't have an industrial-strength drill to make one from scratch.

 

[Neat 1500]

A 'cross drawbar'

with the ends cut off might the cheapest basis for a towbar (that extends out the rear) if you don't have an industrial-strength drill to make one from scratch.

yeah i have looked at them but decided to make my own incorporating the top link so it has 3 points of attachment. dad rang and said he has a flat tongue i can have so i only need some flat to make up the pin saddles and a bit of welding :thumbsup: in the meantime i will draw up some ideas for a QH. thanks Mike i will take a look. i also want to keep it close to the rear of the tractor as possible as i move our caravan around with it and she is a 22' er.

 

[Neat 1500]

did a bit more on it today until the MIG had a coronary. the wire kinked and balled up something shocking in the feed rollers, dont know how it did it but anyway got it fixed an hour later . should have it finished tomorrow. then the quick hitch starts :thumbsup:

 

[clemsonfor]

Much pretier welds than my Harbor freight flux mig welder. I have been told the splatter is a characteristic of the flux? I dunno, very limited experience and i taught my self. I can run a good bead that looks good and holds well if i take my time, just has all the tiny droplets arond it. Im assuming yours is a true mig with gas, as that metal is really to thick for fluxcore wire anyway, unless you get creative, pre-heating with a tourch or something.

 

[Neat 1500]

Much pretier welds than my Harbor freight flux mig welder. I have been told the splatter is a characteristic of the flux? I dunno, very limited experience and i taught my self. I can run a good bead that looks good and holds well if i take my time, just has all the tiny droplets arond it. Im assuming yours is a true mig with gas, as that metal is really to thick for fluxcore wire anyway, unless you get creative, pre-heating with a tourch or something.

yeah it is a proper argon gassed MIG. i turned the wire speed and current up to give plenty of penetration as the plate is 10mm. i just have to drill some holes in it now and make/weld in some pins and then i will make a QH for it :thumbsup: i was looking at some home made backhoes and they dont look hard to make at all ides,ideas.......

 

[Neat 1500]

did a trial run with it today, works well but have to do something with the angles on a high lift but no big deal.

 

[winston1]

That is a nice looking hitch. Here is the hitch I use. Ball tilt changes with elevation but plenty of range to work pretty good.

 

[Knight9]

Winston,

Love the idea of the support going back to the drawbar for stability. I can see how that would hamper lift height, but for towing that would be very stable I'm sure! :thumbsup:​

 

[MJPetersen]

but have to do something with the angles on a high lift but no big deal.

Did you set the distances between pins at the standard for CAT1? If not then that would be the first option and that should include lowering the top link attach point,--if you used the standard and the tractor side of top link is adjustable in that there are several holes to choose from (often 2 or three sets) then put the tractor side top link in the highest position, if that is already done or not available, then I would suggest lengthening the top link so that it actually points a bit down when lowered, it then will not point as much up when raised.

The above suggestions are based on the theory that if the lift arms and the top link are in parallel planes they will lift level.

Mike

 

[Neat 1500]

Did you set the distances between pins at the standard for CAT1? If not then that would be the first option and that should include lowering the top link attach point,--if you used the standard and the tractor side of top link is adjustable in that there are several holes to choose from (often 2 or three sets) then put the tractor side top link in the highest position, if that is already done or not available, then I would suggest lengthening the top link so that it actually points a bit down when lowered, it then will not point as much up when raised.

The above suggestions are based on the theory that if the lift arms and the top link are in parallel planes they will lift level.

Mike

Hi Mike,
yeah i thought of doing that, along with this mod and that mod :laughing:. i want to keep all my implements at the same mounting heights and widths ( cat 1 ) so they all will fit my QH that i will make next. i will look at doing something with the top link on the QH so it will address the angle issue but in saying that i still want it to do the high rear lift with the slasher for travelling around. i want to make or modify my lift arms and link attaching point on the tractor anyway as they are pretty worn out and sloppy. also i want to get the arm ends closer to the tractor so the implements are as close as possible to the tractor, but in saying that i dont want to lose any lift height:confused2: ahh to many ideas and never enough time