Looking for a good older square baler

[foreman Etexas]

I am interested in getting an older square baler any suggestion on what to get? I have been debating on doing some of my own hay baling just a few hundred a year cause its hard to get someone to bale so little but I have some smaller fields that I could square bale thats not worth someone to come out and do,but cant turn the cows in cause no fencing so its just going to waste.I currently round bale 30ac.but they dont wonna waste there time going to this small patch to this small patch and I understand.

 

[Barry Bowen]

Couple of questions here for what you are trying to do.

Who will cut, ted, and rake this hay for you to bale? Will it be the guy that round bales your 30 ac's or are you going to cut the equipment to do that also? Are you really sure it would not be worth fencing instead of baling?

As to good older baler. JD and NH both made many good balers years ago. Personally I am a JD fan and user, but have a great respect for many of the older NH's. Parts play a bigger part in what may be right for you, more so than make. Is there a good JD or NH dealer near you, and if so which is better for your operation?

One thing about the older balers is that some times you can find a barn treasure, that is one that has been put away for upteen years and was not worn out when it was put away. These require some work to locate, but can be well worth it.

JD balers. Probably the most popular older JD's are the 336 and 346. 336 was a smaller capacity than the 346 and would more than do what you want. Personally I use two of them and we run about 20K a year through them with out much trouble. There is nothing on these balers that cannot be repaired if you know what you are doing. A little older JDs were the 24T and the 224T. If you can find a barn treasure on any of these they can do the job just fine. If they have been left out side for years, do not walk away, RUN AWAY!

Hopefully some one else can fill in more details on the older NH balers like the 60 series and the 200 or even 300 series. There are some major design differnces between the two brands, but they both will get the job done.

Older IH balers never did work right when they were new, so they tend not to do any better as older balers. Parts are also a real problem on IH balers.

Best I idea for what you want to do, stick with the big two JD or NH

 

[Turbys_1700]

I have to agree with Barry...
Around here NH is more popular than Deere in square balers...
My dad sold for the local dealership here for over 25 years...
They carried New Holland and put a lot of those units into the fields...
Parts and support are still very good for those units...
You will pay more for a New Holland but in my opinion they are worth it...

 

[foreman Etexas]

Well the fields are within the 300ac.that is not fenced and they are fields just here and there.I would have alot of$ tied up in fencing off the total 300ac.witch I would have to in order to get every field.Yes,it would be nice but I would also have to doze the fencelines off before fence is installed. I can get a older sickle cutter that my father-in-law will give me and I can pick a rake up. We have both JD and NH around here but I have found someone who has a old hayliner 315 but he wonts $3500 and it has been setting outside for cple years,but has only cple thousands bales.

 

[slowzuki]

Around here 3500$ will buy a nice baler, with a thrower. I gave 2100$ for a really nice JD 336 8 years ago, good baler, I've put about 40,000 bales through it now. They still sell for about the same.

I don't like the way the NH packer forks work running in loops on a chain. Neighbour has one, the chain broke and caused 1000$ of damage.

 

[flusher]

I am interested in getting an older square baler any suggestion on what to get? I have been debating on doing some of my own hay baling just a few hundred a year cause its hard to get someone to bale so little but I have some smaller fields that I could square bale thats not worth someone to come out and do,but cant turn the cows in cause no fencing so its just going to waste.I currently round bale 30ac.but they dont wonna waste there time going to this small patch to this small patch and I understand.

JD and NH balers are good (so I understand--my baler is a Massey Ferguson 124 two twine small squares). I bought my 124 right out of the field--the previous owner had baled 30 acres the previous day and sold the 124 because he bought a JD 336 and didn't need two balers. So I knew the 124 was working OK (paid $2000). I'd suggest you try to find a deal like this so you'll know that the baler works acceptably.

 

[fowllife]

I would also say try to stick with JD, or NH. If that 315 has sat outside I would keep on looking, but it may be worth it if you can get it for less. If the knotters have rusted up you could easily be talking a few hundred to fix them. Dont be affraid to get an older baler as long as it's in good shape. As Flusher said, try to make sure you can see it work. You can tell a lot about a baler by looking at the bales that it makes.

I had been half looking for a baler for awhile, and kind of had my heart set on a NH 27x series. Most of those are running in the $1500-$2500 range in my area, and are good balers for smaller acrage. But last weekend I found a NH#67 which was older then what I was looking for. But it made some nice looking bales, and with rebuilt knotters I just couldn't pass it up $500. I'll put her to the test on my second cutting and see how she does. I will probably upgrade in a year or two, but the 67 will serve as a cheap backup.

 

[foreman Etexas]

What are some the better model #s or is it just all of the JD and NH balers? I t has been setting outside going on 2yrs,Ill probaly try and look at it this weekend.What do you think the baler roughly should be worth,if its a descent baler.I know im not going to be able to see it run over there cause they isnt any hay to be baled,not good!! And the stuff I am wonting to at my place is burning up!!

 

[Barry Bowen]

Let me address your question on the JD side. In the early 60's they made the 14t and the 214t. Best just to stay away from these as parts are getting pretty hard to get any more. Late 60's was the 24t and the 224t. If they are in GOOD condition, shed kept and taken care of, the 24t is fine for the little bit you want to do, and the 224t will do a whole lot more than you need, but is a fine piece. There are some basic engineering differences between them. The 24 was the economy model, and the 224 was the professional model at the time. Next in the early 70's came the 336 and the 346. 336 is still a journeyman baler. Parts readily available, good capacity, sound machine. 346 was a few more stocks per minute, a wide pickup, squeezer doors in the chute, and 6 hay dogs instead of 3 like the 336. 336's can range from 500 to as high as 4000 of a really clean great unit. 346's range from 1500 to 6000. There are still thousands of these baler still working out in the field.

As to the one that has been sitting outside for a few years. RUN IN THE OTHER DIRECTION!!!!!! You are likely bitting off much more than you can handle. Especially if it was left out side with hay or straw in it. The rust will be massive and extremely damaging to what is left of the baler. If you had lots of experience working on them and you got if for a few hundred not thousand, maybe okay.

As to the difference in hay feeders on JD vs NH. JD uses the auger behind the pick up, and NH uses the feeder forks. Both work, but the operators ability is more important. Main advantage to the NH forks, you can bale corn fodder with it, but not with the JD auger.

Keep looking, you will find something, but you will likely not find it in time to do you much good this year. Set your sites on next year and spend the winter getting the baler ready. If you get a JD and need info or help with it feel free to ask, and I will do what I can.

 

[Dill]

Go for a 337 over the 336 you will thank yourself for getting the wider pickup.
Don't discount the IHs they are good balers, and usually cheaper than the green ones. I haven't had good luck with MF balers, but I have some neighbor's who swear by them.

 

[foreman Etexas]

Surely greatful for all the info.so far.I have worked for a custom baler before well about 10yrs ago but most of his stuff was newer,had to weld the roller back on the round baler NH top roller by myself pain in ***** but I enjoy doing alittle work on them but when it coming to the field not wonting to work more than bale. I did talk to him again and he said they put new knotters on it right before they parked it,said they desided just to not mess with squares anymore and just round everything.Why question is why wouldnt you just throw a tarp over it anyways!!


I know were a JD is in the barn but dont know if its 4 sale,guess it wont hurt to stop and ask.

 

[5030]

Well the fields are within the 300ac.that is not fenced and they are fields just here and there.I would have alot of$ tied up in fencing off the total 300ac.witch I would have to in order to get every field.Yes,it would be nice but I would also have to doze the fencelines off before fence is installed. I can get a older sickle cutter that my father-in-law will give me and I can pick a rake up. We have both JD and NH around here but I have found someone who has a old hayliner 315 but he wonts $3500 and it has been setting outside for cple years,but has only cple thousands bales.

Your last line should tell you something.... Sat outside. It's junk.

I had an old, I mean ancient NH 66 Hayliner that I kept around because it bailed well. but it was kept inside and maintained. The paint looked like a bad hair day but the mechanicals were top shelf and you could run it behind a small CUT so long as it had a 540 pto and 20 horsepower. I sold it to an older couple with a NH 25 horsepower Boomer that wanted to bail a few acres for their pet nag, ooops, I mean horse. 500 bucks and I delivered it, showed them the in's and out's of the machine and even gave them the original owners and shop manuals, probably worth more than the bailer was.

What I'm saying here is I'd buy an older NH over a JD because the infeed section is simpler and the knotters are the same on both. The JD will have more mechanics and consequently things to fail, whereas the NH will be mechanically simpler. People bragg about JD's infeed auger but if it's so good, then why isn't it used anymore?

Old bailers are bang-clank. By that, I mean, with an old square bailer, all the bushings are sloppy from use (and probably abuse and lax maintenance) and consequently all the parts, needles, wiper arms, bill hooks and jaws, actuator cams and all the intrinsic parts need to be an interference fit, in other words, touch in operation, or it won't tie. That's a fact of life and old bailers.

Never buy a bailer that's sat outside for a long time. That's not to say that a short duration outside, uncovered, is bad, because it's not. Long duration, in the elements, uncovered, causes mechanism's to sieze, chains to rust and grease to solidify, all rendering the bailer just another hunk of scrap, destined for the salvage yard.

 

[5030]

Likewise, like the JD guy says. I go to sleep counting slices on a NH bailer instead of sheep.

One thing holds pretty constant across all brands and that is knotter configuration. Actuation might vary a bit but knotter mechanics are pretty much the same.

 

[foreman Etexas]

Likewise, like the JD guy says. I go to sleep counting slices on a NH bailer instead of sheep.

One thing holds pretty constant across all brands and that is knotter configuration. Actuation might vary a bit but knotter mechanics are pretty much the same.

The JD I looked at today had alot of rust on the inside,looks like you would have to rebuild the chute part. Looked good from a far but far from good,couldnt read the model number.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

After 40+ years of square bales, I've finally made the switch to big rounds this year, but REFUSE to part with my Deere 336. I've owned a couple New Holland balers. (273 and 315) No complaints, but once I tried a 336, the New Holland was relegated to back up baler....then sold. I found New Holland parts to be more expensive and a little slower to reach my door when parts weren't "stock items". No one can match Deere for parts.

My 336 has had about 35,000 bales on the counter since I bought it (4 years old when I got it) . I'd still depend on it if the round bales weren't so much easier for me, and my market now favors rounds.

 

[foreman Etexas]

After 40+ years of square bales, I've finally made the switch to big rounds this year, but REFUSE to part with my Deere 336. I've owned a couple New Holland balers. (273 and 315) No complaints, but once I tried a 336, the New Holland was relegated to back up baler....then sold. I found New Holland parts to be more expensive and a little slower to reach my door when parts weren't "stock items". No one can match Deere for parts.

My 336 has had about 35,000 bales on the counter since I bought it (4 years old when I got it) . I'd still depend on it if the round bales weren't so much easier for me, and my market now favors rounds.

I have to put up atleast 300 squares(horses &calfs) and my father-in law needs around 2 to 300 what ever I get him(he has show lambs).I have been makin squares on the 3rd cutting maybe half the 30ac.,but I would rather be able to turn cows on all so I go long before I start putting out hay and gives the other pastures relief time. Anyways ill be looking I will try and get pictures of my finds.Thanks yall!

 

[5030]

Any older bailer will have rust, it's where the rust is, that's important. A rusty bale case with pits is a sure sign it was kept in the elements as well as rusty chains and sprockets.

Sheet metal gets scratched and paint fades, especially NH red, it fades to rusty red...lol but then JD green fades to lime.

When I look at a bailer on a dealers lot or a private owner, the first thing I look at is the bale case or in the side doors on a round bailer. I look for chaff and where it is and how old it is.... old moldy chaff is acidic and eats metal nicely, however, a really clean bailer with no chaff means it was pressure washed, a no-no. Pressure washing a bailer, especially a square bailer and then putting it up is an invitation for rusty bearing surfaces and frozen joints. Again if washed, I look for grease oozing from moving points. No grease means the bailer wasn't maintained properly.

Bailers love grease and oil, keeps them running smooth and doing what tyey are supposed to do, bale.

Old or new, a bailer is an important investment and you don't want a malfunctioning bailer when it's time to bale.

Around these parts, rounds are the norm for cattle people but horse people want small squares, they can't handle rounds for one thing and most have overhead lofts in their barns for hay storage.

 

[foreman Etexas]

Any older bailer will have rust, it's where the rust is, that's important. A rusty bale case with pits is a sure sign it was kept in the elements as well as rusty chains and sprockets.

Sheet metal gets scratched and paint fades, especially NH red, it fades to rusty red...lol but then JD green fades to lime.

When I look at a bailer on a dealers lot or a private owner, the first thing I look at is the bale case or in the side doors on a round bailer. I look for chaff and where it is and how old it is.... old moldy chaff is acidic and eats metal nicely, however, a really clean bailer with no chaff means it was pressure washed, a no-no. Pressure washing a bailer, especially a square bailer and then putting it up is an invitation for rusty bearing surfaces and frozen joints. Again if washed, I look for grease oozing from moving points. No grease means the bailer wasn't maintained properly.

Bailers love grease and oil, keeps them running smooth and doing what tyey are supposed to do, bale.

Old or new, a bailer is an important investment and you don't want a malfunctioning bailer when it's time to bale.

Around these parts, rounds are the norm for cattle people but horse people want small squares, they can't handle rounds for one thing and most have overhead lofts in their barns for hay storage.

Well this is how this year hay production is going for me,my 30ac.usually makes atleast 60 bales and has made up to 120(with good rains) well I put up 31 bales last month and now dont see even making a second cutting.If it doesnt change going to have to turn the cows in it. I have already been feeding last yrs square bales(what I have left maybe 30) mite last a cple weeks. I went cple weeks ago and picked up 135 bales all he had ($4.50 a bale) to put up and now thinking im going to have to feed them until I can find atleast 60 more round bales to make it threw winter.(Round bales are going for $80 to 125 a bale for coastal).I been trying to hang in there sold some calfs but I mite have to sell some mama cows(something I dont wont to do)but I guess its how it goes down on the farm. Anyways back to balers Im going to take pics of the hayliner maybe friday and post,thanks for the help!!

 

[Turbys_1700]

We've always run New Hollands and have always, and I mean always, kept them under a shed...
It is hard for me to fathom that someone would let a baler sit out in the weather...
Our old 277 is still in good working order and bales around 1500 bales a year...
Always been in a shed and always maintained...

 

[cowski]

i would rather have a newer deere.but i would not turn down a good mf 124 or a older nh.