Red Neck Muffler Repair.
- Thread starter crash325
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JDgreen227
Super Member
If that is duct tape in the center, I suggest it be removed after the rest of the screws are installed. Amazes me sometimes how long today's exhaust systems last compared to older models. I had an '85 Ford Crown Vic and it went thru a system in about three or four years, bought a '92 Olds 98 and it still had the OEM exhaust system at 125,000 miles when we sold it in late 2004.
I bet the muffler shops just HATE the carmakers for killing a big chunk of their business.
OP
crash325
Elite Member
No self respecting Red Neck could do anything without some Duct Tape. :thumbsup:
groundcover
Elite Member
What, no beer cans ??:laughing:
johnrex62
Platinum Member
Only usable if you have some of the old steel beer cans. Aluminum just doesnt have the staying power needed.:thumbsup:
JB4310
Super Member
I just did one myself, nowhere near the advanced repair of yours :laughing: I just got a tube of that high heat steel repair putty and battered it on.
Mine had rust thru at an end seam so there was no way to put a steel patch on it. The material cost 4 bucks, I really had no expectation it would work, but figured it was worth a shot, it was in a hard to reach spot, just enough room to get my hand/fingers in.
Let it set overnight and it worked great
When I was young and had no money, some of my smart arse friends called me Hillbilly, cause of my unorthodox repairs. Wood screws, duct tape and baling wire was on everything I owned
If I had self tapping metal screws and a battery powered drill/ driver back then, I could of done miracles :laughing:
JB
Mine had rust thru at an end seam so there was no way to put a steel patch on it. The material cost 4 bucks, I really had no expectation it would work, but figured it was worth a shot, it was in a hard to reach spot, just enough room to get my hand/fingers in.
Let it set overnight and it worked great
When I was young and had no money, some of my smart arse friends called me Hillbilly, cause of my unorthodox repairs. Wood screws, duct tape and baling wire was on everything I owned
If I had self tapping metal screws and a battery powered drill/ driver back then, I could of done miracles :laughing:
JB
OP
crash325
Elite Member
I just did one myself, nowhere near the advanced repair of yours :laughing: ( Nothing but High Tech around here ) I just got a tube of that high heat steel repair putty and battered it on.
Mine had rust thru at an end seam so there was no way to put a steel patch on it. The material cost 4 bucks, I really had no expectation it would work, but figured it was worth a shot, it was in a hard to reach spot, just enough room to get my hand/fingers in.
Let it set overnight and it worked great
When I was young and had no money, some of my smart arse friends called me Hillbilly, cause of my unorthodox repairs. Wood screws, duct tape and baling wire was on everything I owned
If I had self tapping metal screws and a battery powered drill/ driver back then, I could of done miracles :laughing:
JB
When about 14 / 15 we put twin straight pipes on a 37 Ford. Old pipe, frozen juice cans, bike inner tube to seal them up. Those pipes lasted through 2 engines. Of course we used some bailing wire (off of hay bails) - but did not know about duct tape.
clemsonfor
Super Member
I too am guessing the duck tape was just to get the clamps on, im sure you realize it will burn off. That is a flowmaster or a copy, you will be able to weld on them if you have enough solid metal.
Of course not to redneck if you have them on!
As to the lasting ability of the new stuff. My 1997 Saturn with 204,000 miles is still on all the original exhaust system.
My ranger is on the second muffler i have gone through. I beleive the first or second muff i burned out, i pulled an aftermarket one in the junkyard when i first was married about 5 yrs ago. It lasted till today and has so many holes in it. None of the exhaust really makes it to the tail pipe! The manifold burned out about 278,000 miles and i put a new on of those on. Im guessing the 1990 ranger had some old quality and new quality?
Those of you wearing out mufflers every 3 years are not driving far enough, maybe less than 5 miles each trip!
Of course not to redneck if you have them on!
As to the lasting ability of the new stuff. My 1997 Saturn with 204,000 miles is still on all the original exhaust system.
My ranger is on the second muffler i have gone through. I beleive the first or second muff i burned out, i pulled an aftermarket one in the junkyard when i first was married about 5 yrs ago. It lasted till today and has so many holes in it. None of the exhaust really makes it to the tail pipe! The manifold burned out about 278,000 miles and i put a new on of those on. Im guessing the 1990 ranger had some old quality and new quality?
Those of you wearing out mufflers every 3 years are not driving far enough, maybe less than 5 miles each trip!
RoMad
Platinum Member
Looks like a great job to me. I have done a few muffler patches by welding the patch on. If you use a good patch you can put little spot welds on with 3/32 6011. Like others, I haven't done one in a long time because they last so long now.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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i've used a soup can and pop rivits to patch one before..
soundguy
soundguy
OP
crash325
Elite Member
i've used a soup can and pop rivits to patch one before..
soundguy
Darn it! Wish I had thought of that. :laughing: here come the Pop Rivet's to finish up the job. :thumbsup:
I might have gas welded it, but my tanks are empty, :laughing:
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
i'm not good at gas welding.. braze and solder and arc welder yes.
but the pop rivits and some hight temp red and a can of campbells does the trick..
soundguy
but the pop rivits and some hight temp red and a can of campbells does the trick..
soundguy
JB4310
Super Member
I once made a set of rear fenders for my 1950's 4x4 wyllis step side pickup out of corrugated garbage barrels :laughing: Driving that thing around a middle class town will earn you a reputation as the local hillbilly
My buddies called it the Walton wagon, this was already the late 70's and it stood out like a sore thumb, especially with it's split windshield, cow catcher grill and all painted by hand with a BRUSH!
JB.
My buddies called it the Walton wagon, this was already the late 70's and it stood out like a sore thumb, especially with it's split windshield, cow catcher grill and all painted by hand with a BRUSH!
JB.
JDgreen227
Super Member
I once made a set of rear fenders for my 1950's 4x4 wyllis step side pickup out of corrugated garbage barrels :laughing: Driving that thing around a middle class town will earn you a reputation as the local hillbilly
My buddies called it the Walton wagon, this was already the late 70's and it stood out like a sore thumb, especially with it's split windshield, cow catcher grill and all painted by hand with a BRUSH!
JB.
Hand painted...reminds me of the '65 Pontiac Catalina my brother purchased back in about 1978, it had been hand painted a cream color with a brush. The body was almost rust free although the car had gone thru a dozen Michigan winters and I always wondered if the thick paint had helped preserve it.
OP
crash325
Elite Member
I once made a set of rear fenders for my 1950's 4x4 wyllis step side pickup out of corrugated garbage barrels :laughing: Driving that thing around a middle class town will earn you a reputation as the local hillbilly
My buddies called it the Walton wagon, this was already the late 70's and it stood out like a sore thumb, especially with it's split windshield, cow catcher grill and all painted by hand with a BRUSH!
JB.
We must have went similar "schools" of "engineering".
I got a 1930 Chevy that at one time had been made into a "Dump Truck". It had seat & cowl when I got it. On the edge of town was some kind of a Bucket body. The Chevy frame was straight, the bucket was tapered. Not a problem, Stick a couple of 2x4's under it and bolt it down. I now had the bucket I'd always wanted. No worry about the frame & wheels sticking out the back. 2 Friends and I went to the Silver Bell park, to swim & drink. While I was busy (Drinking) I see them going back & forth on the highway in the bucket. When ask why the kept going bye, "Jerry didn't know where the brakes were."
When we left, being more than just a little drunk, Dennis said Jerry should drive as he had just tought him how to drive. A couple of times I looked up and steered him back onto the road. I didn't look up in time and we flew off a 30 /40 foot cut in the road. Didn't kill any of us, but was then end of the bucket.
:thumbsup:
JDgreen227
Super Member
You guys just made me think of a new thread to begin !!!
Agrantina
Platinum Member
I dont see what the problem is thats a uptown fix arounds here!
AndyG
AndyG
Larry Caldwell
Super Member
I once made a set of rear fenders for my 1950's 4x4 wyllis step side pickup out of corrugated garbage barrels :laughing: Driving that thing around a middle class town will earn you a reputation as the local hillbilly
My buddies called it the Walton wagon, this was already the late 70's and it stood out like a sore thumb, especially with it's split windshield, cow catcher grill and all painted by hand with a BRUSH!
JB.
Thanks for the tip. I tore the top off an old travel trailer and am building the frame into a utility trailer. Using barrel ends for fenders is just the ticket!
Egon
Epic Contributor
Real rednecks don't repair mufflers!:thumbsup:
JB4310
Super Member
I've got a new one ordered for my Subaru for tomorrow from Napa, was thinking about this thread, but this muffler is burnt out on the inside, no visible holes, so no red neck repair
JB
JB
