Ford 1715 Engine Problems

[Eugene Stiefel]

Bought a 1715 w/BH loader from a equipment broker in Louesiana about 5 months ago. Tractor is showing 1100 hours but was not running and very little history on it. After getting it home I have had to replace the housing for the hydraulic filter (broken), the thermostat housing (probably broken because of water collection in bellhousing), re-surface flywheel because of rust pitting, water pump, fuel shut-off valve, complete wiring harness, spindal bearings for front 4WD axel, front drive universal joint, and all belts and hoses. After getting it to running for a few minutes it poped out a freeze plug in the top of the head and flooded the crank case with antifreeze. Then after replacing the freeze plug and starting it back up (for about 15 min) I noticed it had a knock in the engine. I pulled the head off and saw some vertical scaring in the #3 cylinder and a tell-tell sign of a valve hitting the piston. Today I took the oil pan off and discovered that the #3 rod liner/bearing was completely gone. There is some gaulding of the crank and rod cap and lower part of the rod showing extream heat. I noticed that there is at least one water jacket near #3 almost completely stopped up with rust. I'm not sure if that had anything to do with the failure or not. It looks like the cylinder can be honed out and recovered but I'm not sure about the crank. That is my next step. I've got a lot of stuff to take off to get the crank out. At this point I'm wondering what the price would be for a short block from a salvage yard. I'm about to quit havine fun with this puppy. Any advice out there?

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

At this point IF you could find one I would get a used engine. The problem is these engines are harder to find than an honest politician.:laughing: If your crank is salvageable I would rebuild yours. This engine does not have sleeves so it would need to be bored. I would also replace the rods.

The problem with project tractors is that you reach a point where you have more invested in the tractor than what it is worth but you have to much invested in it to walk away. At this point I would stand back and evaluate the situation. What else are you going to have to repair. Have you inspected the trans and rear end. The hydraulic system. I am not trying to discourage you. I applaud your ambition. New parts for these small tractors are very expensive and used parts are hard to find. Hlere is a link that my help you. I have not dealt with these people before http://www.jtservicesinc.com/shibaura.html
Bill

 

[mike48130]

The crank's on these diesel engines are hardened. Usually you can have .10 ground off without issues, but if you need to go more, than you need to have it re-hardened. You local crankshop grinder should be able to tell you a place to have the crank hardened. I have had cranks welded and re-hardened with no issues. You need to have it polished after it is hardened to remove the carbon, but you crank place can do that.

I would be cautious of your freeze plugs blowing out and the rust. Did it have any antifreeze in it? You need to check the block for cracks.

I agree with the previous post about expensive parts. If you find anything else major wrong with the tractor after the engine, I expect the rebuilt engine would be worth some $$, and the other parts like 4x4 axles are usually big ticket items.

 

[Eugene Stiefel]

Well I'm back with more info After taking the block, crank, and head to the machine shop they gave me the bad news. The crank is cracked on the front and needs to be replaced instead of rebuilt. The block #3 cylinder is scared but can be bored. The head seems to be in good shape. Since it will be bored, I will need 3 new pistons, rings, pins and rods. I should at this point replace the oil pump also. The local Ford dealer tells me that the parts alone will cost over $3K. I gave $4500 for the tractor and loader and have already put about $2K of parts into it. The tractor transmission and hydraulics seemed to have worked OK during the short time I ran it. I haven't had any luck yet in finding a used crank or even a short block. I'm finding it really hard to put another $3500 into this bucket of bolts. Anyone out there know of a salvage lot with a engine? I'm sure glad this is not my mode of transportation or I would really have tired feet by now.

Eugene

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I came across the site one day while doing a search. I saved it thinking if I ever had any engine problems I might be able to get parts through them cheaper than NH. I have not purchaced any thing from them so I cannot say anything good or bad but it can't hurt to check with them.Industrial Engines And Parts, JT Services Inc. Perkins Diesel Engines, Isuzu Engines, GM Industrial, Wisconsin and Continental Diesel Engine Parts, Caterpillar, kWiet Power
Bill

 

[sweep]

Well I'm back with more info After taking the block, crank, and head to the machine shop they gave me the bad news. The crank is cracked on the front and needs to be replaced instead of rebuilt. The block #3 cylinder is scared but can be bored. The head seems to be in good shape. Since it will be bored, I will need 3 new pistons, rings, pins and rods. I should at this point replace the oil pump also. The local Ford dealer tells me that the parts alone will cost over $3K. I gave $4500 for the tractor and loader and have already put about $2K of parts into it. The tractor transmission and hydraulics seemed to have worked OK during the short time I ran it. I haven't had any luck yet in finding a used crank or even a short block. I'm finding it really hard to put another $3500 into this bucket of bolts. Anyone out there know of a salvage lot with a engine? I'm sure glad this is not my mode of transportation or I would really have tired feet by now.

Eugene

Boy, I can relate, Oh can I.

I'm restoring an old car-have way more money in it than it is worth and still have $15-18k to go to get it finished. What upsets me now is I can buy a restored one, say a 9/10 car for less money than I have in my current project due to the economy and people having to sell.

Yes, I'm sick. I wish I was only down $3000-4000....

Well good luck.

You might want to see what you can get by parting it out piece by piece. Sometimes it's best to walk away.

 

[jones6780]

Why replace the rods? I bought NH parts for my 1700 from Partspring, they had the best price I could find for new parts. The crank is the big ticket item, there should be one in a junk yard somewhere.

Russell

 

[PoorMansCat]

Why replace the rods?

X2!!...
If the Rods need machining get a quote from a reputable machine shop for the work and compare it to a set of rebuilt/new rods...
As for the #3 hole, have it sleeved and re-ring and reuse the pistons... its not a new tractor so I take it you're not really looking for a zero hour overhaul... just a good running dependable engine??

You might contact a company in the Houston Texas area called Coastal Casting Service... they can grind down your crankshaft, weld up the crack, then hard-chrome all the bearing surfaces back to a standard dimension... It will be as good as new or better when done..
If you can find any machine shop that works on large diesel and natural gas engines.... they can help with making a solid repair to your crankshaft..

 

[Arkhermit]

What other models will interchange ? I have a 1986 1510 block w/crank and the head. No pistons or rods.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Why replace the rods? Russell

One reason is metal fatigue. A lot of these shiburas have been known to break rods. The hr meter shows 1100 but I would guess it has a lot more than that concidering all the other things wrong.
Bill