Farm Pro 2420 stalls

[dangil1992]

Hi I have a farm pro 2420 the has always run great. I put some new Fuel in it the other day and now it stalls out. It just chokes and stops. it all happens very fast. when you wait for a few mins it will restart. I put #2 diesel in it becouse it was all that i can get around here. does anyone have any ideas for me i am going to go check filters in a few mins.

Thanks for you time

 

[greg_g]

#2 diesel is correct. Unless the fuel was contaminated, something else must have happened around that same time. Did you run the engine out of fuel? Did you change a fuel filter?

//greg//

 

[dangil1992]

it has plenty of fuel in it

 

[Diamondpilot]

You did not answer Gregs question? We need the full story to know were to start to help you.

Did you run it out of fuel?

If not is the fuel bowl clear?

If not shut the fuel off at the fuel bowl, remove the black rubber hose from the bottom of the injector pump. Its a banjo bolt. There should be a screen in there as a last filter. Now using a clean jug put the hose in it and turn back on the fuel. It should flow about 1 qt per minute. If not you have either a blocked in the tank filter that is mounted as part of the fuel shut off or you have a internally collapsed fuel hose.

Not trying to be a jerk here but we need all the info we can get. If you want you can call me on the phone and I will try to help you out.

Chris

 

[dangil1992]

no i did not run it out of fuel and never have.
i need a new filter.
and some how the sediment bowl is cracked and been dripping. it is the plastic one so i am going to find a new bowl and filter and drain the tank and clean it.
i will start there and see if that works and get back with you.
there was a little trash in the sediment bowl.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Do yourself a big favor and get a replacement fuel bowl and fuel line assembly from this guy. I have one and its worth the money. Its all better stuff and has a real glass bowl.

Jinma Dealer, Wood Chipper , Compact Jinma Tractors

As for the spin on fuel filter I have a Jinma 284. Not sure if its the same as yours? Jinma makes Farm Pro. I run a Fram P6503 for a fuel filter.

Your tractor is a Jinma 204. That 20HP, 4 wheel drive.

Take a look at this thread. This guy just went though the same issues.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/199011-farm-pro-2425-starts-but.html

Your fix will be just like his. The leaking fuel bowl is not good but not what the issue is more than likely. You have a clogged internal screen or collapsed fuel hose.

Like I said, this is a easy fix more than likely. Just follow what I have told you and you will find the problem.

Chris

 

[greg_g]

The cracked sediment bowl may have permitted air to replace fuel in the fuel filter. This is especially true if the in-tank screen is fully blocked. What's filling the fuel bowl may have drained backwards from the fuel filter. When you remove the sediment bowl from the tank, that little screen comes with it. Unfortunately, that means draining the tank first. Regardless of what else you find, the bowl needs to be replaced (I have a spare here if you can't find one locally).

//greg//

 

[dangil1992]

Thanks for all the help it will be a few days before i can get it all done.
I will also let all of you know what i find.

 

[dangil1992]

Ok i have the new fuel Filter on and everything is back together. I have checked all lines filters all of it looks to be in good shape.
It runs fine for a while get hot and stops.
Still acts like it is a fuel problem, but i am not a mechanic.
Will getting it to hot make it act like it runs out of fuel?

 

[greg_g]

Define "hot"

//greg//

 

[dangil1992]

about an hour of running it hard and the gauge almost gets into the 100 mark
when you give it a few mins and crank it back and take it easy it runs fine or seems to run fine anyway.

 

[Bob Rooks]

When was the last time you flushed the cooling system and blew out the radiator?

 

[dangil1992]

at the end of last summer when the fan broke and i had to replace the radiator and the fan

 

[Rich Waugh]

It could be that your fuel system is developing an air lock when the engine is hot. Perhaps something is expanding with the heat and allowing air to enter the fuel delivery system and creating a situation similar to the "vapor lock" that carbureted gasoline engines get from the fuel in the lines vaporizing from heat.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Well, the engine isn't getting all that hot (100°C = 212°F). I'm kinda leaning towards the fuel pressure regulating valve at this point. It's inside the banjo bolt that connects the fuel return line to the fuel injection pump. If that isn't operating properly the fuel can become aerated.

 

[Diamondpilot]

No matter what 100 C is too hot for these tractors. It should run about 80C or so.

Chris

 

[Bob Rooks]

80°C = 176°F, 85°C = 185°F, 90°C = 194°F, 95°C = 203°F.

Personally I like to see ~195°F for optimal thermal efficiency.
At 7psi there is no threat with these temps.

 

[greg_g]

Personally I like to see ~195ｰF for optimal thermal efficiency.
At 7psi there is no threat with these temps.

Personally I think you're wrong. Gasoline engine; low compression, high combustion temperature. Diesel engine; high compression, low combustion temperature. Different loads, different thermal efficiencies, hence different thermostat ranges.

Given that the OE temperature gauge doesn't indicate past 100C, it's hard to say what the actual coolant temperature might have been. Especially if the temp rise has been precipitated by a head gasket or similar failure. Even if not, it's still possible on an otherwise overheating diesel engine for cylinder temperature to rise to the point where pre-ignition begins to occur - which necessarily throws the detonation sequence out of time - causing engine stall or worse.

By the way, can you show a diagram or a photo of that fuel pressure regulating valve inside a banjo bolt ? I'm curious why I never encountered such a thing on the 4 Chinese tractors I've owned.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

at the end of last summer when the fan broke and i had to replace the radiator and the fan

When the fan broke, did it damage the fan shroud? I ask, because - when removing/replacing the radiator - it's very important to correctly reposition an undamaged fan shroud which in turn maximizes air flow through the heat exchanger (radiator core). A fan shroud that is missing/damaged/out of position will cause coolant temps to rise over time as you have described.

//greg//

 

[Bob Rooks]

Personally I think you're wrong. Gasoline engine; low compression, high combustion temperature. Diesel engine; high compression, low combustion temperature. Different loads, different thermal efficiencies, hence different thermostat ranges.
This is a technical issue of a different nature Greg, I'd be happy to discuss it with you in a separate thread.

Even if not, it's still possible on an otherwise overheating diesel engine for cylinder temperature to rise to the point where pre-ignition begins to occur - which necessarily throws the detonation sequence out of time - causing engine stall or worse.
Um, you can't get "pre-ignition" from a compression-ignition (diesel) engine. Last I heard nothing happens until fuel is injected.

By the way, can you show a diagram or a photo of that fuel pressure regulating valve inside a banjo bolt ? I'm curious why I never encountered such a thing on the 4 Chinese tractors I've owned.
They're kinda tricky to spot but the non-adjustable ones will have a dimple in the center of the hex (which is actually a steel ball pressed in), while the adjustable ones will have a slotted screw and lock nut. I'll see if these pics will work. You will find these on almost all small bore diesel engines, even Caterpillar. Diesel bugs can corrode the ball and seat to a point where the valve is useless and fuel flows freely in a closed loop.

At 1:28 through 1:33 you will see the fuel lift pump and a glimpse of the pressure regulator valve.
YouTube - 3412 start 2.mpg