Log splitter question ?

[thetooth]

I have a B7500 and would like to purchase a 3ph log splitter . Is it possible to run the log splitter off the valve block for the FEL ( with the FEL hose disconnected ) and use the FEL control arm to run the splitter ? Or do you need to plumb for a rear remote with a single acting valve ?


Thanks

 

[ejkessler]

I have a B7500 and would like to purchase a 3ph log splitter . Is it possible to run the log splitter off the valve block for the FEL ( with the FEL hose disconnected ) and use the FEL control arm to run the splitter ? Or do you need to plumb for a rear remote with a single acting valve ?


Thanks

You could probably due either. The issue is the flow rate through that system to the splitter will be okay but not great. It will cycle considerably slower than a normal splitter. You can get a PTO hydraulic pump to compensate but then you are talking quite a bit more money. How many cords do you plan to split? I have had a PTO splitter and several independently powered ones and would not do the PTO rig for more than 2 or 3 cords a year. Above that I would be getting an independent rig.

 

[thetooth]

I only split 1 to 2 cords a year . I am ok with it being slow just wasn't sure if it was possible to run off the FEL valve block . If I had to install rear remotes I think it would be a better buy to purchase a stand alone unit .

thanks

 

[Shmudda]

One to two cords per year.....thats maul work if you can physically do it!

Don't waste your money, those 3pt units are junk in my opinion!

Craig

 

[ejkessler]

I only split 1 to 2 cords a year . I am ok with it being slow just wasn't sure if it was possible to run off the FEL valve block . If I had to install rear remotes I think it would be a better buy to purchase a stand alone unit .

thanks

The pump of the FEL will be not make it worth your trouble for the fittings, valves and lines. Renting a unit for that amount would make more sense to me. You would be easily be into the whole rig for 800.00 to a grand by the time it is all said and done if you include the cost of a splitter. A 50.00 to 100.00 rental fee each year to rent a splitter would make more sense to me. It would take you 10 to 15 years at that rate to break even relatively speaking.

 

[Ductape]

Best option would be to run a power beyond loop to the rear of the tractor to power the splitter. It's the same you would do to power a backhoe. It would be possible to power a splitter off of your loader valve, but you'd have to bungee, or otherwise hold the valve open to send hydraulic pressure to the splitter valve....... just not the best option.

 

[korydz]

We shouldn't discourage anyone from buying equipment that they may not be able to justify...that is his wife's job. For hydraulic connection questions you should talk to Supermember kennyd. He got me pointed in the right direction. For a splitter, check out the Split-fire splitters. They have are dual action for splitting twice as quickly/efficiently. I generally do a cord per hour with a helper.

 

[thetooth]

Thanks for the tips . After a weekend of splitting wood and a sore shoulder I figured I wood ask .

I think I will keep my wedges and splitting maul sharp :thumbsup:

thanks

 

[grsthegreat]

i love my wood splitter. built it myself for a couple of hundred bucks. i installed a power beyond system on the tractor for other reasons though. i wanted a hydraulic swivel for my snowblower.

that was a must . so, since i had the remote in the back, why not a wood splitter. its so much nicer to split wood when i want to, not when i have to to get the unit back to the rental yard. i hate splitting wood, but this makes it bearable.

as far as using the FEL levers to run the splitter? im confused. you need a control lever down at the area your working. not up by the seat. personally id add the power beyond/rear remotes. youll thank me later. :laughing: :thumbsup:

i can split wood faster than the wife can get it stacked. so just because some people think there too slow, it all depends on how truly lazy you want to be.:drink:

 

[grnspot110]

My splitter is similar to grsthegreat's, originally built it for my JD 520 for $200. When I added the new hoses & control valve to use it on my JD 790, I spent another couple hundred. Can't get the power beyond kit anymore, so I just use long hoses & hook the the loader bucket connections, tie off the joy stick & use the control valve on the splitter. Slow, yes, but so am I! I'm not in any big hurry & work by myself anyway. ~~ grnspot

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

Ignore the skeptics...

Love my Powerhorse 3 pt splitter from Northern tool..See my thread

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/137152-new-3-point-logsplitter-cant.html

As a firefighter I'm tought on equipment, and expect performance...for my B series tractor this splitter does the job. (3-4 cords yearly) Worth the money and worth the effort to run the lines... You can run off the FEL or run 2 lines and creat a loop for the splitter (it has its own valve) Rear lines should be under a $100 cost.

If you are close to me (your profile says north east) Come check it out for yourself...

 

[grsthegreat]

My splitter is similar to grsthegreat's, originally built it for my JD 520 for $200. When I added the new hoses & control valve to use it on my JD 790, I spent another couple hundred. Can't get the power beyond kit anymore, so I just use long hoses & hook the the loader bucket connections, tie off the joy stick & use the control valve on the splitter. Slow, yes, but so am I! I'm not in any big hurry & work by myself anyway. ~~ grnspot

goes to show you, great minds think alike:thumbsup:

 

[grsthegreat]

My splitter is similar to grsthegreat's, originally built it for my JD 520 for $200. When I added the new hoses & control valve to use it on my JD 790, I spent another couple hundred. Can't get the power beyond kit anymore, so I just use long hoses & hook the the loader bucket connections, tie off the joy stick & use the control valve on the splitter. Slow, yes, but so am I! I'm not in any big hurry & work by myself anyway. ~~ grnspot

goes to show you, great minds think alike:thumbsup:.. also, who wants to be going fast while a 15 ton moving knife-edge is working around your fingers

 

[thetooth]

Ignore the skeptics...

Love my Powerhorse 3 pt splitter from Northern tool..See my thread

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/137152-new-3-point-logsplitter-cant.html

As a firefighter I'm tought on equipment, and expect performance...for my B series tractor this splitter does the job. (3-4 cords yearly) Worth the money and worth the effort to run the lines... You can run off the FEL or run 2 lines and creat a loop for the splitter (it has its own valve) Rear lines should be under a $100 cost.

If you are close to me (your profile says north east) Come check it out for yourself...

Thanks for the invite :thumbsup I am in Delaware ) and thanks for the link to your thread .

I am going to price out the hoses and compare it to a stand alone . We will see who wins the battle my sore shoulder or my wallet .

appreciate the info

 

[oakwoods]

Just to add my 2cents worth. I find the biggest advantage of the stand-alone splitter is that it allows me to place split pieces directly in the loader bucket. I have a Huskee splitter from TSC. It has a very comfortable waist high working position which is easy on the back. I just position the loader behind the splitter and move the wood right to the bucket. When the bucket is full, I drive the tractor to the wood rack for stacking. Being able to vary the bucket height also makes it easy on the back for stacking. I split and stack about 10 cords/year.
I paid $999.00 several years ago for the 22 ton splitter. I think the price remains the same.

 

[brandoro]

goes to show you, great minds think alike:thumbsup:.. also, who wants to be going fast while a 15 ton moving knife-edge is working around your fingers

Isn't that the truth. I looked at a splitter another guy had made before I made mine, it was really fast, I felt the need to count my fingers after it made the first stroke. Mine runs off the tractor and moves nice and slow but never stops, no matter how full of knots the wood is. I stack the split wood on the carryall, when it is full I get to take a nice drive up behind the shop and add the freshly split wood to the stack.
The tractor I have now has rear remotes to plug the splitter into but on my previous tractor I plugged the splitter into the bucket curl disconnects and bungeed the lever.

 

[grsthegreat]

Isn't that the truth. I looked at a splitter another guy had made before I made mine, it was really fast, I felt the need to count my fingers after it made the first stroke. Mine runs off the tractor and moves nice and slow but never stops, no matter how full of knots the wood is. I stack the split wood on the carryall, when it is full I get to take a nice drive up behind the shop and add the freshly split wood to the stack.
The tractor I have now has rear remotes to plug the splitter into but on my previous tractor I plugged the splitter into the bucket curl disconnects and bungeed the lever.

hay, cool idea.

i have a golf cart with a tilt bed to haul the firewood. The wife and i alternate between splitting and hauling. works fast, i have no complaints.
and i get to keep all my fingers

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

The 3 pt splitter is One less engine I need to maintain, drain the gas from or worry about the new fuel f ing it up...And if my tractor cant handle the extra couple hours a year I use to split then I don't want it...(for those who will argue about decreasing the value by adding hours..REALLY?)

 

[korydz]

Firefighter Kubota has it right (of course I'll agree with a fellow firefighter AND fellow Kubota owner). Gasoline is terrible stuff in engines that are used occasionally. As for the hours put on the tractor, come on, who among us is really in danger of wearing out our Kubotas? They are likely to outlast us.

The other consideration is noise. Small single cylinder gas engines are noisy in comparison to a humming little deisel. The tractor will usually be more fuel efficient as well, not that you'd burn enough for it to really matter.

Finally, with three point splitter, you have a built in height adjustment. Perfect if you tend to be short or tall, or have long or short arms, or just don't want to lift big logs as high. Getting the height just right makes a big difference to the body if you're putting in hours of splitting.

 

[RobbieBones]

Not to Hijack this thread but I wanted to ask almost the same question.

I blew the engine on my log splitter and was thinking if I could convert it to a 3pt hitch type?

I've been splitting 6 to 12 cords a year for ten years and it finally went.

Rob