Exhaust repairs

[suntreemcanic]

I have a Iseki TX1500F (Bolens G-174). It is a two cylinder diesel model and I was quoted $700 plus for a muffler. All I had left of my muffler was the pipes coming from the exhaust ports.

I fabricated new exhaust flanges, welded ports on, then welded a manifold on and attached a vertical muffler. I took pictures as I progressed, but I have no idea how to post them on here. Is there some guidance for this procedure?

 

[cowboy357]

I have a Iseki TX1500F (Bolens G-174). It is a two cylinder diesel model and I was quoted $700 plus for a muffler. All I had left of my muffler was the pipes coming from the exhaust ports.

I fabricated new exhaust flanges, welded ports on, then welded a manifold on and attached a vertical muffler. I took pictures as I progressed, but I have no idea how to post them on here. Is there some guidance for this procedure?

When you post or reply, scroll down below & click on the manage attachment button , that will bring up a new window where you can browse & upload pics from your computer .

 

[Sideways]

When you post or reply, scroll down below & click on the manage attachment button , that will bring up a new window where you can browse & upload pics from your computer .

What Cowboy said!

Can't wait to see it!

 

[suntreemcanic]

Test picture

 

[cowboy357]

Test picture

Pic worked . Looks like a great job on the exhaust fix as well . :thumbsup:

 

[Jeff Lary]

Better than factory i bet you enjoy watching and hearing that baby work i know i would. Great Job

 

[suntreemcanic]

How I did it. All I had to start with was the two exhaust pipes from the old muffler projecting out from the head. They were rusty and not parallel. I fabricated new flanges and welded 1 1/2" OD header pipes to the 1/4 " thick flanges. I used 2 inch square by 3/16" wall tube for the manifold and drilled the necessary ports on it. I used allen head screws to attach exhaust headers to head because their smaller diameter head afforded more room for a weld. I then positioned the manifold where I wanted it and tack welded it. Then I clamped the exhaust flanges to a heavy rigid piece of steel and welded the exhaust ports to the manifold. I welded only 1/4" beads and skipped around, not getting any place real hot. This method may not give the perfect looking weld but it helps control warping and you do not blow holes in the thinner material. Pick out a muffler before you start. Then you can use it for clearances and diameter of pipe extending out of manifold. I used a Walker tractor muffler #22046 and cost $39.00 at the local auto parts. This muffler is 1 5/8" ID inlet so I had to wrap another piece of exhaust pipe around the 1 1/2" to get 1 5/8". A 1 1/2" ID inlet muffler would be better.

 

[suntreemcanic]

Continuation, things to think about. The exhaust port pipes have to be long enough to afford clearance of the hood and to clear other equipment on tractor but not extend excessively because this will cause excessive strain on the header bolts and header pipe welds. So saying select a muffler that will do the job (not a heavy car muffler you had from a previous project). I have about 12 hours of use on the exhaust system and I have no leaks and no vibrations, the muffler is quite rigid. If someone needs this system and does not have the skills or tools I would be available to use my tractor as a template and build one for them. I want to thank my lovely wife for teaching me the art of moving pictures from my computer to a forum like this. I am available for any questions.

 

[cowboy357]

Great posts,pics & explanations suntreemcanic. Thanks so much for taking the time to post them here , I'm sure they will be very helpfull to others here . Great job , :thumbsup:

 

[Sideways]

Great job!
Does the manifold sitting above the piping for the hydraulic pump build up to much heat in the hyd fluid?

 

[suntreemcanic]

I do not think there will be a problem with the hydraulic oil getting hot. There is 4 inches of open space between the exhaust manifold and the hydraulic oil return pipe. I can take a picture from the side if you would like.

 

[PILOON]

Great alternative solution to spending $700.
Good looking job as well.

I too have fabbed up a couple of DIY systems over the years, for sure a dyno test would not confirm optimum performance but then for $$ in pocked 97% is perfectly acceptable, and that is not counting the satisfaction of a DIY solution.

Was mentioned a possible heat problem, easy cure; couple of spacers and tack weld a heat shield about 1/4" away from the manifold.

I do notice your outlet is upwards facing.
Rather than the tin can cover you might wish to add a flapper valve to keep out water.

 

[Sideways]

I do not think there will be a problem with the hydraulic oil getting hot. There is 4 inches of open space between the exhaust manifold and the hydraulic oil return pipe. I can take a picture from the side if you would like.

Good deal!