New (to me) L39 TLB

[WALT]

But I do have a couple of questions for any other L39 owners.
1) just back chains or chains on all 4 wheels?
2) what chains as their appears to be no room between the tire and fender at the back. Maybe wheel spacers?
3) front snow blade or inverted pto snowblower

MBradley:

Welcome to the forum. I bought an L-39 when the L-39 was introduced by Kubota, and have 600 hrs. on it. Do a search of my posts and you may find some of them useful to you.

1. I bought chains for all 4 tires after some close calls on icy hills, but the rear chains are the most important. I use the spiked forestry chains from tirechainsrequired.com. They will need to be cut and adjusted to the tractor, along with using the H/D chain tensioners. The front chains are marginal due to the fact that your front axle load varies while plowing. Make use of your dual brake pedals to assist with your steering.

2. As stated, the rear chains do fit without spacers.

3. I have a snow plow blade that quick attaches to the loader by removing the bucket. I leave the B/H on for the rear weight as well as being able to use it to pull yourself out backwards if you get stuck.

While some here while give you a different opinion, the R-4 tires do not grip well in deep snow or ice, especially on inclines. I have found that plowing down hill, even with the chains works much better than not.

My photos are not on this computer, so search my old posts for plow/chain photo's.

WALT

 

[mbradey]

Thanks for the advice Walt. I should have thought of using the brakes to steer but i guess this is all part of the learning curve. Knowing that your using back chains with no problems I will order a set. How do your front chains work? Don't they hit the metal pice that guards the exast pipe when you turn right? I will search for your pictures. Thanks again.

DoeLake - Your very close to me...I'm on Six Mile Lake.

 

[Stonehaller]

It was very easy. Just 2 big pins, trick is to play with the backhoe until the pins unload and will turn and pull out. Took me about 1/2 and hour with no manual. It should take me about 10 minutes next time as last weekend was the first time the backhoe was ever off.

Put some grease or anti-seize on the pins before you put the hoe back on. Others have had trouble with the pins getting rusted and stuck.

 

[WALT]

mbradey;

The front chains are 2 link but don't provide much for traction as previously stated but I have them so I use them. The rear chains provide the traction for me.
If you're not driving on pavement, the forestry type chains are far superior to the ladder chains. They take some time to install, but I put them on in November and remove them in April, once a year. If all my driving was off pavement, I would leave them on year round.

I attached 4 pictures of the front & rear chains installed. I have not had the clearance issue on the front chains as you stated.
The key is to keep the chains tight so the no loose or slack chain can contact anything.

A friend of mine related a story of his buddy running loose chains for 5 minutes until both his rear fenders were tore off. I don't remember the type/model of tractor.
By the time you know the chains have caught, its too late. Remember that this is a 7000 lb machine, with that momentum bad things can happen quickly.

As this is your first tractor, take it slow to develop a feel for the machine, especially when using the loader. I try to always keep my hand on the loader joystick when I have something in the bucket/grapple, ready to drop it if needed. Also be in 4WD as a full bucket load shifts your weight from the rear axle (brakes) to the front axle. (no brakes)

WALT

 

[jmanatee2]

mbradey;
The key is to keep the chains tight so the no loose or slack chain can contact anything.

A friend of mine related a story of his buddy running loose chains for 5 minutes until both his rear fenders were tore off. I don't remember the type/model of tractor.
By the time you know the chains have caught, its too late. Remember that this is a 7000 lb machine, with that momentum bad things can happen quickly.

I definitely agree with tightening chains. On my Case 680 I had to remove the fenders because the chains were hitting the bolts that held them on. I only drove a short distance with them "Just Clicking" and before I knew it I broke the side chain and when I looked closer several of the cross link hooks were badly bent. Took quit a while to fix the chains back up.

Also it doesn't seem to matter how tight they are once you drive they will need the tensioners re-tightened. Possibly a couple times.

Tight chains will last longer too.


One other thing,... Be careful with V-Bar chains on asphalt. If you spin you will really dig it up.