Need a 2210 Alternator and Belt

[kzack]

Hi All,

I need to buy an alternator and serpentine belt for a 2210D and of course need to buy it tomorrow if at all possible. Does anyone have any cross reference to an automobile that will match up? Any part numbers? I've read in the archives that a Datsun alternator might work. Can anyone confirm this or provide more details?

Thanks in advance, Keith

 

[careyo63]

On my notes 72 Nissan 510 for a YM2000.Didn't have to replace mine but I know a local store tested my Volt Reg. as a Nissan/Datsun.

Carey


Just checked with Hoye and Yes they use the same one. Just take the belt with you and see if they can't match it. Measure your pulley's wth the Alt. set at the shortest Pos. for the Length.

 

[normde2001]

How do you know your alternator is bad?

 

[kzack]

I know it's bad because it seized up and would not turn under load. That in turn burnt the belt. I took it out this morning and the pulley makes noise when it turns and fits loosely. It charged the battery just fine, but seems the bearing or whatever inside has failed.

Thanks, Keith

 

[normde2001]

I know it's bad because it seized up and would not turn under load. That in turn burnt the belt. I took it out this morning and the pulley makes noise when it turns and fits loosely. It charged the battery just fine, but seems the bearing or whatever inside has failed.

Thanks, Keith

Yep, no doubt about it. Normally it's the regulator that fails. Haven't checked the Nissan prices lately, but those bearings are easily acquired and replaced.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Does the mechanical voltage regulator have to be polarized when you replace the alternator (or generator as it's called in my service manual)?

 

[normde2001]

Does the mechanical voltage regulator have to be polarized when you replace the alternator (or generator as it's called in my service manual)?

Not that I ever heard about. The thing that, I think, is unique to this alt/reg setup is that the rectifier is in the alt., so when testing for raw voltage it will be 20-30 DC volts.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Not that I ever heard about. The thing that, I think, is unique to this alt/reg setup is that the rectifier is in the alt., so when testing for raw voltage it will be 20-30 DC volts.

Reason I asked is that on older cars, you had to do that when replacing the generator or the voltage regulator in order to get the voltage regulator to excite the field.

There's a tractor shop about 30 miles from me that rebuilds generators, alternators and starters and said they can rebuild my alternator for 125.00. I'm trying to figure out if it is worth doing that vs the other options.

1) replace both alternator and voltage regulator with the solid state style
2) replace the alternator with a car style and do away with the VR
3) rebuild the alternator and keep the current setup.

What is your opinion on the best route for the money and reliability?

 

[normde2001]

Reason I asked is that on older cars, you had to do that when replacing the generator or the voltage regulator in order to get the voltage regulator to excite the field.

There's a tractor shop about 30 miles from me that rebuilds generators, alternators and starters and said they can rebuild my alternator for 125.00. I'm trying to figure out if it is worth doing that vs the other options.

1) replace both alternator and voltage regulator with the solid state style
2) replace the alternator with a car style and do away with the VR
3) rebuild the alternator and keep the current setup.

What is your opinion on the best route for the money and reliability?

Such a deal. You should jump tright on that:confused2:. So, how do you know your alternator is bad?

 

[Gary Sweat]

Such a deal. You should jump tright on that:confused2:. So, how do you know your alternator is bad?

About a year ago the alternator light started staying on and would sometimes flicker a little. If I revved the engine all the way up it would sometimes go out. Checked the voltage when running and it was 12.9 to 13 volts at high rpm and around 12 volts at lower rpm. I had the voltage regulator checked and they didn't find any problems. I replaced the brushes but noticed that the armature under the brushes was worn way down and no gaps left between them like you normally see. I told this to the repair shop and they said they could fix that.

 

[clemsonfor]

About a year ago the alternator light started staying on and would sometimes flicker a little. If I revved the engine all the way up it would sometimes go out. Checked the voltage when running and it was 12.9 to 13 volts at high rpm and around 12 volts at lower rpm. I had the voltage regulator checked and they didn't find any problems. I replaced the brushes but noticed that the armature under the brushes was worn way down and no gaps left between them like you normally see. I told this to the repair shop and they said they could fix that.

These things seem to have gremlins that like to mess with the light. Make sure all the connections are clean and tight. Mine will flicker every now and then esp at low rpms , butw will charge. Its always over 12.5 or 13 i beleive. Yours i think is fine, but thats me. If its putting out 13-14 at high rpms that seems fine to me since you dont really need the battery once running and unless you idle around all the time your battery will still charge.

Cary had a problem similar to mine, Disco Alt light. I beleive he reran all the wires and redid and cleaned all conections to fix it, i just havent got around to it.

 

[normde2001]

ADVANCE AUTO has that alternator for $32.

 

[Gary Sweat]

These things seem to have gremlins that like to mess with the light. Make sure all the connections are clean and tight. Mine will flicker every now and then esp at low rpms , butw will charge. Its always over 12.5 or 13 i beleive. Yours i think is fine, but thats me. If its putting out 13-14 at high rpms that seems fine to me since you dont really need the battery once running and unless you idle around all the time your battery will still charge.

Cary had a problem similar to mine, Disco Alt light. I beleive he reran all the wires and redid and cleaned all conections to fix it, i just havent got around to it.

The other problem is all of the studs on the back of the alternator are very rusted. Short of taking a grinding wheel to them, I don't know how to get them clean. That may be the problem.

 

[Gary Sweat]

ADVANCE AUTO has that alternator for $32.

Do you know if that is a single wire version? I had read somewhere that you have to rev the engine up to get that type to start charging.

 

[California]

Do you know if that is a single wire version? I had read somewhere that you have to rev the engine up to get that type to start charging.

I doubt it.

The whole point of putting a '72 Datsun alternator and regulator on a YM2000 (and maybe a YM2010) is that Yanmar used the same identical Hitachi components as Datsun. (Nissan, now). The regulators are identical, and the alternator Yanmar chose differs only in output, 15 amps vs 35 for Datsun. The alternators are identical externally.

I think the single-wire alternator is Delco, costs 3x as much, needs a different mount and probably belt, and needs adapting your wiring, while the Datsun-spec parts bolt in like-for-like. I did that in 2003 and it's working fine.

 

[normde2001]

Do you know if that is a single wire version? I had read somewhere that you have to rev the engine up to get that type to start charging.

No, direct replacement, I think just more amperage. BTW, that alternator is also for the YM1900.

 

[Gary Sweat]

ADVANCE AUTO has that alternator for $32.

Thanks, there's an Advance auto store about 25 miles from me so I'll see if they can get one. A replacement from Hoye is about 125.00 plus shipping so about all I would save in rebuilding is the shipping costs plus knowing it will bolt back up. Not all of the parts I've gotten lately are direct replacement without having to modify something to make it work.

 

[clemsonfor]

There are a few secret Advance coupons online right now i clicked some add to get them and printed them out. some of these have been good for weeks.

P20 gives you 20% off any order regardless of amount
big5 gives you $5 off $15 or more
A123 gives you $20 off $50 or more
Big30 gives you $30 off orders of $75 or more
Big40 gives you $40 off orders of $100 or more
big50 gives you $50 off orders of $200 or more


Also remember that you can get orders of $75 shipped to your door for free.

Something i learned is that if the part is an order part there is no option to ship to store, you have to pay to ship it to your house if you dont meet the $75 threshold for free shipping. I have been thinking of stuff to buy to get to that mark. Best option is to make multiple orders using the big30 or big40 code and just order $75 on each one and make miltiple orders is able, that way these codes work out to 40% off the closer you stay to the $75 and $100 mark for these codes respectively.

I know the p20 code has been valid for at leat 2 weeks. Tip you cannot buy any "il change specials"and stil get these discounts, they trump these codes for some reason??

 

[normde2001]

Here are alternators by part#, a 35 and 50 amp, (depending on whether you have air conditioning:laughing. Of course, we adult males don't have to be reminded to hang onto the core until you are sure everything is exact, including the pulley.
Clemson, what site has the printable coupons? I'm in Advance Auto a couple times a week.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Here are alternators by part#, a 35 and 50 amp, (depending on whether you have air conditioning:laughing. Of course, we adult males don't have to be reminded to hang onto the core until you are sure everything is exact, including the pulley.
Clemson, what site has the printable coupons? I'm in Advance Auto a couple times a week.

If I looked at these right, they only have 2 wire hookups (A and E). Not sure how that will work with my 4 wire voltage regulator