stump speech

[mroldstyle]

Just curious, if you have a backhoe why didn't you just dig them out?

 

[jake98]

Just curious, if you have a backhoe why didn't you just dig them out?

It's an experiment, as much as anything. It should be alot quicker than digging.
My personal reasons? the big JD is 2 wd, ground is muddy, BX is too small for that, JD blows hoses, and I'm too lazy to fix them all the time.

 

[beppington]

Just curious, if you have a backhoe why didn't you just dig them out?

I'm sure it's quicker, easier, & usually less of a mess.

 

[jake98]

I'm wondering about the actual forces involved now. If I could do it with single chain on each end it would make it alot simpler. I need a way to set the pressure to the chain strength to avoid breaking expensive chain. I guess the gauge and the throttle will do it.

 

[J_J]

As far as the pressure gage, you can tee it in anywhere. For a permanent mounting, I would tee it in before the first valve. Then you can use it as a reference, and to trouble shoot your hyd system.

If you did the solenoid valve thing, you could stand off to the side or close up to adjust the chain. A toggle switch would extend and retract the hyd cyl.

Your cyl has a lot more force than the chain. This is grade 100 specs

http://www.1st-chainsupply.com/chain/gr43_spec.htm

 

[J_J]

If you have 2000 psi, and your cyl, you have a pull force of 21,598 lbs, and if you have 3000 psi, you have 32,398 lbs.

How old were those stumps?

 

[kattywumpus]

Jake98, as I'm sure you know the greatest risk with this method of stump removal is the chain flying off the stump as it tilts. That said I had removed many stumps using this method and prefer to using a heavy cable since it cut into the stump and is less likely fly off the stump. If you're going to remove many stumps using the method you want to consider building a log winch frame/shield for your 3-point hitch and mount the hydraulic cylinder it. Design the frame to dig into the ground. This will create one anchor point that will not fail and is easy the move around and should save you time.

 

[jake98]

the one that came out was cut last year. I think to make it simple I'll put the gauge right on the rear remote line. Maybe just put a QA on it and plug it in temp. before I use a certain size chain to get an rpm setting that works for that setup.
J J you're the guy to ask, how variable is the pressure going to be by changing the rpm? am I going to get a good selection, or is it more of an on/off thing? thanks.

 

[Dead Horse]

Jake, A guy who has decades in municipal equipment gave me a neat tip that not only helped me purge the long hyd hose lines for a project I did recently, but it also makes the lines, hoses useful for other things, easier to move and store AND protects the integrity of the hyd "implement" you just created.

the tip: install quick disconnects in each line a couple of feet from the cylinder, male on one line, female on the other. each stub hose on the cylinder has the opposing male or female fitting, ie one of each, so they too can be connected up to eachother when not using the cylinder.

That way, 1) to purge the new lines, you connect the ends of the "extension lines together and cycle the valve at the tractor, until all the air is out of the whole circuit. When you disconnect the lines at the implement end, they are full of clean filtered oil.

Then when done 2)The hoses can be disconnected from the cylinder and reconnected and then rolled up as one piece with the male and female connectors connected to keep eachother clean until the next use, and the length of hose is seperate from the cylinder so it can be moved easy and perhaps used for some other task. Finally as I mentioned, connecting the hose stubs coming from the cylinder keeps them clean ADN out of the way while you handle, move and store that device.

I thought is was a very slick idea and it sure did make me feel better about the purging process with the new hose. Not only that but I can leave the hose length attached to the tractor, sans the plow and cylinders, without worring about accidently hitting a hyd lever and "loading up" a dead headed line. For me is saves having to unthread the extension hyd lines off the tractor in the winter when I take the power angle plow off the FEL every once in a while to use the loader.

Also, I second the idea about getting a length of square, 120 grade, logging, choker chain. I use the stuff with my Farmi JL 601 logging winch and once it bites into a log, it ain't letting go, no matter what....... ONE WRAP.

 

[jake98]

Jake98, as I'm sure you know the greatest risk with this method of stump removal is the chain flying off the stump as it tilts. That said I had removed many stumps using this method and prefer to using a heavy cable since it cut into the stump and is less likely fly off the stump. If you're going to remove many stumps using the method you want to consider building a log winch frame/shield for your 3-point hitch and mount the hydraulic cylinder it. Design the frame to dig into the ground. This will create one anchor point that will not fail and is easy the move around and should save you time.

How did you remove stumps like that, did you chain the tractor to another tree? I was just out there trying to drag the stump out to get rid of it and I can't even get enough traction to pull it out of the hole.
Positioning of the cylinder is looking like a hand-truck job now. It was just about what I could lift untill I put the plates and shackles on it, now it's hurt the back territory.. I guess the fluid weighs something too.
I need the hooks to arrive, had I pulled it completely out of the hole I'm sure I'd be able to drag it down the hill.