How to determine if downed tree worth cutting

[The Haymaker]

Ash is one of the best "common" firewoods. I have never heard ANYONE say that it is bad firewood.

Yep, it was ash, and yes, it throws out the btu's. BUT, when it comes to stocking the stove and having something left in the morning, ash is a bad firewood. Give me some good oak.

 

[beenthere]

Ash, relative to red or white oak, isn't as good. But that doesn't mean it is bad. Just less good.

I've heated the house with only ash the last two seasons. The trees are straight, very little taper, and very few limbs to get in the way when blocking up the tree.

Bottom line on any wood, is the weight and the moisture content. For the same moisture content, get nearly the same heat (btu) per pound of wood. If the wood is rotten, it will weigh less and can easily tell there will be no heat if tossing in a featherweight chunk of wood to burn. Sort it out in the woods and don't mess with it if rotten (on the inside).

 

[Dozernut]

Easiest way to tell if a downed tree is sound is to hit it with a hammer. If the tree is sound it will ring, if it is bad the log will just make a dull thud.

 

[/pine]

JMHO...honestly I can't believe this thread has continued to this length...all you have to do is make a cut or two and see if the wood is worthy of cutting,splitting,hauling and storing...

...if wood is in short supply even trees that are "half gone" (pulpy) can be used as fuel for heating...it just burns faster...

 

[lhfarm]

JMHO...honestly I can't believe this thread has continued to this length...all you have to do is make a cut or two and see if the wood is worthy of cutting,splitting,hauling and storing...

...if wood is in short supply even trees that are "half gone" (pulpy) can be used as fuel for heating...it just burns faster...

I did a rotten (no pun intended) job of phrasing my question, but as always happens folks here could see beyond that. I could tell if the wood was solid by a couple of cuts, but wonder how well it would burn. The only test I know for that was to actually try burning some pieces. The chunks of wood in the wagon are very heavy. I would have expected trees that have been down a few years to have lost most of the moisture.

I've learned that I don't need to worry about getting all the downed trees cut this winter and won't kill myself trying to do so. I also learned that some locust tress I've been ignoring should be in my pile too.

So while I agree my post was pretty lame and not deserving of a lot of responses, I'm glad folks replied anyway.

 

[beenthere]

................ The only test I know for that was to actually try burning some pieces. The chunks of wood in the wagon are very heavy. I would have expected trees that have been down a few years to have lost most of the moisture.
...........

About as many responses answering your question and trying to help others out who answer but don't know either.

Regards your expectation, the answer is no. Wood needs to be split to lose the moisture. Bucking to length helps as most woods dry more quickly from the end grain than across the grain. In log form, drying off the ground will take years. For air drying thick lumber, the rule of thumb is one year per inch of thickness. Can apply that rule to logs as well and see that 10 years for a 10" diam log would be an indicator of time.

Also, wet wood will burn...just don't get the heat from it that dry wood will give you.

Bottom line...loading wet wood in a wood burner, or rotten wood, will net less heat than the same volume of dry sound wood. And then there is everything in between.