Kioti DK35SE purchase

[PhilipLoyd]

Well, after much lurking and feverish reading I made my first tractor purchase of a KIOTI DK35SE HST TRACTOR WITH KIOTI KL351 LOADER AND KIOTI KB2475 BACKHOE. I was looking at JD, Kubota, and New Holland's. After reading this forum for a week I ran across info on the Kioti. The more I read the more I liked them. Started searching craigslist and other sites for 30-35hp tractors and found the best deal on a Kioti. I did not have brand loyalties, I just bought what I believed to be the best tractor for the money.

The Kioti I found was owned by a man who was murdered. He only had 113 hours of use on it and looks like new. The dealer who sold it to the man, bought it back from the estate to help out the family. It still has warranty on the drive train.

So here is what I got and what I paid: KIOTI DK35SE HST Tractor with KIOTI KL351 Loader, KIOTI KB2475 Backhoe, 48" Markham grapple installed with hydrolics, and Land pride RCR1872 Cutter delivered for $25,000. It will be delivered in two weeks.

In thirty days I will be moving into our new home that sits on 12 acres. The property has a creek running the full length of the land. I plan on cleaning that out, removing several dead trees and digging a small swimming hole. In addition to planting a small fruit orchard, about 8-12 trees. I am also considering digging the foundation for a pole barn.

Anyway, I am so excited I can't see straight!!!

 

[dourobob]

Welcome to the discussions. You will find a wealth of knowlesge , experience and advice here.

Enjoy your new machine and work safely.
Bob

 

[Dmace]

Sounds like a good deal!

Congrats and Welcome To The Pack! :thumbsup:

 

[Yota_85]

Let us know how that backhoe digs. I would surely be interested. (Although my name isn't Shirley)

 

[VictorW]

The tractor and attachments sound good to get you started on your planned work and the price is very reasonable. I'm not sure what size swimming hole you want to make but doing it with that size bh will take you a good while. If you plan on doing it with the fel, you may want a tooth bar to help you dig. Depending on the ground, you may just want to rent a small excavator or small bulldozer and knock it out in a weekend. All your finish work can then be done with the tractor.
Have fun with your new toy and be safe.

 

[PhilipLoyd]

The tractor and attachments sound good to get you started on your planned work and the price is very reasonable. I'm not sure what size swimming hole you want to make but doing it with that size bh will take you a good while. If you plan on doing it with the fel, you may want a tooth bar to help you dig. Depending on the ground, you may just want to rent a small excavator or small bulldozer and knock it out in a weekend. All your finish work can then be done with the tractor.
Have fun with your new toy and be safe.

Putting on a tooth bar is a great idea. Wonder how much they costs? Do they have to be welded on our screwed on? I'm wondering if I should just have the dealer slap one on prior to delivery? Hmm! I may call tomorrow.

 

[wallace]

They are aprox $350
You drill 2 holes in trhe side wall of the bucket. It uses 2 bolts to hold the cutting edge on.

 

[Starks]

Sounds like a good deal and you'll love it. Let us know what you think when you get her home!

 

[PhilipLoyd]

They are aprox $350
You drill 2 holes in trhe side wall of the bucket. It uses 2 bolts to hold the cutting edge on.
View attachment 175697

Called the dealer and he stated they were $360 installed. I'm not going for that right now. Something I am thinking about is a ROP mounted light system. I understand that the headlights don't work very well with the FEL on. I heard a kit could be bought from Iron Mike from MI Iron. Does anyone have a picture and know how much they cost? I want the three light version, two front facing and one rear facing. Hopefully it would turn on when the current light switch is engaged

 

[Patches]

If you ever run the road, you might want to rethink having work lights on your headlight switch. I don't often run mine on the road, but when I do I like having my tail lights illuminated(have to have headlights on), especially at dusk, and I don't want a 55, or greater, watt light looking towards the traffic behind me

 

[PhilipLoyd]

I never thought about that! It would be a good I idea to have that option. From my understanding there are two connections at the back of the DK35SE, one that is attached to the headlights and one that is attached to a blank fuse called Customer Use. I assume it could hook it up either way. I would guess the best way would be to hook it up to the headlights wire and put a toggle switch so it would automatically come on when you engage the lights and you could reach over and turn them off during those seldom times you would be on the road at night.

Thanks for pointing that out, I would have never thought about it.

 

[Patches]

There may be one more fly-in-the-ointment. If you want all three on one switch, you'll probably have to utilize a relay as I'm not sure a toggle will handle the amperage(will depend on the bulb wattage you choose)

 

[PhilipLoyd]

There may be one more fly-in-the-ointment. If you want all three on one switch, you'll probably have to utilize a relay as I'm not sure a toggle will handle the amperage(will depend on the bulb wattage you choose)

I read a few posts that stated a similar issue of only having 15amp on one fuse. I called Michigan Iron about their light kit. I would assume they would have it on just one fuse. The receptionist told me they were all out to a seminar and would call me back Saturday. I will let you know what they say as some others may benefit.

 

[Gittyup]

I don't have MI's kit; I did mine myself. I used three 55 watters, 2 front, one rear. I run all three off of a marine grade toggle switch rated for 20 amps. You don't need a relay. I used the customer use fuse. If you do your own, you could easily use two switches if you want the front/ rears to be separately controlled.

 

[PhilipLoyd]

I don't have MI's kit; I did mine myself. I used three 55 watters, 2 front, one rear. I run all three off of a marine grade toggle switch rated for 20 amps. You don't need a relay. I used the customer use fuse. If you do your own, you could easily use two switches if you want the front/ rears to be separately controlled.

What was your costs on this project? How did you mount the lights to the ROP? Did you just zip tie your wires? Where did you mount the toggle switch. Lastly, where did you get your lights? Did you just use halogen lights? Sorry for so many questions.

 

[PhilipLoyd]

Tractor will be delivered Tuesday. I know its kind of weird, but I am going to video his demonstration. He is supposed to show me easy ways to remove the fel, backhoe, and grapple. I know I will forget some things so I am going to use my son's Flip camera record it. I will upload it to my facebook an post a link, if anyone is interested.

I also previously mentioned to my dealer about the ROP lights, but he did not have an option. Talked to him again yesterday and he told me about a couple of customers who did it and they had issues with bugs swarming around their heads. Just a thought. Guess it wouldn't be a problem in the cool seasons.

 

[Patches]

Only time I've used my ROP lights is snowblowing at night; guaranteed, NO BUGS

 

[Gittyup]

There are several threads on this, and some have photos of my lights. There are others that also posted excellent solutions. You should search these out.

I don't remember exact cost, but was like $17/light and $20 for the switch. I had the wire. I used trapazoidal floods. I put my wire in the corrugated plastic split-sleeving stuff you can buy and tie-wrapped it to the inside of ROPS. My switch is mounted on the plastic cover that goes over the 3PH lift control lever, at the back where it's flat. Some others used this spot too. Easy to remove and cut a square hole for the switch. The lights I bought did not have gimbals. So, I had to make mine. I welded them up to a piece of uni-strut. Then I U-bolted the uni-strut/light assembly to the ROPS. Again do a search on this forum and in the projects forum too.

 

[PhilipLoyd]

There are several threads on this, and some have photos of my lights. There are others that also posted excellent solutions. You should search these out.

I don't remember exact cost, but was like $17/light and $20 for the switch. I had the wire. I used trapazoidal floods. I put my wire in the corrugated plastic split-sleeving stuff you can buy and tie-wrapped it to the inside of ROPS. My switch is mounted on the plastic cover that goes over the 3PH lift control lever, at the back where it's flat. Some others used this spot too. Easy to remove and cut a square hole for the switch. The lights I bought did not have gimbals. So, I had to make mine. I welded them up to a piece of uni-strut. Then I U-bolted the uni-strut/light assembly to the ROPS. Again do a search on this forum and in the projects forum too.

I have read almost every light thread on TBN. My only problem is the welding part. I don't have that equipment or skill. I would love to find lights that could easily be U-bolted to the ROPS without having to weld special brackets. I need U-bolt ready lights I guess. I think from my reading, I could manage the rest. We have a Harbor Freight store here, but the lights don't appear to have any brackets. I will continue in this search. Thanks for your help.

 

[dwhite]

I use a magnet base light. That way it can be turned forward or back and it hangs down mid ROPS. Occasionally, a branch will try to take it off, but I usually can lift the branches out of the way until it's past. I think I found it at TSC or Walmart.