Painting my rusty junk?

[hrcarver]

What are the options for painting rusty junk?

I was thinking about sand blasting(my neighbor does it), priming, then painting. Is that rust converter any good? Anything else?

The first project...

 

[workinprogress]

I have had some pretty good luck wiht the rustoleum rust converter as long as I take some time to clean the metal with a wire brush on a grinder before applying. I used the brush on type and gave in 3+days to dry before painting. The paint seems to hold pretty well.

 

[carpenter383]

por15 is supposed to be among the best, the "por" stands for "paint over rust"
It's uv sensitive though so it needs to be top coated.
"Rust bullit" is supposed to be good too and isn't uv sensitive.

 

[flusher]

I use Gempler's rust converter. Works great.

Gempler's Rust Converter Success Stories | Gempler's

 

[backdoor]

I used ospho. Spray it on with an old windex bottle. Surface prep is important for a smooth paint finish. I followed up with a can or two of rustoleum spray paint. No rust through after several years on an old Dearborn plow frame.

 

[acrawler]

I like to sandblast to clean metal then prime/ paint with quality material - usally gives much better results and costs turn out closer than you think.

 

[thatguy]

I used a 'rust converter' paint (not sure of the mfg, came from TSC) on an old rear blade.. I just hit the loose rust with a wire brush and painted away.. It got 2 or 3 coats.. After 2 yrs it still looks great ( i do keep it covered with a canvas tarp though)..

Brian

 

[handirifle]

What are the options for painting rusty junk?

I was thinking about sand blasting(my neighbor does it), priming, then painting. Is that rust converter any good? Anything else?

The first project...

I think this is the best option, hands down. Faster and it lets you know what you have instead of covering it up. Sometimes sandblasting exposes parts nearly rusted through and you can re-weld, and paint.

 

[Soundguy]

if you do sandblast, then when done, grease the bajeebers out of it to get the abrasive out of places it ain't suposed to be.. but always ends up..

soundguy

 

[hrcarver]

I'd take off all the gangs before I took it over there. No need to do those.

 

[sixdogs]

Faced with this choice I narrowed it down into two methods. For raelly good stuff that I'm going to take care of and store inside, I do as previously mentioned.

However, if iit's not going to be treated all that well, i found an easier way worth mention.
I sloppily wire brush any loose stuff for maybe 45 seconds. That's all. Then I get a stiff scrub brush and the wife's dishwashing detergent and scrub hard, rinse well and let dry. Prime with Rustoleum Rusty metal primer and then top coat with whatever. Actually, I prefer a better-quality acrylic enamel paint.
This approach sounds pretty shaky but has worked very well for me and I use it on most of my tillage equipment.
Just my two cents.

 

[Soundguy]

that's not uncommon.. lotsa people power wash, spray with phosphoric acid to eat rust, then prime and paint.

soundguy

 

[wdchyd]

Have you seen "Rust Removal with Washing Soda and Battery Charger"?....Sometime ago I did see some pics of a guy that did a whole utility trailer....of course he had to make some big bath arrangement with an old pool liner and some old concrete blocks......

Electrolytic Rust Removal aka Magic

I guess it only dissolves the rust and leaves the metal behind, which would be great for restoration work on antiques and collectables....

 

[HCJtractor]

Sandblasting is really pretty cheap, and by far the best. Saves incredible amounts of time amd elbow grease. I just did an old three bottom plow. They charged me $75 to blast and prime it. It looks too nice to use! I took mine apart and carried the pieces to them then reassembled it with new bolts. I would take off the gangs of discs and just let them do the main frame, then replace and broken discs and bearings and it will be like new.

 

[Soundguy]

you'd need a huge tank to do big parts with electrolysys. works great on smaller stuff though.

soundguy

 

[FlaDon]

you'd need a huge tank to do big parts with electrolysys. works great on smaller stuff though.

soundguy

Get the biggest plastic garbage can and you are good to go.

Sandblasting does the best job but the Rustoleum Rust Reformer holds up well if you just knock off the loose rust. Be sure to leave a rust film on the part to get it to work correctly.

 

[Soundguy]

I don't think that dual ganged disc is gonna fit a garbage can unless you meant garbage dumpster

I've used large kiddie pools .. works good.. get them at the beginning of winter when walmart clearances them for a couple bucks..

soundguy

 

[hrcarver]

Thanks guys. I was thinking sandblasting before, and with the high cost of the converters and por, I think sandblasting will still be the best bet. Might only cost me a few extra dollars, but with better results.

 

[sixdogs]

I wish I could convince others as to my post #11 above and how easy it is and how well it has worked for me. Over the years I have done the 100% perfect job and taken a lot of time to do it only to beat it in tillage work or upgrade to something else and have the new owner benefit from my efforts for little added cost.
Paint has never come off a clean, non-flaking rusty surface. The time saved gives me much more space for esoteric sfforts such as time with wife and dogs or perhaps pondering an occasional brew.
Attached is a photo of a spike harrow I made into 3-pt hitch and painted via the above method. It was a piece of rusty equipment I worked on and then painted.
It's not a Cadillac finish but for simple and easy looks surprisingly good. FYI.

 

[Stampeder]

Electolysis process by far THE BEST!!!
I almost never pull my sandblaster out anymore for rust removal. The washing soda is incredibly cheap and the best thing is that it won't hurt the enviornment. So disposal is NO issue.

Get yourself some 2X12's and a tarp. Take the gangs off and the top link then put the whole thing in the tarp tank. A day or so with no work on your part and it's clean and ready for paint. The other benefit is that you actually put back the metal where the rust once was. Sand blasting takes the metal that has oxidized away. Not a huge issue but definitely better.

As for paint, there is no question here in my mind. I have used Hammerite for years and it is without a doubt THE BEST. No I have no association with them at all. Kilz has bought them out. They have two Hammerite products. Rust inhibitor and Rust encapsulator.

I use the Rust encapsulator on things like cultivator tines. It creates a rock hard finish and totally encapsulates any rust that may still be hanging around.
As you can tell I am a big fan of this.

Here in East Texas the heat and sun is brutal on paint finishes so that's why I use Hammerite. It cuts down drastically on the number of times I have to repaint.

Incidently, I first started using Hammerite about 40 years ago.

Glenn.