rusted receiver removal.

[wedge40]

I have a receiver on a F150 that hasn't been removed for about 8 years. Any tricks to getting this thing unstuck? I dont have access to acetylene, just MAP gas. I've heated and used PB blaster, but still wont budge, forward or backward. Any suggestions?

Wedge

 

[CCOUGHRAN1]

Have you tried to put tension on it, by pulling against a stump, then using a sledge to beat it up a little?

I had this happen on an old Ford F350, and it worked for me.

 

[art]

I hate it when that happens!!!

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thats why I take mine out each and every time. Plus I got tired putting holes in the garage wall and busting my shins.

Really though try chaining it to a tree and pulling. If not you are screwed. I have had to cut them off with a torch. Your best bet if it will not come out is to take the entire hitch off, 6 to 8 bolts on a F-150, and use a shop press with a soak in ATF and kero or some other rust buster.

Good luck.

 

[s78wingrider]

Liquid Wrench

 

[wedge40]

Sorry, pulled on tree and even backed into tree. Bent hook on chain even.
I guess I'll have to let the pros handle it.
Do fire extinguisher still produce large amounts of cold. Heat didn't work but though a cold might work better.

Wedge

 

[ray66v]

I put mine on a frame machine, heated it, and pulled it, repeat. And I still could not get it apart. :mur:

Cutting it open, and welding it. was the only option left. But, I did not want it off that bad.

 

[zzvyb6]

Put a pin in it that's slightly smaller than the OE pin. Hook up a trailer and take it for a beer run on a bumpy road. In 30 minutes, it will be loose.

 

[lostcause]

i've got one of these too. my ton had one rusted in when i bought it, and i've never got around to getting it out yet. i heated as much of the hitch as i could keep warm at once, hooked two trucks together with them under tension and smacked on things with a sledge. nothing moved. i have a feeling i'm going to have to cut the receiver tube welds out with a cutoff wheel. maybe it would just be easier to slit the tube and try to pry it open. i want to try to get the drawbar out in one piece, as it's a 2" solid bar with a 6" drop for a 2-5/16" ball. the drawbar costs more than a receiver tube.

 

[flyingcow]

Have you tried to put tension on it, by pulling against a stump, then using a sledge to beat it up a little?

I had this happen on an old Ford F350, and it worked for me.

That worked for me. But still might not work. As pointed out, may have to remove the whole hitch and take it to a shop and press out.

 

[Diamondpilot]

As I had said in another thread I tried to get one out of a GM van one time. We lifted the van off the ground with a Back Hoe by the vans hitch and still could not get it out. We ended up just cutting it off because the hitch was no longer needed on the van.

If it did not come out with a chain and a tree its junk. It will cost you more to get it out than a new class 3 hitch. Just spend $100 and get a new hitch. Its a lesson learned, do not leave the draw bar in.:thumbsup:

I see this a few times a year and 9 times out of 10 its a lost cause.

Chris

 

[kebo]

Put a pin in it that's slightly smaller than the OE pin. Hook up a trailer and take it for a beer run on a bumpy road. In 30 minutes, it will be loose.

LOL!! Actually, try hooking up a $30k boat and take off down the road with NO pin in it. That oughta do it! Just make sure you have a good insurance policy on the truck.:laughing:

Seriously, try taking some type of air impact tool and see if you can pound it out. A suggestion would be an air chisel with a very blunt tip in it. Let it pound on the receiver a while. Try it from both ends too, and different angles if you can. Maybe even try some more heat on it at the same time. When you get tired, let a buddy take over for a bit. If that doesn't get it out, then trade the truck and let someone else deal with it!

 

[wdchyd]

Wedge40,

I've loosened them with scrap steel to make some kind of slide hammer.....

Old junk hydraulic rod (slip round eye of hyd shaft over ball).....then slip a chunk of steel ( weighing 10-15 lbs.)with a hole slightly larger than hyd rod dia on the shaft......then weld some junk on the end of the rod.....

then use the chunk of steel for the "Slide Hammer"and SLAM it.....helps to have a junk steel pile for donor parts and a welder......:thumbsup:

 

[poncho62]

You did take the pin out, right?.......lol

Usually a BFH works for me....after I spray it with penetrating oil for about a week first.

 

[Will_C]

I had this happen on my 1996 truck...the tree trick would not work, nothing else did...so it was traded with a receiver hitch in it, and I bought a new one for the new truck---stainless steel!!!!

Will

 

[Ryan03]

I have had a 100% success rate using a 10 ton port o power in conjunction with a air GOOD air hammer to remove them. Place the port o power between the nut on the hitch ball and the rear axle of the truck, now dont go crazy with it, just apply steady firm tension on the receiver, you are not trying to press it out, just place it under tension.

Now take a GOOD air hammer, like a Snap On or Ingersol with a stubby blunt dolly bit{available at sears} and begin to hammer around the outside of the tube the receiver slides into, this will begin to break up the scale, eventualy you will be hammering out on the ball nut while pushing with the port o power to remove the receiver. Heat helps alot with this process, but it should come out without using it, it will just take more effort with the air hammer. Wear your safety gloves and glasses as well as ear plugs.

I would not recomend chaining it to a tree and yanking, thats a good way to screw up your truck.

 

[Ford tractor]

Dilute some Naval Jelly with water and wet it front and back every morning and evening for a week, the rust should be eaten up enough to allow it to come out.

If that fails, slit the receiver with a cutting wheel on both sides and it will come apart. The receiver will be toast, but the expensive hitch part will be good. Wire brush it down to bare metal, paint it up nice and use never seize.

jb

 

[pistolhunter]

Google Deal

I use this stuff at work and it is by far the best oil for loosening rusty parts.

 

[mjncad]

A gearhead buddy of mine sent me the following.

> For all of you that are mechanically inclined.....
> Penetrating Oils Compared
>
> Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
>
> Penetrating oil .......... Average load
> None ..................... 516 pounds
> WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
> PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
> Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
> Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
> ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds
>
> The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
>
> Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

 

[wedge40]

I'lll try the penetrating oil for a few days. I have appt. Friday to have a hitch place see if they can get it removed. I still need a hitch, so I may just tell them to remove old hitch and replace with a new one.

I'll have to mix up some atf and acetone to have on hand. Seems like I'm always trying to separate rusted metals.

Wedge