3032e/3038e questions

[bxowner]

Have been checking out these models and can't figure out a couple of options on them... hoping someone can help:

1. I believe they're identical in size, including tire dimensions. Correct?
2. Can you get power beyond? i.e. to run a log splitter?
3. The brochure states it can take a front plow blade - but I can't find an option for the frame-mount variety. Is the only option the quick-attach Frontier model? If so, should I be more confident in the 305 loader torsional rigidity compared with the 300x/300cx arms? I've heard that loader-mounted blades can bend the arms. But perhaps the 305 permanent mount is stronger?
4. Can you add an optional FEL loader joystick that's more like the other 3000-series tractors? I know you can do that on a Kubota B2630/3030 model... I have a torn rotator cuff in my right shoulder that makes reaching out uncomfortable - but, reaching down for the loader joystick just fine.
5. Can you upgrade the seat like the 2000-series?
6. How does the diff-lock work with the brake pedal?
7. Finally... are the height dimensions the same for ag/industrial/turf tires? I ask because I have a 7' garage door and want ag's, but the wheel size seems much larger in pictures compared with the turf and industrial size wheels... the brochure doesn't help. Only says 83".

Thanks!

 

[RoyJackson]

Have been checking out these models and can't figure out a couple of options on them... hoping someone can help:

1. I believe they're identical in size, including tire dimensions. Correct?
2. Can you get power beyond? i.e. to run a log splitter?
3. The brochure states it can take a front plow blade - but I can't find an option for the frame-mount variety. Is the only option the quick-attach Frontier model? If so, should I be more confident in the 305 loader torsional rigidity compared with the 300x/300cx arms? I've heard that loader-mounted blades can bend the arms. But perhaps the 305 permanent mount is stronger?
4. Can you add an optional FEL loader joystick that's more like the other 3000-series tractors? I know you can do that on a Kubota B2630/3030 model... I have a torn rotator cuff in my right shoulder that makes reaching out uncomfortable - but, reaching down for the loader joystick just fine.
5. Can you upgrade the seat like the 2000-series?
6. How does the diff-lock work with the brake pedal?
7. Finally... are the height dimensions the same for ag/industrial/turf tires? I ask because I have a 7' garage door and want ag's, but the wheel size seems much larger in pictures compared with the turf and industrial size wheels... the brochure doesn't help. Only says 83".

Thanks!

For the 3032e, got to the Deere website, select the 3032e, then select manual (it'll be on the left side of the web page). That's the operator's manual which will answer some of your questions.
Since the 3032e's loader doesn't come off, I'd wager you're stuck with the loader mounted blade. Use some sense and you'll be OK. By "sense",I mean don't run the tractor at top speed when blading.
The manual may give you the ROPS height for the tires. Look in the manual's specifications section (near the end of the manual). I think you'll see about 6" difference (due to the different types of tires) from maximum to minimum. I can't recall if the 3032e has a folding ROPS, but if it does, your garage door height won't matter.
As far as the log splitter, you'll have to check. But if it runs off the PTO, you may have a problem. The 3032e does not have off seat PTO capability (put a 50-100 bag of sand on the seat).

There's a start, bro...now go read that manual.

 

[kennyd]

Just remember, the "E" is for Economy, JD might not admit it-but it is.

1. I think so...
2. I don't think there is a JD option since they don't offer a backhoe for it. I am sure it's possible to add it yourself though.
3. The loader is "permanent" so I don't see how a frame mounted blade will work-and it appears they don't offer it.
4. I seriously doubt it. Remember what the "E" stands for?
5. Who knows...anything is possible. The 2000 series upgrades your are speaking of is all custom stuff anyway, not JD.
6. Not sure i understand. The diff lock should be a separate lever. These units do NOT have split brakes.
7. ROPS height will be different with different tires.


By all your questions though, this does not sound like the machine for you

 

[Artesia Aggie]

The 3032e/3038e has some type of rear hydraulic kit available. I'm a little light on details, but the dealer mentioned it when I was tractor shopping.

I believe the 305 loader is the only choice for these tractors.

The dealer had one with ag tires and one with industrial. BIG difference in height.

 

[HowlingWolf]

Hey I also think you would probabily be disaponted with the Es. I really wanted the FEL joystick like the others, but very happy with my 3032. Light pressure on the brake pedal locks in the diff. very easy. Sounds like you need comforts. I would go with the 3320 if you can afford it but that 5k is all upgrade swank. I only needed basic so thats what I got. Good hunting.

 

[JD755]

...Light pressure on the brake pedal locks in the diff. very easy.....

This is interesting to me. I had never heard of this so I checked the manual. It says depress brake 3/4 to 1 inch to engage diff lock. Does it disengage if you press it further? Do you sense a feel in the pedal when it engages? Just curious.

 

[msmud]

The manual suggests the diff lock will automatically disengage when the tires no longer are experiencing slip.

This is slightly off topic from the original poster's questions, but the engine tuning of the 3032E and 3038E shows some rather interesting ramifications. In the case of the 3032E as compared to the 3320's version of the engine, limiting operating rpm to 2500 rpm and raising the compression ratio to 19 increases operating torque slightly (from 61.6 to around 62.7 ft-lbs), moves the torque peak up to 1680 rpm from 1560, and most dramatically increases the peak torque by 10% (from 73.9 to 80.2 ft-lbs) and the torque rise from 20% in 1.64L version in the 3320, to 28% in its 3032E guise.

This is interesting to me given the light weight of the 3032E and 3038E. For one thing, both tractors would seem very likely to spin the wheels given the improved torque numbers, and unless one really needs 30 PTO hp, the spinning might be a real issue with the 3038E.

It is also interesting that having a higher torque peak and torque rise may help performance under load, but if the torque peak comes at a higher rpm value, it may be theoretically easier to stall the tractor under an extreme load that pushes the engine below the higher rpm torque peak. Makes me wonder about these two for loader operations. For 3 pt activies like bushhogging, they might be great little machines, perhaps even a bit better than the 3320/3520 versions of the engines.

I'd be very interested in what users of these are reporting as far as performance.
Tim

 

[JD755]

The manual suggests the diff lock will automatically disengage when the tires no longer are experiencing slip.

Any of the JD diff locks will maintain lock until slippage is gone and then automatically disengage. But this is after you release the diff lock pedal. I'm trying to understand how this brake/diff lock system works. Does diff lock engage any time you push the brake, or only if you carefully hold the pedal depressed just one inch. Any more or any less is it not engaged? With a standard diff lock pedal I can feel when it fully engages after I press it. That may not be for a moment until gears align. Is there any pedal feel feedback with the combined brake/diff lock pedal. Again, just trying to learn.

 

[msmud]

I'm not sure why it would be any different from how you engage the lock on any of the other tractors--depress the brake pedal partially long enough for it to catch, and let go.

I meant to test this interesting feature last week when I test drove a 3038E, but I forgot to when I was with the salesman. I only used the brake pedal after I had stopped the tractor, in order to shift from A to B range. It felt and functioned like a normal brake when I pushed it all the way to the floor, and there was no unlocking "pop" after I got going, I'm assuming because I used it after the wheels had stopped via hydrostatic deceleration, and because I didn't hold the brake in the partial position needed to catch the lock.

Personally, I think this is rather innovative. I always found it rather awkward trying to find and stomp the little diff lock pedal somewhere up under the seat, the few times I have needed it. The big brake pedal in front of you ought to be a lot easier and quicker to use.

 

[JD755]

To me that seems very inconvenient. I use diff lock a lot and never have any trouble just stepping on the pedal. I may step on it for an extended distance on a ditch slope to prevent side slip. I need to make sure it is engaged until I no longer need it. Only then will I let up on the pedal. I would not want to balance a brake pedal position hoping it stays engaged. Without it a tire can spin loose pretty quickly. Same thing with wet flat areas. I may engage it as I enter the area knowing that if nothing spins loose I can get through it OK. But a momentary spin can quickly create a mud bog. Sounds like you rarely need diff lock so the brake operation may not be a problem for you and that's OK. We all have different needs for our tractors.

 

[art]

I remember years ago before diff lock and we used to hit the brakes on the wheel that was spinning to try to get power to the other wheel that might have had traction to keep moving.

It always seemed like working backwards to step on the brake to make things go!! I guess jd figured it out boy they do have a way

 

[msmud]

JD 755,
Maybe others feel as you do that this would be inconvenient. I wish some of the 3032e/3038e owners could comment on their experiences with these tractors, about this issue and any others with them.

My test drive impressed me. The salesman even hooked up a 700# 6' bushhog to this little tractor with no weights on the front, and it lifted it fine with no elevation of the wheels, but had some front wheel bounce when he drove it around the yard and parked it. With enough weights I think it could handle a 6 ft hog. I also noted that the tractor spun its R4s in 2wd and even 4wd when he backed one of the 3 pt arms against the hog 3 pt pin in order to move it. These tractors would need a lot of weight on them it seems to me, especially with the engine tunings they seem to have.

What have you 3032/3038 owners experienced?
Tim

 

[AKfish]

I remember years ago before diff lock and we used to hit the brakes on the wheel that was spinning to try to get power to the other wheel that might have had traction to keep moving.

It always seemed like working backwards to step on the brake to make things go!! I guess jd figured it out boy they do have a way

Oh yah, I forgot about doin' that! A quick jam and let up; another jam and let up.

Whew... how old am I??

AKfish

 

[Ray_Fort_White]

My 3038E can very easily spin a wheel if I attempt to accelerate too hard, especially in low range. I have loaded Industrial tires. If I tap the brake pedal the slipping stops, no need to engage 4WD in most cases. I can't feel any change when it unlocks.

I think everyone is missing the point. My guess it that JD wants the rear locked when braking. I'd like to look at a service manual to see if there is only one shared rear brake? Is it possible they did it as a $$$ savings?

The brake pedal is easy to reach and makes locking the differential simple.

BTW, I have 3 close neighbors with 790/3005's equipped with a FEL. All 3 mow with the loader on the tractor. I leave the mower on while using the loader. I'll be the first to admit I'm too lazy to do a lot of attaching and unattaching.

 

[msmud]

Ray,
Since you've lived with one of these economy tractors, what's your judgment on the "E" series? Any particular problems or criticisms? Any qualities that surpassed your expectations? What improvements would you make, if any?
Tim

 

[xochiti]

Just bought a 3038e (already had the 7' garage door...LOL) At 84'' of door height, with R4 tires, the top of the ROPS clears by about a 1/4 of an inch, but I can get it in the workshop. I have loaded R4s and it's gone everywhere I wanted...plus the misses likes it when I have to be on the lawn, doesn't tear grass up at all.
Half way down locks diff anything past that begins to apply brakes.
I love my 3038e, especially with the 5K I kept in my pocket by forgoing the whistles and bells. IMHO its all about what you can live with.

 

[JD755]

I think everyone is missing the point. My guess it that JD wants the rear locked when braking. I'd like to look at a service manual to see if there is only one shared rear brake? Is it possible they did it as a $$$ savings?

.

This recall attachment sorta makes me think that...

PROBLEM: An incorrect differential assembly may have been installed into the
transmission during production. The incorrect differential could cause the
tractor to turn to the left when the brakes are applied.

 

[Ray_Fort_White]

Tim:

I think the E series is aimed at home owners like me, that have some acreage with light farming and mowing chores.

The seat might be in line for an upgrade at some point. Other than that, can't think of anything I'd change, except maybe a fuel tank that is easier to fill.

The power steering is great. The controls are simple and well placed. It's a very easy tractor to use.

 

[123rday]

I have a 3038e and I'd say I lose traction first even with rear filled tires. Winter, I added chains all around. big difference, go practically anywhere. Summer, with loader work, I have a ballest box on back loaded with 480lbs of bagged concrete incase I want to use the ballest box empty. My dealer said they could install a kit for rear hydralics for things like log splitters and so on. At that point I'd see if they couldn't add/reroute lines for joystick to accomodate you by the seat. I usually hear and feel the rear diff lock and unlock if driving slowww. I think most times though instead of engaging rear diff, I engage 4wd. I think the seat is very comfy.

 

[msmud]

I think John Deere has hit a home run with these E series tractors--incredibly simple, cost effective, good-looking, stripped down to the key basics. For a guy like me who's looking to use a bushhog 95% of the time and a boxblade occasionally, it seems like the perfect fit. As best I can determine, the 3032E is the cheapest Deere tractor that could run a 6 foot bushhog, such as the 20HP Woods.

I do worry these things will need a lot of weight on them (front and rear wheel), given the high torque to weight ratio, and R1s for better traction. I also wondered about the convenience of filling the gas tank. Maybe using 2 gallon diesel containers might prevent overfill.

How long can you go on a load of fuel with the 6 gallon tank?
Tim