Not that I have seen but I will keep my eyes peeled.
70 Tomato Plant Set Yesterday -pix
- Thread starter bp fick
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Not that I have seen but I will keep my eyes peeled.
jinman
Rest in Peace
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Don (Ridgewalker), Thanks for the description of the harvest process. One of the more interesting things you mentioned in my opinion is the drip irrigation hoses under the poly. The use of migrant workers is what I suspected for harvest.
Duffster: I have used plastic cups in the past to thwart cutworms. I cut the bottom of the cup off and leave about 2" of the sides and rim. I place the cup around the young tomato sets so that at least 1" of it sticks up out of the ground. Cutworms cannot crawl over the cup and get to the plant, plus they hit a barrier when trying to tunnel through the ground. Once plants are 1/4" to 1/2" in diameter, it seems the problem with cutworms goes away. I only worry about the very young succulent plants.
Duffster: I have used plastic cups in the past to thwart cutworms. I cut the bottom of the cup off and leave about 2" of the sides and rim. I place the cup around the young tomato sets so that at least 1" of it sticks up out of the ground. Cutworms cannot crawl over the cup and get to the plant, plus they hit a barrier when trying to tunnel through the ground. Once plants are 1/4" to 1/2" in diameter, it seems the problem with cutworms goes away. I only worry about the very young succulent plants.
OP
bp fick
Super Member
Excellent. Simple physical barriers work well when planting early. Yes, cutworms are larvae that soon grow out of the stage. Thus, delayed planting takes care of the issue two ways. One, the stalk is over a 1/4", as you said. They only go after the 1/8" size stems. Second, the larvae stage is over. Simple way to avoid the problem. Organic farmers work hard to learn these techniques. Our grandparents likely knew these things, but they've sorta been lost, if you will, as we tended to just use chemical solutions, which in the end, tend to be counter productive. Good info Jinman.
OP
bp fick
Super Member
The plant on the left is only 7-10 days older than the smaller plant on the right. The choice is to plant the typically smaller plant and risk cut worm losses and/or install barriers, which do work, but are labor intensive, if one is planting a large amount.
A two week delay in planting, allows the growth to take place before transplanting. In my experience, the larger plant suffers less transplant shock and actually out perform the earlier, riskier transplanting. DTM, (days to market) is better if the initial early growth takes place before transplanting.
There appears to be less leaf rust and other issues as well. Just passing stuff along, FWIW to anyone.
A two week delay in planting, allows the growth to take place before transplanting. In my experience, the larger plant suffers less transplant shock and actually out perform the earlier, riskier transplanting. DTM, (days to market) is better if the initial early growth takes place before transplanting.
There appears to be less leaf rust and other issues as well. Just passing stuff along, FWIW to anyone.
Patriotic Stabilist
Platinum Member
OP
bp fick
Super Member
We are in the midst of a drought that has lingered for over a year. We are running less than 50% of our snow/rain fall. Went out today and bought bales and bales of straw.
Was asked earlier in this thread if I intended to mulch. I answered no, I never have mulched. I am changing my mind. After two straight weeks of unbearable temperatures and no rain, I have been pumping water until I am weary of it. Tomorrow, the straw goes on everything. My hope is cut my watering needs down by shading the soil around the plants for moisture preservation. Pic will follow.
Was asked earlier in this thread if I intended to mulch. I answered no, I never have mulched. I am changing my mind. After two straight weeks of unbearable temperatures and no rain, I have been pumping water until I am weary of it. Tomorrow, the straw goes on everything. My hope is cut my watering needs down by shading the soil around the plants for moisture preservation. Pic will follow.
Ridgewalker
Platinum Member
Hey guys I need some help. One of my 'mater plants is getting black spots on the leaves, the spots are slowly spreading and the plant is withering. What is this and how do I get rid of it?
TIA
TIA
OP
bp fick
Super Member
Septoria leafspot more than likely. The cures vary. Google and make your own decision as to treatment. A better "cure" is to plant resistant varieties. Don't know about MO, but it isn't too late in most of the country to re-plant with a different variety.
That is funny you mention this. I strawed all my potatoes last night and intended to post pics but it was to dark when I took them and it was another long day today.
The 'taters look nice all bedded down.
dcyrilc
Elite Member
That is funny you mention this. I strawed all my potatoes last night and intended to post pics but it was to dark when I took them and it was another long day today.
The 'taters look nice all bedded down.
I found you an impliment to make harvest time easier.:thumbsup:
