How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt

   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #1  

flusher

Super Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2005
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7,572
Location
Sacramento
Tractor
Getting old. Sold the ranch. Sold the tractors. Moved back to the city.
I'm getting closer to finding the 1999-2003 3/4 or 1T PU I need to pull a 10K GN for hauling my parade tractors (heaviest is about 4500 lb).

I'll be test driving some candidates soon.
This will be the first PU I've bought totally for towing grunt.

Question: short of putting the candidate truck on a dyno or hooking up a loaded 10K GN trailer, what should I look for that will tell me if the truck will tow loads anywhere near the specs you find in the manuals or that you read about in forums like this one?

Any tricks of the trade that I should use during a test drive to get a handle on this question?

I'd hate to get stuck with an otherwise acceptable truck that has a worn out engine that's short on grunt.
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #2  
Simple, no tricks. IMO, You need an in-line 6 cylinder diesel.

There are no choices in that category IMO, just one, I don't have to mention any names, you know, everyone knows :)

I might not be so sure if you didn't say "bought totally for towing"
But since that's your main criteria, that's the answer.

Go with the 1 ton with duals, As far as the gearing goes, not sure what to recommend for just 10K towing, maybe others will help.
The lower gears will give the "GRUNT your looking for, but some may say that for that load, high gears would be better.

Good luck, JB
 
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   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #3  
10K is not much weight for any diesel. Even a bow tie could handle that.:D

Since its just for towing I would want 4:10 gears and may settle for 3.73 gears but would not want the 3.55 or 3.54 gears Dodge put in a lot of trucks.

If it runs good and checks out by your trusted mechanic it will be up to the task. Many of us tow that type of load with gasers and some with 1/2 ton trucks. I don't even break out my diesels for towing until I get to 8K or more.

Chris
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #4  
Its easy to spot good trucks - look for the blue oval:)
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #5  
IF IT A FORD WITH AN AUTOMATIC. THE TORQUE CONVERTER IS BAD IF AFTER IT IS WARMED UP IDLEING IN PARK. IT SOUNDS LIKE SHAKING A CAN OF MARBELS. IT IS A 1500.00 REPAIR. IT HAPENED TO ME AT 110,000 MILES
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #6  
My 2000 SRW F-350 V-10 5 spd manual w/ 4.30 gears pulls my 14k rated dump trailer just fine. (10mpg loaded, 12-13 mpg empty)
Personally speaking you don't need a diesel to pull 10k. With the cost of diesel being higher than gasoline (at least in CA) there is no payback to buying one. Unless it's an ego thing... :)
When diesel was $0.30 a gallon cheaper than gas, it was about an 80k mile breakeven point.
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #7  
It sounds like you're not towing too much, and I don't have experience with many light trucks but what I do suggest is that if you're going to work it hard every day, get a slightly larger truck like a Topkick. It will stand up better over time.

@JB4310: Why dual tires? I've run both, and currently have single tires on my 1 ton. I find the single tires track better in mud and deep snow. Another bonus is that when you get back onto pavement, there is no need to check for rocks lodged between the tires; one of those letting loose is a brown trousers kind of event. ...and it's two fewer tires to check in the morning. :)

With little trucks like we're talking about there's no advantage, GVW wise, in running duallies; at least not where I live. You could run two lighter(cheaper) tires, I suppose.
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #8  
This is a thread that I've following with a measure of self-interest - might be interested in moving my 3/4 ton and getting a 1 ton rig, too.

One concern that I have is - chipped trucks! More than enough horror stories out there regarding abuse and real hard use with guys chipping everything with an accelerator pedal! :eek:

How do you know whether you're sittin' behind the wheel of a truck that's had the cr@p chipped otta it?

AKfish
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #9  
Ok I have to chime in. I would say that the in line six (Dodge) is the best power plant out there for the light duty diesels. Too bad it is in a Dodge :rolleyes:

The Ford 7.3 liter is legendary and is truely a half million mile motor. However, the tranny like a lot of others is not the best. If you change the fluids increase the size of the pump etc. and add a differant pan with air cooling fins etc. the tranny will last you a very long time. If you can find one with a manual tranny (like mine) your problems are over the whole package can't be stopped.

I bought my first Ford regular cab Diesel (manual) and ran it till I had too many kids and then sold her for a crew cab diesel 6.0 liter one ton single rear wheel and I am still running it. I do tow some large loads 15,000 + with out any trouble. My smaller load is my Kubota 3830 with FEL and implements approx 7,000 lbs + 1,500 pound trailer. Tow some hard grades with her and runs at around 60 mph with no hesitation. It has been a great truck. The only problem I have had was the clutch sensor went out for the cruise control but with an 80 dollar part it was fixed.

Oh yea I bought both trucks new and have not modified either one. They both pulled like crazy. Remember all diesels need to be warmed up and the turbo cooled down. Run synthetic in the new diesels since they run way too hot and can burn the oil easily. Maintenance is key! ;)
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #10  
You don't need a diesel to pull 10K#.
It's nice, but not a necessity.
You don't need a DRW truck to pull 10K#.
It's nice, but not a necessity.
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #11  
hmm -- how about this for food for thought? instead of worrying about grunt issues, how about getting a 4 wheel drive unit? If you dont need 4 wheel drive, then disconnect the front shaft. Shift in 4 lo for parades. You get all the grunt you need plus better smoother low speed in parades.
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #12  
@JB4310: Why dual tires? I've run both, and currently have single tires on my 1 ton.

With little trucks like we're talking about there's no advantage, GVW wise, in running duallies; at least not where I live. You could run two lighter(cheaper) tires, I suppose.


I agree, for the load, duals are not necessary, nor diesel.

But If you're gonna build a dedicated fifth wheel towing rig, you'd want diesel and duals IMO. If OP said just want to tow my tractor to the cabin once a month or year, it'd be a different storey.

I don't agree that duals offer no advantage GVW wise, maybe not much for CGVW, but for the rig, that's the only way to increase GVW. Changing the model number from 2500/250 to 3500/350 does nothing w/o duals.

JB.
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #13  
I don't agree that duals offer no advantage GVW wise, maybe not much for CGVW, but for the rig, that's the only way to increase GVW. Changing the model number from 2500/250 to 3500/350 does nothing w/o duals.

JB.

That is not true. GM gets a 1100# increase going from 2500 to 3500 SRW. Ford gets a 1,500# increase going from 250 to 350 SRW. So yes the GVWR does get a increase. Not sure about Dodge but I am sure they get a increase also. The tow ratings or GCWR stay about the same just the payload and tongue weight get a increase.

I have never owned a Dually and never will. I drove a 4x4 GMC Dually for 2 1/2 years for work and it was the second worst thing I have ever driven in the snow and ice behind my F-150 Lightning with 500 HP.

Chris
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #14  
Some half tons are rated for 10K trailers. If you want a daily driver than can also tow your trailer and tractors a half ton might be a better choice.
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #15  
I believe that as along as you find a newer (less than 10 yrs old) truck, you'll find it has plenty of towing power. Road test it, have your mechanic give it a look and enjoy it. I think even the base engines in all of the trucks will give decent pulling power with the loads you are talking about.

The dually debate is always there. The dual wheels will sink like stones in mud and snow, but provide a comfortable towing platform on the road. I've always towed with 1 ton dumps, so I'm much more comfortable with the dually set up.

If you ever have a blow-out in rear tire, the extra one is nice to have. Gets you off the road without as much drama. I've had this happen only once, but in a bad intersection. Saved me a lot of greif being able to get the truck (loaded with asphalt) to a parking lot and out of the road.
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #16  
Most agree to avoid the early model Ford 6.0 diesels (say 03 to 04). Most also say the later year 6.0 Fords are much better but still an expensive engine to repair and an engine that needs careful maintenance. I have an 06 F 350 SRW and love it. When buying a used Ford, get an Oasis report from a dealer and research its repair history to get an idea of past issues. Avoid any 6.0 that has been modified to be safer.

A late model 7.3 is great if you can find a low mileage one. A V-10 would also tow your tractor just fine.
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #17  
i dont understand the requirement.... you going to the drag strip or simply need to pull heavy loads.

cause if its the first then you need to concern yourself with big HP.

if its the second you need to concern yourself with gearing and know that it will just take a bit longer.

my 85 C30 dump truck (dual rear wheel) has a fairly mild SBC in it but its a 3spd with granny low. when i had a load of sand in it at 11K lbs (per the scale) even on my tired SBC i could still develop drive shaft pretzleing torque with that granny low if i dumped the clutch.

worry about the brakes before you worry about the engine. disks on all 4 corners is what your looking for.
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #18  
aw heck, if it's for moving your tractors to shows get a 4x4 truck with an 12 valve in-line six. Rebuild the front end, drive line u joints etc., new brakes and lines and you have a tow truck!:D
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #19  
That is not true. GM gets a 1100# increase going from 2500 to 3500 SRW. Ford gets a 1,500# increase going from 250 to 350 SRW. So yes the GVWR does get a increase. Not sure about Dodge but I am sure they get a increase also. The tow ratings or GCWR stay about the same just the payload and tongue weight get a increase.

I have never owned a Dually and never will. I drove a 4x4 GMC Dually for 2 1/2 years for work and it was the second worst thing I have ever driven in the snow and ice behind my F-150 Lightning with 500 HP.

Chris


Yup I guess I'm wrong, I don't get how they do it, increase payload 1400 pounds going from 250 to srw 350 with just heavier springs/axles.
Yet only increasing payload another 1400 pounds with duals.

I consider the tires capacity the most critical spec, the tires/wheels are what are carrying the weight, but even though with duals your getting twice the weight capacity of the tires (4 wheels vs 2), your only getting a fraction of that for added payload/gvw :confused:

For OP's requirement, it's right at the border. could go either way,
gas vs diesel
3/4 ton vs 1 ton
srw vs drw
high gear vs low
auto vs manual
brand X vs brand Y vs brand Z

Maybe dualies are not the most comfortable to drive around lite, but if I'm carrying a couple tons of payload or hauling a trailer over 4-5 tons, I will be much more comfortable and confident with duals :)

JB
 
   / How to spot a used 3/4 or 1T PU with enough grunt #20  
Another thought on dual tires: I'm not sure how much weight you're allowed to put on an axle with single tires where I live, but I am sure that it's far more than any one ton will ever carry.

As for automatic transmissions: I don't think a finned sump does too much good for cooling. In an oil filled sump, increasing its surface area isn't the best way to increase the heat emitted on account of a cooler, more viscous layer of oil against the relatively cool sump inhibiting heat transfer. One book I read suggested that on account of this problem, fins on the inside would be more effective than on the outside.

I don't mean to say that a finned sump is useless, just that you'll get better performance by plumbing an aftermarket transmission cooler....If you have enough in the budget for a cooler AND a finned sump, then I think you should definately buy two coolers. ;)

As for 4x4's, I say don't get one if you don't need one! That front axle and transfer case are a lot of weight to be hauling around if you'll hardly use it.

Engine wise...sure, you don't need a diesel, but new diesels are very easy on the fuel when you consider the performance you get. As for the Ford V-10, a former boss of mine had one in his truck. It pulled nicely...he could pass anything but a gas station!
 

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