Changing Hydraulic cylinders

[firefighter9208]

I have a Tatro Grapple on my Tractor. I'm not real happy with the clamping force. It uses a 2x10x1.25 Hydraulic cylinder from Surplus Center. This cylinder shows a Column Load (pushing force) of 7854 lbs. at 2500 psi. I need a cylinder on my Corn Picker to raise and lower the snout. This cylinder would be adequate.

I thought about ordering a 3x10x1.25 cylinder from Surplus Center to replace the one on my grapple and use the one off the grapple on the corn picker. Will there be a "lot" of difference from the 2" cylinder in clamping force. It shows a Column Load (pushing force) of 17672 lbs. at 2500 psi.

What do you guys think????

 

[AKKAMAAN]

I have a Tatro Grapple on my Tractor. I'm not real happy with the clamping force. It uses a 2x10x1.25 Hydraulic cylinder from Surplus Center. This cylinder shows a Column Load (pushing force) of 7854 lbs. at 2500 psi. I need a cylinder on my Corn Picker to raise and lower the snout. This cylinder would be adequate.

I thought about ordering a 3x10x1.25 cylinder from Surplus Center to replace the one on my grapple and use the one off the grapple on the corn picker. Will there be a "lot" of difference from the 2" cylinder in clamping force. It shows a Column Load (pushing force) of 17672 lbs. at 2500 psi.

What do you guys think????

Talk to the guy/company that designed the grapple.....applying that increase (2.5 times) of force can severly damage the grapple.....The larger bore cylinder will also slow down the grapple, to 40% of the smaller cylinder speed.

I would not recommend this increase of force, maybe if you can reduce grapple pressure, via a separate relief valve on that cirquit, to something more reasonable increase of force, something like 1500-1700psi....still need to consult manufacturer...

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I think you would want to watch real careful for the grapple flexing from the new cylinder.
Or perhaps as a cheap prevention measure add a $80 cross over relief valve to the hoses and set the max clamping pressure lower then the relief pressure of your control valve. Then the clamping pressure could be acceptable to you (and adjustable) without being excessive.
Ken

 

[kennyd]

I would bet the cylinder is fine and plenty strong enough. I think your problem is the top and/or bottom of your bucket is flexing. The Tatro and "Thumb" type grapples are just designed to hols things in the bucket IMHO, not to do any real clamping.

 

[J_J]

Well, you are going to have a significant increase in the amount of force applied to the grapple. You only apply just enough force to get the job done. You do not have to clamp the heck out of things to hold them in place. If you install a gage in the grapple circuit, you can see what pressure is being applied.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

You only apply just enough force to get the job done. You do not have to clamp the heck out of things to hold them in place.

A gauge on pump pressure line is allways a great help and can be a very nice tool if you handle fragile stuff....but it is allways max force if valve center is fully closed and cylinder is stalled (not moving).....that force is hard to control manually on a busy day....
Try to grab a beer can with that grapple without damaging it.........in 5 secs....

 

[firefighter9208]

I do need to mount a guage. I am running the grapple off of my factory rear remotes. The top of the bucket is not flexing. I welded a 1" thick bar the entire length of the bucket. Also, the cutting edge on my "heavy duty" bucket is 1" thick. At times it's hard to clamp a stump or log hard enough to grip it. I think my relief pressure may be set low.

Can I just buy a pressure guage and screw on a quick connect and check the pressures at the remotes (dead headed) or do I have to have one that goes inline to check the flowing pressure????

I thought that since I was going to have to buy another cylinder for the Corn Picker then why not buy a 3" and use it on the grapple for more clamping pressure. Then use the 2" cylinder off of the grapple on the Corn Picker. There is only a $10.00 diffence in the cost of the cylinders.

Chris

 

[AKKAMAAN]

I do need to mount a guage. I am running the grapple off of my factory rear remotes. The top of the bucket is not flexing. I welded a 1" thick bar the entire length of the bucket. Also, the cutting edge on my "heavy duty" bucket is 1" thick. At times it's hard to clamp a stump or log hard enough to grip it. I think my relief pressure may be set low.

Can I just buy a pressure guage and screw on a quick connect and check the pressures at the remotes (dead headed) or do I have to have one that goes inline to check the flowing pressure????

I thought that since I was going to have to buy another cylinder for the Corn Picker then why not buy a 3" and use it on the grapple for more clamping pressure. Then use the 2" cylinder off of the grapple on the Corn Picker. There is only a $10.00 diffence in the cost of the cylinders.

Chris

Best use for one is to T it in between pump and control valve....that way you can use it to monitor whats happening in entire system (even main relief valve), while operating...

There are special QC's for gauges, drip free too....

If your max pressure setting in the system is 2500-2800psi, you go with a 3000psi gauge, if max pressure setting is higher, I recommend a 5000psi gauge...

 

[J_J]

Yes, you can make up a QD gage setup, and if you install it before the FEL valve, it will indicate pump pressure, no matter what you are doing. You can trouble shoot, set relief pressure, etc.

 

[firefighter9208]

JJ,

So I need to buy a block with two 1/2" NPT inlets and a 1/4" inlet for the guage. Put a quick connect on each end and check flowing pressure??? Correct???

Anyone have a link to the parts needed. I didn't see the blocks on Surplus centers website only the guages. Also looking for the "cheap" Pioneer quick connects. Not flat face ones.

Chris

 

[J_J]

All you need is to connect a hyd gage to a female QD and you are ready to go. Nest, install a tee and a male QD in the pump circuit. To read total/relief pressure, it has to be before any valve.

To test relief pressure, hook up the gage, and extend or retract the cylinders fully, and you will see the relief pressure. I would recommend installing the tee with male fitting at the input to the FEL valve, where you can see it.

You could add a hose to the test setup for checking the pressure at other points on the tractor.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

JJ,
Anyone have a link to the parts needed. I didn't see the blocks on Surplus centers website only the guages. Also looking for the "cheap" Pioneer quick connects. Not flat face ones.

Chris

glycerin filled 0-3000psi 12.99$ @ Northern tool

glycerin filled 0-5000psi 12.99$ @ Northern tool

Check out Brennan Industries Test Point Fittings for test hose and couplings.....GOOD STUFF...

Connect this to the gauge...

Use this hose

And use this on the T

This is the T, I am showing JIC here , you might have other threads.....just look them up on Tube Fittings and Adapters...

Any larger supplier should be able to order these parts....