Car Brake Rotor Replacement / Resurfacing

charlz · Nov 9, 2009

ScottAR said:
If one side is worn more than the other side, you have a caliper issue.

I see now they are saying to replace the calipers along with the pads and rotors. Sure makes brake jobs look expensive these days.

Bird · Nov 9, 2009

I actually unhooked mine before I got the fix done- couldn't use the cruise, but I don't use it anyway

I'm just the opposite; I use the cruise control nearly every time I drive one of our vehicles. Just to go to the grocery store is 2 miles down the I-35E service road; 45 mph speed limit, and I just set the cruise.

This sounds like the same recall I had for my 2001 Ford Ranger and got fixed on 8/6/2007. They didn't even take it back in the shop. The service writer just did it there on the driveway.

Bird · Nov 9, 2009

charlz said:
I see now they are saying to replace the calipers along with the pads and rotors. Sure makes brake jobs look expensive these days.

The last brake job I helped with was on a brother's F350 dually and we had to replace one caliper and the pads because the pads on just one side were worn out and the piston did not want to retract in that caliper. The other one was good.

ultrarunner · Nov 9, 2009

Bird said:
I'm just the opposite; I use the cruise control nearly every time I drive one of our vehicles. Just to go to the grocery store is 2 miles down the I-35E service road; 45 mph speed limit, and I just set the cruise. This sounds like the same recall I had for my 2001 Ford Ranger and got fixed on 8/6/2007. They didn't even take it back in the shop. The service writer just did it there on the driveway.

When I'm in WA there are several areas with Radar... the speed limit used to be 50 and now is 25 and then goes to 40... I ALWAYS use my cruise control because it is too easy to go faster especially since the speed limit was higher...

I use cruise going down highway 1 in Oregon... lots of radar and way too easy to go fast.

coffeeman · Nov 9, 2009

ScottAR said:
Major difference on regular replacement rotor vs. premium rotor is the
premium is made in USA.

HTH...

That's enough reason for me to buy. I also have no problem with Canadian or Mexican as they are neighbors.

I have long been a person who would rather buy from someone down the street, as long as the price is within reason; apples to apples. Lets say I need a home airconditioner. I always give the local guy first chance before someone out of the "city". If price is close I go local. Just the way I believe.

Cheers...Coffeeman

ScottAR · Nov 10, 2009

???? Charlz, you've lost me...

I'm not talking about the left rotor vs. the right rotor...
Just the inside surface of each rotor vs the outside surface...
If your pads/rotors are worn about the same
just reuse the caliper.

When someone brings me a set of pads with only one
worn to the backing plate or a rotor that's made
contact with said backing plate there's something
going on more than normal wear.

charlz · Nov 10, 2009

ScottAR said:
???? Charlz, you've lost me...

Sorry, just used your comment as a segue to how 'they' now want you to replace all the calipers even if you don't see an issue.

If 'they' had their way a brake job today consists of 4 new sets of pads, 4 new rotors, 4 new calipers plus an extra charge to bleed the brakes since 'they' opened the system... and don't forget to pay for the new fluid and a disposal fee for the old fluid

I just find this really amusing because I know on my Toyota Sequoia (and I would imagine most newer vehicles) the front brake pad access has been engineered so they can be changed with only having to take the tire off (and maybe without if you have a lift). But now 'they' want you to go ahead and take everything off, replace with new, etc. It's like one step forward, two or three steps back.

buckeyefarmer · Nov 10, 2009

buckeyefarmer said:
I'm about to put my 3rd set of rotors on my dodge truck. this truck eats brakes, and before I realize it, the rotors are toast.
And when I went to move the truck the other day, no brakes. Got a leak in the back line.

Oh, and the shop light ballasts are all junk.

Got one side done tonight, new rotor and brakes. The brake problem is the pads are just too tight from top to bottom, they won't slide. I need to grind it down to get some clearance.

Bird · Nov 10, 2009

buckeyefarmer said:
Got one side done tonight, new rotor and brakes. The brake problem is the pads are just too tight from top to bottom, they won't slide. I need to grind it down to get some clearance.

I'm no mechanic, but I have done a number of brake jobs on both cars and pickups (and travel trailers) and I never heard of such. It would sound to me as if you have the wrong pads or a caliper with the piston not fully seated.

How did you go about pushing the piston back into the caliper before putting new pads on? I've used 5" C clamps and I've also just used my 16" channel locks at times. But keep in mind that I said I'm no mechanic, so maybe I'm misunderstanding the problem.

bp fick · Nov 10, 2009

buckeyefarmer said:
Got one side done tonight, new rotor and brakes. The brake problem is the pads are just too tight from top to bottom, they won't slide. I need to grind it down to get some clearance.

No, no. Don't grind anything. You need to use a C clamp and squish the piston back into the caliper. Or, use giant sized channel locks.

edit: Yeah, what Bird said!! He types faster.

Bird · Nov 10, 2009

bp fick said:
No, no. Don't grind anything. You need to use a C clamp and squish the piston back into the caliper. Or, use giant sized channel locks.

edit: Yeah, what Bird said!! He types faster.

And you don't want to forget to open the brake fluid reservoir, and maybe even take some fluid out so you can push the fluid back with the piston without running the reservoir over.

bp fick · Nov 10, 2009

open the caliber bleeder and take the pressure off right there. You should not push fluid back into the master. It's done all the time, but not recommended.

When you are done, you should bleed anyhow. Personally prefer the gravity bleed method for driveway brake jobs. Virtually guarantees no air.

buckeyefarmer · Nov 10, 2009

I don't think I'm explaining the problem right. The pads have a notch at the top and bottom. These notches ride on metal clips that go over the metal brake assembly. I need to grind the assembly that these clips go over. Right now the pads are very tight. I've done lots of brakes, never had one go on so tight, to where it won't slide out any after the brakes are released, so the pad is always tight against the rotor. Not only does it eat brake pads and rotors, but it also kills gas mileage.
I use the C clamp method for pushing the calipers back in, with brake cap removed. Been doing it this way for many years.

ScottAR · Nov 10, 2009

What dodge are you working on exactly? What part # are you getting?

buckeyefarmer · Nov 11, 2009

This is a 2001, 1500 Quad cab dodge ram 4x4.
I bought OEM brakes and rotors this time from NAPA.
This has been a problem since I bought the truck, just the one wheel. I think the original caliper part that holds the pads is a little out of spec.

Bird · Nov 11, 2009

Well, that's something new to me.

Travelover · Nov 11, 2009

Anytime I grind or hammer something, it occurs to me a millisecond later why it wouldn't go together in the first place.

Bird · Nov 11, 2009

Travelover said:
Anytime I grind or hammer something, it occurs to me a millisecond later why it wouldn't go together in the first place.

That's certainly familiar. I've done that, more than once.

ultrarunner · Nov 11, 2009

Is it rusted and you are going to lightly clean up the surfaces"

Are the new pads physically the same dimension on the backing plate?

ScottAR · Nov 11, 2009

It's possible the bracket is out of spec or bent.
Measure it out on the "good" side of the truck.

The reason I asked is a few years of late 90's early 00's GMs have
a different set of brakes that's thinner than the rest. Some year
Dodges take the same pads as GMs. I was hoping for a mix up somehow...