YukonKing
Bronze Member
Does anybody have any info on adjusting the fuel output on these pumps?
JM254 injector pump adjustments?
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greg_g
Super Member
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IT would help if you'd specify which engine. Manufacturer and model are usually on the valve cover or on one side of the block. FWIW, the manuals that came with my older JM 200 Series included a procedure for "Adjustment of Injection Timing". Or don't you have any manuals for yours?
//greg//
//greg//
It is a 2007 model year Y385 engine, I am at 200hrs so far so good. I did the retorque on the head at about 70hrs (oops). Just wondering how to get a little more poop out of my 254 engine. I thought that I read that the 284 had the same engine just adjusted different. I may be wrong.
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
The extra horsepower comes from a higher RPM, you can adjust the stop on the pump but other than that leave the pump alone or you looking for trouble
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
There is seal wire on the governor for a very good reason, and there are also very good reasons why injection pump and governor parts are not available to the general public.
So, all you want is a few more revs thinking it will make a big difference?
So, all you want is a few more revs thinking it will make a big difference?
So.......
Yay or nay? Looking to adjust overall fuel not RPM. I'm not looking necessarily for for more peak horse power but better torque at lower RPMs. In my opinion the engine is running lean. As I load engine i never get even a wisp of exaust color, maybe if I load to the point of stalling maybe the last 2 thumps it puffs smoke a bit.
Should these smoke a little more easily? Or should they always have clear exaust? Even under heavy strain?
Yay or nay? Looking to adjust overall fuel not RPM. I'm not looking necessarily for for more peak horse power but better torque at lower RPMs. In my opinion the engine is running lean. As I load engine i never get even a wisp of exaust color, maybe if I load to the point of stalling maybe the last 2 thumps it puffs smoke a bit.
Should these smoke a little more easily? Or should they always have clear exaust? Even under heavy strain?
20 20
Elite Member
I 1st have to ask, is it doing the job? if so leave it alone. Next if it is to small to do the job needed then go bigger. I own the 254 and have been overly impressed with the power. I use mine for logging {at one time BH} digging snow plowing etc... I have not baby'd mine at all in fact just the opposite. The problem with mine not being big enough has more to do with overall weight then HP's.
Turbo
Bronze Member
sounds like your engine is running a peak performance. if it was running to lean you get pre-ignition and/or a burned piston... if you get smoke it's not burning all the fuel and running rich. , that will rob you of power and torque.
I would leave it alone. and before you tinker, tinker, tinker, read, read, read on carberation before you touch, touch, and mess up what you have... just my opinion..
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Gentlemen,
These are not gasoline engines. The only time they will run "lean" or "rich" is if there are injector or intake air problems, and that will be noted by the engine missing or excessive black (lugging) or white smoke from the exhaust.
Getting more fuel at low r/m's involves more than just "tinkering". (Take a lesson from the old Cummins NHC-CT 270). You will have to recalibrate the injection pumps (done on a Bacharach bench), reset the timing, and change the spring in the governor.
See, I told you there was a reason for the seal wire and unavailability of parts.
They don't want you to kill yourself, or anybody else. Ever seen a diesel engine run away and come from together? Not a pretty sight.
You are obviously inexperienced with diesel engines.
Leave it alone, enjoy the ride, and tinker with something else.
These are not gasoline engines. The only time they will run "lean" or "rich" is if there are injector or intake air problems, and that will be noted by the engine missing or excessive black (lugging) or white smoke from the exhaust.
Getting more fuel at low r/m's involves more than just "tinkering". (Take a lesson from the old Cummins NHC-CT 270). You will have to recalibrate the injection pumps (done on a Bacharach bench), reset the timing, and change the spring in the governor.
See, I told you there was a reason for the seal wire and unavailability of parts.
They don't want you to kill yourself, or anybody else. Ever seen a diesel engine run away and come from together? Not a pretty sight.
You are obviously inexperienced with diesel engines.
Leave it alone, enjoy the ride, and tinker with something else.
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
I agree 100 %
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
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Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
Really excellent advice, Bob! I have seen a diesel run away and it was just about the scariest thing I could imagine. One of the two engines in a friend's boat ran away while the mechanic was setting the rack, which stuck, and it was really ugly. One head came off and went through the roof of the engine room, up through the main saloon, through the cockpit and tore off the tuna tower - boat totaled, in other words. The head came down in the bay about a hundred yards out, narrowly missing an inbound boat. Fortunately, no one was hurt, other than financially. Could easily have been otherwise.
A big 8 cylinder diesel running away is a terrifying sound- I'd guess it hit around eight or ten grand before the head lifted off. Sounded like a dirt big on steroids.
A big 8 cylinder diesel running away is a terrifying sound- I'd guess it hit around eight or ten grand before the head lifted off. Sounded like a dirt big on steroids.
Kernopelli
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Since we're on the subject of engine runaway, I have experienced this several times...well, actually three times. One was a small single cylinder four stroke, another was a single cylinder 2 stroke and lastly was a three cylinder 2 stroke. In all cases I initially was startled but had the presence of mind to put my hand over the air intakes and choke the engines before hard parts started self destructing. Not saying this is possible to do in all scenarios but it is a quick and effective way to kill a engine in an emergency.
