Heater Hoses in tractor Cab ?????

[mcd176]

For my cab build I was planning on running my heater hoses from the engine compartment and then up the center post of my cab to the roof where my fan and heater core is, do you guys think that I will loose too much heat by doung this?

I suspect that the factory cabs are ran the same way since the heater is in the roof of the cab as well or am I mistaken?

I considered mounting it like the CURTIS brand heaters right next to the door but that will block my view out of the lower window.

Let me know what you guys think.

-Mike

 

[Willl]

Nope, might be a little tough to prime but we have run about same length in our service trucks at work with plenty of heat.

 

[mcd176]

Thanks Willl

 

[bx24]

Mike-

I am building a cab similar to yours and I was planning on placing the heater cores near my feet (see attached pics). Doing it the way you described would seem to create a situation where your head is dripping sweat and your feet are frozen.

 

[CurlyDave]

I would never run anything but metal pipe carrying engine coolant inside the cab of any vehicle.

This is not an efficiency issue, it is a safety issue. If you have ever seen a heater hose let go under the hood of a car, the entire engine compartment is sprayed with boiling hot coolant and steam. If this were to happen inside the cab, the very best outcome would be incredible scalds and years of skin grafts.

If the vehicle were moving at the time, or if you were performing some critical maneuver with the tractor, the chances of a serious vehicle accident in addition to the scalds would be very high.

 

[RickB]

Common heater hose is fine when protected from sharp corners and other hazards. If it is good enough for most manufacturers, it should be good enough for you. The less clamps and joints the better; that's where most leaks occur. Having the heater in the headliner area of the cab is fine; the key to not having hot/cold spots is sufficient airflow through the heater core to circulate throughout the cab space well. Being able to direct airflow towards the glass is a big plus.

 

[PILOON]

On my homebuilt cab I mounted the heater upper right blowing heat downwards and slightly fwd towards the windshield.
This way the feet get heated and since warm air rises the upper cab is comfy.
I always planned to add a simple hinged baffle to deflect heat towards the front window but that proved unnessary as I also have another fan (computer muffin fan) that swivels as required for additional circulation (and is great for summer air movement).

I used rad heater hose but 1/2" copper for all the straight runs.
Additionally I wrapped the straight runs with the foam insulation that the box stores sell for hot water household plumbing, seems to help (at least I believe so).

PS; I blow snow in -30 deg often and very comfy.

Floors are another issue as tractors have loads of holes, slits etc to let cold air in and that was my main reason to blow the air downwards.
While slitted carpets (for peddals etc) do help they tend to get iced up and become a problem so good boots is the answer.

 

[mcd176]

Thanks for the info guys, I do agree after thinking about it I should run the lines in the cab with copper, however where can I find 1/2 to 5/8 copper fittings, my heater core is 5/8" and tee fittings in my radiator hoses are 5/8" if anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it.

I have my heater core mounted directly above my windshield and I fabricated a deflector out of aluminum to act as a defroster to blow on the windshield, the rest of the core will blow downwards, as far as air coming throught the floor I am fortunate enough thatt my tractor is a grand L so it has a rubber mat and I have sealed off the holes so cold air cannot come through.

-Mike

 

[GE222]

Have you thought about getting fresh air in. A closed in cab with warm air, and no fresh air will get really foggy on the inside.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Well, I dont know much about heaters in cabs yet but your idea sounds pretty good. Keep up the good work.

 

[mcd176]

GE222,

Yes I have a cabin air filter and fresh air ducts in my top, it will draw throught the rear of the top and into the heater body.

-Mike

 

[KennyV]

Hello Mike,
What you are doing is the way a factory cab runs the heat and A/C lines. Do fab them using copper, aluminum or steel, you do not want to take everything apart to replace hose when they need replacing. Insulate supply side where practical, don't worry too much where you can not .The final hookups at heater core and engine need to be done with short easy to change hoses and don't forget to place a water shut off in your hot water supply line.
In the winter I run my heat ans A/C to control the humidity inside the cab on my L4200... it is soooooo nice. Life in a cab... KennyV
You are coming along great.

 

[brewdog]

I ran my heater hoses inside the Sims cab I bought. They work fine and the heater will drive you out the cab.

 

[mcd176]

Thanks JohnDeere3720

The project is coming along nicely, I hope to have the cab watertite in a few weeks.

 

[mcd176]

Thanks KennyV and brewdog, your info just helped me alot, I will be posting some more pics in the next few days

-Mike

 

[PILOON]

Thanks for the info guys, I do agree after thinking about it I should run the lines in the cab with copper, however where can I find 1/2 to 5/8 copper fittings, my heater core is 5/8" and tee fittings in my radiator hoses are 5/8" if anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it.

-Mike

The OD of 1/2" copper pipe is actually 5/8", so 5/8" rad hose will make a good coupling.
I used jubilee clamps (screw tighten hose clamps).

Clamp the copper piping to the framework to prevent movement and use rad hose as your flexible joints as there will always be some movement (cab mounting, engine vibration etc).
Rad hose is the way to go as it is designed to be oil and heat resistant also the PSI's are relatively low, eg about 15 PSI max.

Also copper plumbing (sold by the foot) is much cheaper than rad hose (sold by the inch).
I added the slip on foam plumbing insulation sleeves on my copper runs to maximize heat transfer.

 

[nvr-enuf]

Hello everyone - I have a kubota L4330 tractor with a Curtis cab that I have made fit but is not meant for this tractor. I currently have an electric heater but it does not really warm the can like I would like so I would like to install a coolant heater. The cab is designed for a heater near the left Lower leg so I will use this location

My question - where do I tap for the coolant (in and out) and what circulates the coolant? The engine water pump?

I have seen coolant cab heaters on eBay with a shut off valves which looks to satisfy my needs

Thanks in advance to your answers

 

[tvman]

Hi nvr, I also have a 4330 with the curtis cab. I added their heater later on and it does a great job warming the inside. I have been trying to find my installation manual for the heater with no luck yet.

I do recall that I had to cut a line and add 2 hoses to the heater coil. There were 2 holes near the bottom of the cab to route these through.

You are right about the water pump providing the circulation needed.Of course you will also need to run a switched 12volt line to the blower motor. I also added a bypass valve inside the cab for summer tractor usage without heat.

I can play in the coldest weather without a coat or gloves If I can find the manual I will repost.

 

[jb62901]

Where I worked years age, we made up 20 of these for Harley oil coolers. Used one for my heater in the cab w/ 4" fan behind it. It won't run you out of the cab but sure takes the chill off.

 

[nvr-enuf]

Tvman - can you send me a picture of where you tapped into the supply / return for the cab heater ? I checked out my tractor and found a pipe plug near the thermostat. I am assuming this would be after the pump. I could not find a return, I assume I would have to add a fitting in the lower radiator hose.

If anyone has an L 30 series tractor with a coolant heater, I would really like to see how you plumbed it. Thanks