Broken 300CX

JDthumpsall · Jul 27, 2009

I was using my machine this weekend and I broke the pipe like support that holds the two loader arms together. This is the same piece the hydrolics are attached too. What are my options to repair this? It looks as tho I could just weld a new pipe on its place. Any ideas or has anyone ever seen this?

dfkrug · Jul 27, 2009

Wow, that is an amazing failure. Have any photos? Were you pulling
a load with the cross-tube when you broke it?

Yes you can weld the tube....you might have to cut out the damaged
section and put a sleeve in there before welding so that the repair
will be at least as strong as the rest of it. That is how I do my critical
structural members (like roll bars).

JDthumpsall · Jul 27, 2009

Thanks. No i was just pushing junk on my burn pile. light brush nothing major. I then went to pick up a small chunk of wood and right away noticed it. I do not have a pic, but i can try to get one tonite. To be honest it happend last night and i was pretty disqusted so I just went in had a beer and watched tv. Thanks for the tip tho.

kennyd · Jul 27, 2009

Wow, a picture would be great. This is the first failure of a loader frame I have heard of. I would talk to your dealer and see if they will help in any way...possibly cover the parts if no evidence of abuse exists.

JDthumpsall · Jul 27, 2009

The macine is a 05 and I have over 3000 hours on it. I have never tied anything too it, nor could you. It holds all the hydrolic lines.

mfreund · Jul 27, 2009

If you sleeve it make sure to drill holes in the sleve pipe. Them you can weld the ends and then weld the holes shut. It helps spread the load.

JDthumpsall · Jul 28, 2009

I have never posted a photo so i hope this works, its not great but I took it in the barn this morning on my way to work. There is some surface rust, but the steel is still in good shape. Just thought a few of you would want to see it.

Spudland_Dave · Jul 28, 2009

Did you buy it new? Looks to me like that end has been welded before...

JDthumpsall · Jul 28, 2009

I did not buy it new, I did notice that also, but both sides look the same and I cant see any paint seams. Even if it had been done before it didn't break at the weld.

WH401 · Jul 28, 2009

That's a pretty rusted & busted up piece. Is the picture of the dash in your avatar from the same tractor? 3.5k hrs is a lot of work time on a loader.

JDthumpsall · Jul 28, 2009

Yes, its the same machine. I know its alot trust me. Im not at all disapointed in the machine, I was just looking for ideas on how to fix it. I know the rust looks bad, but really all surface rust. The steel itself is still solid. I think I'm going to cut the whole peice out and weld a new pipe in rather than try to patch it back together.

dfkrug · Jul 28, 2009

JDthumpsall said:
I think I'm going to cut the whole peice out and weld a new pipe in rather than try to patch it back together.

That's probably what I would do, too. Your tractor replaced the 4310 that
came before it. How is the rest of it holding up? I am especially interested
in how the aluminum components of the rear axle are doing.

jimgerken · Jul 28, 2009

Sure does look like it was previously welded. That element supplies torsional strength between the two arms. To overload it and make it fail, they would have had to pick up stuff way too heavy, all on one arm (one corner of the bucket or one pallet fork, etc.). It makes me wonder what the previous owner used it for. It seems that this pipe goes clear through the arm, and is welded to the outside and the inside. You will want to cut all of it out, milling operation I suppose, and completely replace.

JDthumpsall · Jul 28, 2009

It was used on a dairy farm for gereral task. The machine was very well maintained, but i think it was used to the max if not more. I do not use the machine for much, and very little loader work.

WH401 · Jul 28, 2009

Well if nothing else, that tractor is definitely a testament to the strength of the new JD's compared to the older ones.

JDthumpsall · Jul 28, 2009

Aside from a few scrathes and a few torn stickers the machine runs awsome. Its loaded, mid pto rear aux, cruise control and I paid 12500 for it. Sure it has some hours on it, but I couldnt pass it up.

mfreund · Jul 28, 2009

JDthumpsall said:
Yes, its the same machine. I know its alot trust me. Im not at all disapointed in the machine, I was just looking for ideas on how to fix it. I know the rust looks bad, but really all surface rust. The steel itself is still solid. I think I'm going to cut the whole peice out and weld a new pipe in rather than try to patch it back together.

After all those hours I would splurge and take it to a spa(welding shop) to have a new cross bar welded in.

mjncad · Jul 29, 2009

I'd say by looking at the picture that one can see the factory robotic weld versus the hand done repair weld. That's going to be a bear to fix because of where it broke. Please let us know how you finally ended up fixing it.

GreatWhitehunter · Jul 29, 2009

Why not go on the jd parts site and price a new one? I mean I wouldn't waste my time trying to repair it. The parts diagram is really good on the jd site.

Matt

JDthumpsall · Jul 29, 2009

GreatWhitehunter said:
Why not go on the jd parts site and price a new one? I mean I wouldn't waste my time trying to repair it. The parts diagram is really good on the jd site.

Matt

I couldnt find just the cross bar and all it looks to be to me is a piece of 2inch pipe. I'm hoping to get er back up and running this weekend. I have some round bales to move. If anyone with a 300cx can do me a favor and messure the distence from inside arm to inside arm so I can get the proper size? Or is there a better way to get that?