Constantly flat front tire.

[J_J]

EddieWalker,

On the subject of patching a tire with slime in it. They can so it, but they don't like to clean out the Slime mess. It is a messy job. On any tire repair, they grind down the rubber to provide grip on the patch. If plugging, they ream out the hole real good. You might expect them to charge more if loaded with slime, or any other fluid.

 

[N80]

Here's a dumb question for you guys: When I look at tractor tires some specify tubes and some tubeless. Mine are Goodyear Dyna Torque 8-16s and they say 'tubeless' on them. I'm assuming you can still put tubes in them, but why the specification? I guess maybe you can't run a tire specified as 'tube' as a tubeless?

 

[Duffster]

I had asked about foaming the front tires of the CUT. They said it would be about $300 to do them and that when I wore out the tread on the tire, it was easy to scrape the rim to mount a new tire. I didn't ask if I had to foam the replacement tire or not. Eddie

I would just have the tires recapped. That way you could save the foam.

 

[N80]

I would just have the tires recapped. That way you could save the foam.

Can you recap R1's?

 

[Duffster]

Can you recap R1's?

Not sure.

I don't run R1 or R4 in these types of applications

 

[Soundguy]

Bead sealer comes in a can like pvc cement. has a little puffball brush on the end..it's more or less kinda like a rubber cement.. black in color.. fills in small voids.. etc. If your rim isn't bent, I'd sand the bead and repaint with epoxy paint.. let cure, and then remount tire with bead sealer.. then perhaps slime the tire... that OR go tubes.

I myself prefer tubes... if you have lots of thorn issues.. try a boot.. or stick with tubless with sealer plus slime.

soundguy

I have a front tire that is constantly going flat. Its a tubeless ag tire (4wd). It has many tiny leaks around the bead. I think the problem is my fault. Several times I have neglected to notice that the air pressure was low and have driven the tire off the rim, filling the rim with dirt etc. To fix that I have removed the tire myself to clean out the dirt and stuff. I've used the wrong tools (crow bar, cat's claw, screwdrivers,etc) to remove and remount the tire, plus I've had it done at a tire place several times. I think I have damaged the bead and that's why it continues to leak.

I'm tired of it being flat every weekend so I'm looking at my options:

1) Bead sealer. Don't know what it is. Never used it before. Don't know if it will help with a damaged bead.

2) Getting tubes put in. This would solve the leaking bead problem. But I'm worried about punctures. I've got honey locust trees like weeds around here. Always finding them stuck in my tires, but they've never caused a flat so far.

3) Foam. I don't know much about this. Have several concerns. Expense is one of them. Also, does the foam ruin the tire and rim if you ever want to do anything else? I'm also concerned about sidewall flex. Under heavy bucket loads these R4's have fairly weak sidewalls and tend to flex too much unless air pressure is just right. Will the foam make this worse? Better? Finally, but least of my worries, how about ride quality? Too bumpy?

Any thoughts or advice appreciated.

 

[N80]

I've been doing a little reading about foam and for my purposes I've definitely decided against it. The main worry that I have is that my manual very specifically says not to load the fronts. It does not say why (I hate that) but I'm assuming the extra weight stresses drivetrain and steering components. That coupled with a harder, less compliant tire and I'd be afraid I would put too much stress on the front end. If my tractor was 2wd, heavier duty, or allowed loaded fronts I'd seriously look into foam. But as it is, I'm going to drop them off at the tire place for tubes tomorrow. Thanks for all the excellent advice.

I also realize that getting tubes won't mean I've had my last flat, so I think I'm going to buy some proper tire tools and tube repair stuff. I already have a compressor on site, its just getting the tires off the rims where I have a hard time. I just use a ratchet strap when getting the beads to reseal. My neighbor down the road has large tire tools for doing the rears, but oddly, I'm going on 4 years of use I haven't had a flat in the rears.

 

[RWolf]

So far with the Mesquite thorns we've go slime has work real well. A neighbor has a tire that was constantly leaking down for whatever reason (we never found the hole). Loaded tire with slime and after several months of not using his tractor the tire is still holding air. There may be better products out there but slime is cheap, easy to use, non-toxic and water soluable. Works for me

Good luck.

 

[Duffster]

I've been doing a little reading about foam and for my purposes I've definitely decided against it. The main worry that I have is that my manual very specifically says not to load the fronts. It does not say why (I hate that) but I'm assuming the extra weight stresses drivetrain and steering components. That coupled with a harder, less compliant tire and I'd be afraid I would put too much stress on the front end. If my tractor was 2wd, heavier duty, or allowed loaded fronts I'd seriously look into foam. But as it is, I'm going to drop them off at the tire place for tubes tomorrow. Thanks for all the excellent advice.

I also realize that getting tubes won't mean I've had my last flat, so I think I'm going to buy some proper tire tools and tube repair stuff. I already have a compressor on site, its just getting the tires off the rims where I have a hard time. I just use a ratchet strap when getting the beads to reseal. My neighbor down the road has large tire tools for doing the rears, but oddly, I'm going on 4 years of use I haven't had a flat in the rears.

My knowledge of foam is limited but IIRC you can get varying densities of foam. Some of which would provide a similiar ride as air and is fairly light weight.

 

[Redbug]

George,

I think I would try what JJ and SoundGuy suggest. First, very lightly sanding the tire bead with a fine sandpaper just enough to renew the rubber surface and then using the bead sealer. I have seen the bead sealer used before and it does a good job.

I would try the cheapest, simplest route first. And please let us know what you do and how it works out...since it may happen to one of us later on.

 

[N80]

Hi Dave. I seriously thought about doing just that, but I had a few free minutes after lunch today and took them in for tubes. Total will be about $50.

And if the tubes do not work out I will try the bead sealer and all that but not until I get the proper tire tools. Using the wrong tools is part of the reason the bead is in such bad shape.

Also, for clarification, when I said I drove the tire off the rim, I did not mean totally off the rim, just that the bead was broken loose on both sides of the rim. I know that isn't good for them but I still think most of the damage was done by me trying to pull the tire all the way off the rim and then getting it back on again. A crow bar and cat claw (nail puller) just don't work very well.

 

[newbury]

<snip> I keep them at 35psi,<snip>

Eddie -
If they are filled with foam why do you worry about the PSI?

 

[oldhippy]

I think what Eddie meant was that before foam he kept them at 35psi so the ride would not be much different. I have a Yanmar YMG2000D and run foam in the front tires. I kept getting flats and got tired of fixing the them. It is pretty expensive and they go by the volume for pricing. I have a tiny backhoe and wanted to foam the fronts but price kept me from doing that. Got a brother-in-law deal on Yanmar set. I really can't tell any difference in ride. big dan

 

[Deerlope]

I got tubes in front and tubless rears, R-1's all the way around. A flat back in the woods is bad news for me. I lose all my fluid, so I went the Hydro Seal route, pricey but worth every cent.

 

[Redbug]

If you do buy some tire irons, (great investment by the way), make sure you get 3 instead of 2. I got 2 originally and after a couple tires went back and got one more iron...it made working on the tires a lot easier.

 

[N80]

Good advice Dave, makes sense. I guess I should also invest in some patch kits and maybe a spare tube or two.

Just picked up the tires from the tire place. They have a good many chalk marks on them. Wonder if that's where they found stuff stuck in the tire? If so, that does not bode well for tubes.

 

[Soundguy]

if it was a good store, the tire man ran his hand around the inside of the casing and removed any debri, and if it was a real good store.. they stuck a patch over the hole on the casing, on the inside. and if it was a great store.. they reccomended a liner or boot.

yep.. a tire iron or two.. at least one with a spoon, one flat, and one with a bead hook is good.. a valve core tool, and a valve stem fishing tool. the patch kit and spare tube are a good idea.. don't buy big cans of rummer cement.. get small tubes.. use alot and toss the tube.. use a new one each repair.

A nice tire hammer one side sledge, one side wedge will help break tough beads.

in a pinch, on a stubborn tire, use a pair of vice grips on the rim as a 'stop; for your iron, and then use yer foot to hold that iron.. use another iron or two to walk the tire around the rim.. it's the redneck way.. but on some tough tires ( especially the smaller ones! ) it helps

soundguy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

If you want to do your own tire repairs and you simply DETEST beating on a tire to break a stuck bead, get yourself one of these.

5500 Bead-Cheata [Shoup Manufacturing Company]

I bought one a few years back and you couldn't wrestle it away from me for love nor money! Makes a difficult task SO EASY!

 

[Redbug]

Soundguy...I don't know why I never thought of using vise grips along the rim. I wished I had known that a few tires ago! That sure would have made things easier. Using the vise grips means I don't need that third hand I had been wishing for...And less use of your knees.

FWJ...I had used a 6 foot long 2x6 lying on a tire to break a stubborn bead. I drive my PU truck slowly up the plank to pop the bead loose. Pretty redneck...

 

[N80]

in a pinch, on a stubborn tire, use a pair of vice grips on the rim as a 'stop; for your iron, and then use yer foot to hold that iron.. use another iron or two to walk the tire around the rim.. it's the redneck way.. but on some tough tires ( especially the smaller ones! ) it helps

soundguy

Great tip. Its the kind of thing you smack yourself in the head and wonder why you didn't think of it yourself after flopping around fighting with a tire.

So far, breaking the bead has not been too much of a problem on these fronts. I haven't had a flat on the rears yet. And, like I say, my neighbor down the road has all the bigger tools for working on the rears.

Probably my biggest problem with the fronts was getting the bead to seat back up. Ratchet straps, sometimes 2 at a time, are often necessary. I'm assuming that won't be a problem now that I've got tubes. Anyway, great advice all around guys.

I figured the tire man must have checked the inside of the tires and pulled out any thorns or nails or whatever. Don't know if he patched inside. The first thing I'll do if I start getting popped tubes is add a boot. I think with the right tools I can do all this myself from now on.......well, I was doing it myself before too, now I should be able to do it correctly anyway.

I looked at the tires real close today. Even though they've got a good bit of tread left on them, they are really beat up. Lots of slices. Lots of little chunks missing and even some cracking. They've been abused and have always been outdoors and from what I've read, they're considered light duty/ low price. When its time for new fronts I'll probably get something a good bit heavier duty.