HELP: old Speedex trouble

[Triple]

I recently inherited an old Speedex 1140 from my grandmother (originally purchased by my grandfather). The tractor is very used, but before it left her house it was still running strong. Now that it's here, however, it won't start. It cranks fine, but it isn't getting any spark.

I don't know much about these old machines, or simple lawn equipment in general. Is this called a magneto?

The plug wire is sealed into it, so it must be replaced as a unit. The smaller red and white wires that come out of it no longer have any insulation, so I assume they were grounding out and preventing the plug from getting spark. Where can I buy a replacement of this unit?

Also, how do I install it? The wires that come out of this unit (now broken) disappear down a little tunnel behind the flywheel assembly. The wires won't budge and I can't get the flywheel assembly off to see where they lead.

Also, I'm not certain I have the ignition switched wired correctly. In the photo below, I have the positive battery cable and a red wire that I assume once led to the magneto wired to the location labeled "battery." The other black cable (which leads to the starter) is wired to the location labeled "ignition." The white wire, which curiously runs to what looks like carburetor linkage on the front of the engine, is wired to the location labeled "accessory." This is a universal ignition switch purchased from AutoZone; the original was very corroded and missing its keys.

Below is another photo of the ignition wiring. Notice the two red wires and connector hanging down from within the engine area. Even with the magneto removed, these wires won't budge, so I don't know what else they are connected to. Also, on the other end of the connector, the red wire snakes it way back to the ignition switch, but the white wire is capped off. To what should this white wire be connected?

Not that it matters, but do I have the battery mounted in the correct location? This was the only space flat and large enough to place it. I grounded it to the frame and bound it to the seat post with a bungee cord.

Where can I find a replacement air filter? This shape/size element is nowhere to be found at my local Lowes / Home Depot / Tractor Supply / etc.

Lastly, are there brand new Briggs & Stratton engines that will fit this old tractor? It doesn't have to look exactly like the original engine so long as it mounts correctly and can be used with the original drive pulleys. When I have more time, I would consider tearing this tractor down and rebuilding it. An engine with a warranty may be a better route than overhauling the original.

 

[Wis Bang]

That is the iginition coil & the two wires run into the breaker points & condenser mounted under the flywheel. The magnets in the flywheel passing the coil create the magnito & energise the coil. Sandpaper the magnet surface on the flywheel and you will get the spark back!

The white wire looks like it goes to the shutoff on the carb that grounds out the ignition when the throttle is closed all the way.

The model & serial number on the housing contain the information needed to get a replacement engine.

 

[Triple]

Sandpaper the magnet surface on the flywheel and you will get the spark back!

Too late. The wires coming out of the coil are broken and exposed. I'll have to replace it.

How do I remove the flywheel?

 

[kebo]

Getting the flywheel off is not too difficult, it's just pressed on. First, if there is nut on the end (of the crankshaft) loosen it to where it covers the end of the shaft (this will protect the threads and the end of the shaft). Caution, don't remember for sure but that nut might be lefthand threads to keep it from working loose under engine vibration! Once you get it loose, take two large screwdrives and wedge them underneath the flywheel opposite each other (180 degrees) for equal pressure. Then, tap the centershaft with a rubber mallet or maybe a brass hammer while prying up with both screwdrivers at the same time. Yes, this takes a 2nd person to help do it all at once.
If it still doesn't budge, maybe try tapping not so hard with a real hammer. If it still won't budge, start soaking some penetrating oil down into it and repeat later on.
If that doesn't get it off, then you might need a gear puller that bolts to the flywheel to pull it off. Let us know if you get it off....

 

[dqdave1]

Remove center bolt on flywheel; set piece with 3 small screws aside and replace large nut till it is flush with end of shaft. Using a brass or lead hammer, strike shaft with a good blow; flywheel will loosen . It is on a tapered shaft. All parts can be gotten from a Briggs dealer; do not get aftermasrket parts. Battery went between your legs in front of shifter ( does yours have a 4 speed). 1140 was originally a 11 hp briggs.
Magneto ( coil) has to be timed correctly for it to run properly( that is why it is slotted) Make sure you put the replacement on in same position as old one.

 

[Wis Bang]

Since this engine looks old, you may want to replace the breaker points & condenser while the flywheel is off AND get a new key for the flywheel as it is cheap and only a little tweak will throw off the timing...B & S breaker points don't require gapping making them EZ to change -OR- there is an electronic conversion made to eliminate them..

Make sure the nut is flush with the end of the shaft and a good rap with a hammer will jar the flywheel loose...If one hit does not pop it loose get a puller...

the coil needs an 'air gap' as the passing magnetic field makes the electricity without actual contact.

As long as this engine has good compression you shouldn't need to replace it.

 

[Triple]

If the flywheel assembly is pressed in place, once I've taken it off, how do I get it back on?

I was looking for a serial number on the engine last night, and came up with these three sets of numbers:

Model: 252417
Type: 0161-01
Code: 79112111

Hopefully these numbers will help me find some parts...

 

[DanD78]

If you can locate a manual it would sort out the mixed (wrong) information you have been given. The armature air is only adjustable up and down. It has nothing to do with timing. This gap needs to be set at .015 or a business card gap over the magnets on the fly wheel. and points must be adjusted and set at .020. I am pretty sure you can get a Magnatron module to fit that engine with the two pole armature. That will do away with the points. The new coil will have three wires. The spark plug wire, a bare wire with an eye that goes under the screw that holds the coil on and the insulated wire goes under the spring at the condenser. The other wire coming out from under the fly wheel is also under the spring is the ignition wire. Grounding this wire kills the engine. Your new set of points will come with a plastic tool to compress the spring on the condenser.

Getting the fly wheel off will be the toughest part. What others have said will work. Light pry under the edge, Protect the threads and a sharp hard blow should pop it off. There will be two threaded holes close to where the nut came off that are meant for using a puller. This is the best method.

Most small engine shops, farm stores and some auto parts stores will sell parts. Tons of places on line sell parts. Mower shops are in the business to fix engines not give advice. The model, type and code numbers will be needed to get he right parts.

 

[KubotaSam]

DanD78 is correct with his information. One more thing to add is when you talk about the Ignition switch and a white wire coming from the carburator linkage. The connection on the linkage is a grounding switch. The white wire from it should not go to the Ignition switch you are using. It should not connect to anything that has battery voltage. This wire should connect to the same place as the insulated wire comong from the magneto coil, . It goes to the breaker points. If the throttle is moved past its slow speed it then grounds out the coil and stops the spark to shut off the engine. The magneto does not need any battery power to work. It should not be connected to any battery voltage or you will cook it. You can think of the magneto as a totally seperate circuit. The battery just provides the power for the starter and lights and has nothing to do with running the engine.

 

[Triple]

One more thing to add is when you talk about the Ignition switch and a white wire coming from the carburator linkage. The connection on the linkage is a grounding switch. The white wire from it should not go to the Ignition switch you are using.

There are two visible white wires. One snakes out from behind the flywheel and is capped off, not connected to anything. The other runs from the carb linkage to the accessory location on the ignition switch. This wire was also connected to the original ignition switch, so I assumed it should be attached to the new switch as well. Should the ends of these two white wires be connected to each other, I wonder..?

I'm using this site to order my parts:

Ignition Parts Points Coils Armatures for Briggs and Stratton Engines

I want to make sure I'm ordering everything I need, but I don't know what all needs to be replaced (or even where some of these parts are located on the engine). Points, condensors, plungers, etc... I'm confused.

If I buy the appropriate Magnetron module, the points no longer matter; is that correct? How is wiring in the new unit different from the original stuff?

 

[DanD78]

There must be one wire from the coil to the spring on the condenser. The second wire that you say is capped off has to be broken off from your coil if the other goes to the kill switch . The wire that runs from the condenser to the carb. linkage will ground the points and kill the engine. If you don't get spark when done disconnect the wire that goes to the carb linkage and make sure it is not touching anything.

I suspect the new switch you have is for battery ignition. You need a switch that will put the ignition wire to ground in the off position and open in the on position. The wire from the carb. linkage should also run to the switch if you want the switch to shut the engine off.

With the magnatron points are not need. The magnatron kit comes with instructions in the box. You don't need to remove the fly wheel to install. The kit will not work on all engines so check your numbers.

The two wires that come out from under the fly wheel by the starter are from the alternator. This has nothing to do with making spark.

Dan

 

[Wis Bang]

If the flywheel assembly is pressed in place, once I've taken it off, how do I get it back on?

I was looking for a serial number on the engine last night, and came up with these three sets of numbers:

Model: 252417
Type: 0161-01
Code: 79112111

Hopefully these numbers will help me find some parts...

Insert the key into the keyway on the crankshaft and push the flywheel in place making sure the key stays in place. Tighten the nut to secure the flywheel...

Code 79112111 means it was mfg in November 1979 and the 2111 describes the output shaft info &, I think, horsepower so this is an 11 horse. The Model number steers you for the parts.

 

[Triple]

With the magnatron points are not need. The magnatron kit comes with instructions in the box. You don't need to remove the fly wheel to install. The kit will not work on all engines so check your numbers.

So if I use the Magnetron, I can leave the old, broken wires where they are, not connected to anything? This is what I'm looking at:

Magnetron Electronic Module
Replacement Ignition Coil for Briggs
Replaces Briggs 398811
Fits models 176432, 192400, 226400, 250400, 196400, 197400, 19E400 and 19G400
For 7 thru 16 HP horizontal and vertical single cylinder engines
Part# 440417
Our Price: $42.79

Is Model 252417 included in "250400" ? If not, I'll have to buy this:

Magnetos, Coils, Armatures
Replacement Ignition Coil for Briggs
Replaces Briggs 298968
Fits models 144200 thru 147702, 170400 thru 253400, 300400 thru 326400
For 7 thru 16HP horizontal & vertical engines with breaker point ignition.
Part# 460006
Our Price: $39.43

I can only assume 252417 is included in "170400 thru 253400."

 

[Wis Bang]

Ask [e-mail] the parts place what you need for the numbers on your engine. They should be glad to tell you which one. Do you have a B & S parts dealer in your yellow pages? They should have this stuff on the shelf & would know what you need...

 

[Triple]

Code 79112111 means it was mfg in November 1979 and the 2111 describes the output shaft info &, I think, horsepower so this is an 11 horse.

Yes, 399cc, single cylinder, 11 hp.

 

[Wis Bang]

Using the local B & S supplier makes it alot easier to make sure you have the correct stuff. The coils all look alot alike so bringing in the one you have helps make sure you get the right stuff.

Also make sure you have good compression, sometimes a valve will stick open when these engines sit for long periods. Pull the plug and turn it over w/ your thumb over the plug hole & you will feel the pressure as the piston comes up.

We used to pull the head & squirt some oil on the valve stem and tap it shut w/ a soft hammer & made sure it open/closed b/4 re-installing the head. Head torque is easy, a standard hand wrench makes them thight enough...we used to just re-use the head gasket.

 

[Triple]

I thought I might save a few bucks buying online, but it probably is safer to see the parts in person prior to purchase. I have a dealer a few miles away I will visit this week.

I haven't used a tool to test compression, but it definitely builds pressure and blows air out the spark plug hole when you crank it.

 

[Wis Bang]

I thought I might save a few bucks buying online, but it probably is safer to see the parts in person prior to purchase. I have a dealer a few miles away I will visit this week.

I haven't used a tool to test compression, but it definitely builds pressure and blows air out the spark plug hole when you crank it.

Good then the valves are not rusted open. Get the spark in order and then all you need to worry about is the condition of the carb. If it was put away w/ a dry fuel tank you should be good to go.

It's alot easier to walk up to a counter w/ the old part and the numbers from the engine and get the correct parts than going online. It's alot easier to go back when it is not the right part too!

 

[Triple]

Never did update this thread.

The Magnetron module cured my ignition woes. Tractor ran great for two months after I got it running at the end of April.

Now it isn't charging its battery, leaving me no power to crank the engine. Unless I jump it, it won't start.

Suggestions?

 

[VALENT]

Have you tried charging the battery to make sure the battery will hold a charge?