How do I set up a hyd. top link?

[dieselram]

I have a rear remote kit coming for my 4300 and I want to have the top of a top and tilt, or a hyd. cylinder for a top link. Anyone done it on a Deere? What do I need and where do I get it?

 

[jdbower]

Unless there's a stock Deere kit you'd rather install I'd talk to CCM, you'll need the toplink and appropriate hoses/connectors. CCM's toplinks are nicer than the Deere ones because they've got a check valve to prevent leakage. For a list of things I needed you can see this thread. I had to install my own valve, but you can ignore that part unless you need the "tilt" function of hydraulic sidelinks.

 

[nmu98]

I went with CCM on my 3720. This thread shows the install and workings

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/126786-tips-ccm-top-link-install.html

 

[Phineas7]

Look thru this thread and all the pictures posted by Mech. I bought the same valve as he with expectation of adding tilt and a grapple. At the moment I just have the "Top".

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/114285-power-beyond-kit-790-a.html

I too have the CCM center link cylinder with the check valve. To be honest, it's kind of annoying in a couple of ways:
1. You can't "de-pressurize" is with then engine off, like I do for the loader and 3pt lift.
2. Because of #1 it's difficult to get the weight off of it to remove the pin for attachments that don't have a link in them.

But, if keeping it at a certain setting (which would be really good for tilt) if a priority, it does the job. It doesn't appear to leak down even after an extended amount of time (weeks).

It's a really convenient thing to have. On the fly BB adjustment. Lifting the rotary cutter at a high angle for going up/down terraces or thru ditches. I love it!

 

[kennyd]

Search the terms "CCM", "HTL", and "toplink" for hours of reading on this very subject

 

[Gator6x4]

Look thru this thread and all the pictures posted by Mech. I bought the same valve as he with expectation of adding tilt and a grapple. At the moment I just have the "Top".

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/114285-power-beyond-kit-790-a.html

I too have the CCM center link cylinder with the check valve. To be honest, it's kind of annoying in a couple of ways:
1. You can't "de-pressurize" is with then engine off, like I do for the loader and 3pt lift.
2. Because of #1 it's difficult to get the weight off of it to remove the pin for attachments that don't have a link in them.

But, if keeping it at a certain setting (which would be really good for tilt) if a priority, it does the job. It doesn't appear to leak down even after an extended amount of time (weeks).

It's a really convenient thing to have. On the fly BB adjustment. Lifting the rotary cutter at a high angle for going up/down terraces or thru ditches. I love it!

Why try to de-pressurize or want the top link de-pressurized?? I and others in my neighborhood that have hydraulic top links, set the parking brake when we are disconnecting and connecting an implement and either raise and lower the lift arms and feather the top link with the control or position levers to make connecting or disconnecting an implement very easy.

 

[dieselram]

So I just need the cylinder from CCM, a couple of hoses and some fittings? Can you get the adapters to fit the JD remote (male) at TSC?

 

[dieselram]

Oh yeah, where do you get that fancy "sleeving" stuff that JD and everyone else uses to protect the hoses?

 

[jgrreed]

So I just need the cylinder from CCM, a couple of hoses and some fittings? Can you get the adapters to fit the JD remote (male) at TSC?

If you email Mark Carter at CCM, and tell him what you need (your tractor model, length of TL you want, etc.) and he'll trade you around $220 USD for a great TL with quick-adapters and hoses. Once you get it it'll take you maybe 15 minutes to have it on and running, and I'm sure you'll like it.

Choosing your length of TL is really important too. I have several posts on here regarding this, if you search under my username you'll find them. I went with the 18" to 26.5" and I'm still not sure I made the right choice. Definitely do not go any longer than I did (I'm assuming your manual factory TL is the same as mine was, 19.5" to 30").

I'm not sure if there is a choice of color or not, but specify that too. I ended up with a blue one!!!

-Jer.

 

[Licklog]

I bought and installed my CCM top link over a year ago and like it a lot. The only problem I have is finding an effective way to "store" the cylinder when not in use. My original top link just used bar stock bent to catch part of the toplink. I have it jury rigged to fit the CCM but it is not satisfactory to me. What have you guys used?

 

[mfreund]

Question: If you only need the "top" portion is is important to get a cylinder with the check valve??

I read ccm's explination and cannot see how a "top" could fall on you ever.

Is the only need for the check valve for OSHA compliance?

I was looking at Hydraulic Center's web site and they have what I need for $122. I would like to keep $50 difference if I don't need the check valve. Is there a quality difference between ccm and Hydraulic Center?

 

[AKfish]

Question: If you only need the "top" portion is is important to get a cylinder with the check valve??

I read ccm's explination and cannot see how a "top" could fall on you ever.

Is the only need for the check valve for OSHA compliance?

I was looking at Hydraulic Center's web site and they have what I need for $122. I would like to keep $50 difference if I don't need the check valve. Is there a quality difference between ccm and Hydraulic Center?

I have the Deere OEM hyd top link. It doesn't have the internal check valves.

The cylinder "loses" it's position after you turn the tractor off. Not immediately; but, if you leave the tractor for a few hours and the implement is on the ground - little or no weight on the 3pt - it will change.

It's not a big deal.. it's a small irritant that I have to readjust the in/out tilt of my rear blade or the depth that the tiller will dig once I fire up again and get going.

As far as the OSHA/safety issue - it's a "non-issue" - IMO. Deere and anyone else selling non-check valve hyd cylinders wouldn't do it, if they thought it was a problem. And personally, I can't really imagine how the cylinder could "rapidly" depressurized and catch anyone under it (if they worked at it; someone might find a way). That said; anyone who works under heavy 3pt implements without significant safety precautions has more to worry about than the leak-down of a hyd top-link...

Save the $50; if keeping position of the implement isn't a big deal to you.

AKfish

 

[Phineas7]

The cylinder "loses" it's position after you turn the tractor off. Not immediately; but, if you leave the tractor for a few hours and the implement is on the ground - little or no weight on the 3pt - it will change.

There are times when I'm using my limb grinder for an hour or two, sounds like it would need periodic re-ajustment.

I can say that my CCM link does not leak. When I have the grinder mounted I can't set it on the ground because the PTO shaft is too short ( I wanted the unit as close to the tractor as possible, for manueverability .) So when not it use it stays suspended sometimes for weeks at a time, without moving.

 

[mfreund]

Thanks Guys, I love this site, you get replys from the people using the stuff