Should I repaint my JD 2210?

[WilliamBos]

Please, paint it, make it all pretty again, and take lots of pics, before and after.

That would really bother me too.

 

[markb74]

Zephrant, I agree with most of the other replies - I'd be bothered and want to clean it up. I would go the chemical/wax route before tackling a re-paint restoration to see if that helps any. I purchased a used 2210 in March '08 and there were several dings in the hood, although the overall appearance was cleaner than what you have described your tractor to be. I've often thought of taking the hood to a dent removal business just to see what they could do.

There is no problem with that at all, the PRV (pressure relief valve) kicks in to protect the system. You can also try to curl the bucket after you put it into the bank to try to break the chunk off-the curl is stronger than the lift due to mechanical advantage.

Another option is to check or have checked the PRV setting for maximum system pressure to ensure your system is putting out what it's supposed to. A gauge setup to check yourself will cost you less than $35.00 to put together.

Kennyd - I've enjoyed reading your posts for about the past year (I've been reviewing daily but just registered this evening). Your posts are always informative. Could you provide details on the guage setup you are speaking about? I would like to measure the output of my FEL hydraulics but am not sure about setting up the guage. I did some searching on this site, and came up with posts about shims and even a picture of a guage (although I'm not the least bit interested in increasing the capacity beyond specs). I'm assuming you would set up a T type connection, and put it in one of the quick coupler lines, but I'm not sure how or where to buy what I would need.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Zephrant]

I had some time today, and could not stay away from my new machine, so went out put some Meguire's compound/wax on the hood. Certainly helped, but it also made me notice all the rusting scratches. Not too bad from 20', but up close it is pretty annoying. I'll have to strip and repaint for rust protection, if for no other reason.

I've not been able to find decals for a 2210- Please let me know if you know of anyone with them, my Google searching has come up empty so far for that model.

Thanks Kennyd- testing the PRV would be a good idea although LBrown59 nailed it too- better operator skills certainly help. I was getting better today- learned the tilt before lift trick, and also to back out a little to take a smaller bite. Thought I was doing pretty good until I tried to tip it over a few times. I started a new thread to cover that topic: Help me ballast my 2210 for snow work.

When I get to painting, I'll take some good pictures.

Markb74- Take the hood in- they can have those dings out in minutes and you'll enjoy not having them every time you see your tractor. It's pretty amazing what an experienced person can do with dents.

I'll second the request for some details on the PRV test- I have some gauges around, but I doubt I have one that goes up high enough, and I certainly don't have the fittings.

Thanks very much all-

 

[mjncad]

Zephrant:

Go to Jd Parts for the decals. https://jdparts.deere.com


Just key in your model number and look for decals under the section(s) that cover the hood, etc.

 

[kennyd]

Kennyd - I've enjoyed reading your posts for about the past year (I've been reviewing daily but just registered this evening). Your posts are always informative. Could you provide details on the guage setup you are speaking about? I would like to measure the output of my FEL hydraulics but am not sure about setting up the guage. I did some searching on this site, and came up with posts about shims and even a picture of a guage (although I'm not the least bit interested in increasing the capacity beyond specs). I'm assuming you would set up a T type connection, and put it in one of the quick coupler lines, but I'm not sure how or where to buy what I would need.

Thanks,
Mark

Thanks for the compliments Mark, and welcome to TBN

You do not need a "T" to check or adjust the pressure. You just get a 0-3000 PSI gauge, a short hose (24") and a QD nipple that fits your tractor (about $8.00 from JD)

You just disconnect one of the hoses going to the FEL, and plug that gauge in and operate the joystick to energize that port and watch the gauge. The system will "deadhead" into the gauge and the PRV's pressure will be displayed.

Gauge From the Surplus Center

24" Hose

NPT Adapter ( not needed if you find a hose with one female end)


Picture of my gauge attached below.

 

[kennyd]

I've not been able to find decals for a 2210- Please let me know if you know of anyone with them, my Google searching has come up empty so far for that model.

As MJ posted, log into JDParts-it's the same basic parts reference system the parts guys use at the dealers and it's FREE

If you still need help with finding the #'s let me know...

 

[bigtiller]

One of the sharpest paint jobs I have seen was on a 318. The guy lightly sanded it and then sprayed it with that spray on truck bed liner stuff. Then he painted it green and added new decals.

It looked like it had been sitting out in an ice storm with 1/4 inch of ice on it. It really draws your eye - in July!

 

[sixdogs]

i bought a tractor a few years ago that was in the condition of yours. I dreaded the idea of painting because it never is as perfect as the factory so I decided to clean and wax.
First I used different grades of rubbing compound as well as a boat/fiberglass rubbing compound. You rub back and forth with this rather than swirls.
After a while it began to look brilliant again except for some dings and scratches. I worked the dings out and carefully touched up the scratches. I used barbeque paint on the exhaust.
All done, it looks a great after I waxed it. It does need a touchup every now and then but I think this was a better idea for me than re-paint.
Might not work for you but was OK for me.

 

[DWCox]

I am not a painter, but I have managed to avoid repaints by using rubbing compounds and polishers. It really is quite amazing how nice paint can look if you get beneath the surface defects. Do a search on auto detailing, and many of the principles they use in doing good work on engines and the exterior transfer over easily to tractors and other equipment.

As far as your initial question about being concerned about aesthetics: farmers are really the only ones who tend to get a pass for not keeping their tractors looking decent. They usually put in so many hours on the equipment that they are fortunate just to have time to stay on top of standard maintenance. But it does reflect kind of poorly on others--including contractors--who do not take care of property seen by others. Rightly or wrongly, it is perceived as laziness or carelessness.

 

[RadarTech]

*

You have to learn how to work with the tractor not against it.
Cooperate with it and it will do a lot for you.

Star Wars is on..
and I have the unbelievable urge to say: "Use the force Luke" "feel it flow through you" "become one with the force"


But anyway...

Mr. Brown is absolutely correct.
I learned alot my first 50 hours.. and Still learn more about what my little Kubota L3400 can do...

The key I have learned is that I can do anything if I take it in parts.

My Tractor is just like me, 5'6 and all. I can move hundreds of pounds of lumber, a few pieces at a time! And that tractor has moved 70 to 80 tons of rock.. Just a little at a time..