Chains Chains on front tires only VS. rear only

[PBinWA]

I've been running V-Bar Chains on my 2615 Gear for 3 winters. I always do the front tires first. I haven't noticed any front end issues (yet).

I have rear chains (and spacers) but the ride is murder when they are on, I only put them on when it gets bad.

I filled my tires this year and it has made a difference but the rears still slip a bit without the chains on.

 

[dsgsr]

If your 2615 has the same tire-to-zerk spacing as my 2015, you may not be able to put chains on the front. If I were to put chains on mine (A4 tires), the chains would be real close to the grease fittings -- not worth taking the chance.

But, if you can run front chains, they work well. I ran them on a Yanmar and an Allis Chalmers 4WD (Hinomoto) for a number of years with no problems at all.

As for putting chains on the back, chain weight shouldn't be a problem as long as you can drag the chains out to the driveway. A couple of years ago 1948BERG posted a great way to easily put heavy chains on a tractor. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/94114-putting-chains.html

It's one of those "why didn't I think of that?" great ideas.

That's the way I put my chains on the rear, also the same style Ice chains

It's not a good idea to put chains on front if you're going to use 4wd because of all the stated reasons. However, This yr I am running lite duty chains on front for steering because the tread has worn to a point it's not very useful in snow over frozen ground. I won't be in 4wd unless I must for that second to get me through a hole. Having chains on front for steering also saves wear on the turning brakes.

David

 

[JoeL4330]

I run front and rear tire chains with no problems. Ditto on my 4wd vehicles. You might be interested in http://www.4x4abc.com/ML320/ml_chains.html

Rear-only can be a problem going downhill if the rear end is unweighted ...e.g., no implement on tph and weight in the bucket, say ...then, no brakes ...but in 4wd, especially w. chains, engine braking ...no sleigh ride.

HST's, especially, should have enough transmssion slip that no harm is done.

I don't understand the front "zerk clearance" problem ...good chains, sized properly and adjusted right require almost no clearance (I run turfs, which are chain friendly...but don't know about Ags)...you could always look for a "S-class" chain, but probably not necessary with a few alterations ...incidentally, I used to use a dremel tool with the abrasive cutoff wheels to cut/remove links. Now, for removing and replacing cross links, I have a spiffy tool that does the job, even on my big-bear rears.

 

[AndyMA]

Both wheels on a differential axle pull as hard as the wheel with the least traction.

Yea, so if one wheel has "zero" traction tht is what you get from the entire axle.

45 years in NE Conn & central Mass (heavy snow area) plowing with tractors and never once used chains.

Andy

 

[atgreene]

Yea, so if one wheel has "zero" traction tht is what you get from the entire axle.

45 years in NE Conn & central Mass (heavy snow area) plowing with tractors and never once used chains.

Andy

You wouldn't get away with that around here. Chains are a must.

 

[RickB]

Chains on the front axle only is Russian roulette with the front driveline. I recently replaced the front ring and pinion in a NH class I compact as a direct result of loader work in snow with front chains only and too little rear ballast. There was no catastrophic failure involved, the pinion gear was simply worn out while bathed in proper lubrication. One poster in this thread attributes trashing the front driveline in a Kubota L35 to front chains only. An L35 is a pretty robust machine by compact tractor standards. How lucky do you guys feel? So you have run front chains only for 2, 3 years or whatever with no damage. How have you determined that? My customer would have told you and me the same thing two months before a hefty repair bill. If you need chains, put them on the rears where they belong. Space your wheels out, reconfigure the rims or centers, whatever it takes. Yes, they ride rough on the road. Got any idea how long it takes to wear out a good set of chains? Not many of you guys will ever find out.

 

[Wyld Bill]

Yes it will ride rough!
Kinda hopity-hopity--

Why not look at studs? many snow contractors around here use them.
Bigger studs are available for tractor tires tha you see on cars plus you can keep them on all year long.
I know of one contractor that has over 1300 hrs on his and ALL his time is on asphalt surfaces as well most of his drives are very hilly and short= much stop and go.
Also he does about 3 miles on a paved highway to service his clients.

You have sparked my interest. How would I put studs in my tires?? Do you actually drill holes in the tires (for the studs to go in)? Then you need to buy or borrow a stud gun right? Are they regular studs or special tractor tire studs that are bigger?

 

[Wyld Bill]

If I could only put them on one axle it would be the rear.I don't know if there is enough weight on the front axle with the blower lifted for front chains to help much. How far would you have to space out the rear tires. Are there different settings for rear wheel width.On alot of tractors there is.
Bill

No unfortunatley you can't reverse the tires on the rear. I need to be 1-1/2 to 2" wider on each side.

 

[PBinWA]

You have sparked my interest. How would I put studs in my tires?? Do you actually drill holes in the tires (for the studs to go in)? Then you need to buy or borrow a stud gun right? Are they regular studs or special tractor tire studs that are bigger?

Here you go:

Aerostich/RiderWearHouse Motorcycle Jackets, Suits, Clothing, & Gear

I ordered some of these just for fun. Maybe they'll let me postpone putting on my rear chains a little longer.

 

[Northland]

Just a word to the wise, the easiest path may cost you the most. Buy a set of truck chains for the rear, less money and will help add some traction. That, or make sure you don't do any heavy digging with the front bucket when running front chains.

I agree with atgreene. I have v-bar chains on all four tires. I had rear chains on my Kubota and while they worked well it wasn't until I added front chains that my traction and steering capability improved 100%

However, the biggest benefit of the front chains was that my tractor never slipped sideways again-even with my steep grades in a lot of snow. That benefit alone (no more puckering effect) made the front chains a good buy. However, without the rear chains I doubt the front chains would be of much use for my needs.

I had to reverse my front wheels in order to provide enough spacing to accomodate the chains.

Strapping a bunjie cord to the front chain links and placing on top of the tire and then driving slowly forwards and adjusting the link spacing really makes the tedious chore of chain installlation much easier. I learned that trick here on TBN.