Heli coil kits??

[WilliamBos]

Hi All,

What is the opinion on Heli-Coil kits? BIL's´ 2000 VW Golf 2.0 gas has a stripped pan plug hole, and because the pan is aluminum it will cost a fortune. This is why we are going to try and use a Heli coil to fix it.

We have never used one before, so are wondering if they are really that simple?

All help appreciated.

 

[SimS]

What about one of those DIY rubber plugs?

 

[kennyd]

They are really that simple! I have had excellent results using them. How thick is the area that the plug screws into?

 

[AlanB]

Yes, they are that simple, and yes, I would reccomend it.

That said, I would do a practice one or something once or twice before committing do doing my oil pan upside down.

Instead of breaking the tang with the punch, I would grab it with pliers or hemostats and wiggle till it breaks.

I would insert it with a liberal dose of blue sealing, threadlocking locktite gel.

I would grease the tap prior to tapping the hole and back it out often.

I would start the tap, and stop, and look and check for true, and make my BIL check for true, and get out from underneath and go back and check that I was true before committing.

Careful with the plugs go to the truck section if you want to read of my struggling with my truck and a cheater plug.

I would insert a Fumoto drain plug after I got it helicoiled.

Hope it works out well for you.

 

[WilliamBos]

So, would you recommend we drop the pan to bew on the safer side?

The pan plug is M14 x 1.5 x 22. So what size and what do we use as a new plug? bolt??

Any other tips are appreciated.

Never used Heli's before.

Thanks,

 

[kennyd]

Dropping the pan is the safest way if at all possible. It will ensure all chips are removed and you will have a better shot of drilling the hole straight.

You can get the coil in the same size as the plug is now, so you can use the factory plug.

 

[Sandlot]

AutoZone.com | Repair Info | Oil Drain Plug - How To Instructions

 

[Bird]

Dropping the pan is the safest way if at all possible. It will ensure all chips are removed and you will have a better shot of drilling the hole straight.

You can get the coil in the same size as the plug is now, so you can use the factory plug.

The only time I've used a heli coil was on an aluminum head on a two-cycle Lawnboy lawnmower, and I removed the head to be sure I didn't leave any chips or shavings in the cylinder. The old lawnmower was still running just fine when I gave it away years later when I retired and went to full time RVing. So, I'd agree that dropping the pan will be the safest way to go.

 

[Sandlot]

Wow! Lawnboy, that sure brings back memories. I started my first lawn care service back in 1964 (I was 8) with a used Lawnboy. The spark plug hole stripped out. I just took some string and wrapped the spark plug threads a few turns with it and screwed it in. Poor kids heli-coil. In 1973 my Dad finally bought a new mower and took the old Lawnboy out to his work and used it to mow the small patch of grass under the flag pole, where it is still performing this duty today.

 

[Bird]

Wow! Lawnboy, that sure brings back memories. I started my first lawn care service back in 1964 (I was 8) with a used Lawnboy. The spark plug hole stripped out. I just took some string and wrapped the spark plug threads a few turns with it and screwed it in. Poor kids heli-coil. In 1973 my Dad finally bought a new mower and took the old Lawnboy out to his work and used it to mow the small patch of grass under the flag pole, where it is still performing this duty today.

I'm a little older than you. I bought a new Lawnboy to use in my lawnmowing business in the Spring of 1956, when I was 16 years old. the year before I'd bought a cheap mower with a Clinton engine and it was too much trouble. But then in June, my dad quit his job and bought a service station, and needed me to help run the station, so I sold the Lawnboy.

Then in 1972, I bought a used Lawnboy. The dealer thought it was either one or two years old. It was my own fault I stripped the threads over tightening the spark plug, but the heli coil fixed it and after using it for 17 years I gave it away.

 

[ToadHill]

I used to helicoil all the spark plug holes on the aluminum head of my race car. That way if you took the plugs out while the engine was hot, you didn't have to worry about stripping the threads. You should take the pan off but if it's too much work you can cover the tap with wheel bearing grease and clean it often while you tap to trap the shavings.

 

[Matt_Jr]

Yes, they are that simple, and yes, I would reccomend it.

That said, I would do a practice one or something once or twice before committing do doing my oil pan upside down.

Instead of breaking the tang with the punch, I would grab it with pliers or hemostats and wiggle till it breaks.

I would insert it with a liberal dose of blue sealing, threadlocking locktite gel.

I would grease the tap prior to tapping the hole and back it out often.

I would start the tap, and stop, and look and check for true, and make my BIL check for true, and get out from underneath and go back and check that I was true before committing.

Careful with the plugs go to the truck section if you want to read of my struggling with my truck and a cheater plug.

I would insert a Fumoto drain plug after I got it helicoiled.

Hope it works out well for you.

Excellent advise. And I myself wouldn't drop the oil pan. Most of the metal shavings will come out while your drilling. The oil filter will take care of the rest. And like Alanb wrote, back the tap out often and break off the tang whith pliers or hemostats. If you feel more comfortable though by all means. Take off the pan. Good Luck and happy tapping.

 

[kenmac]

I've had good luck with installing heli coils. It would be easier if you can drop the pan without alot of trouble. I hate working off my back

 

[CATMAN]

I'm surprized that no one has mentioned to slightly pressurize the whole crankcase system while you are drilling the hole and tapping the threads. After you drain the oil, add some air pressure to the oil filler cap hole or even dipstick tube. I have done this on big diesel engines before, but I do have a air regulator so I don't over pressurize. Yes, it is a little messy, but the debris is constantly pushed outward. I would also "waste" a quart or two of oil to "flush" out the hole after drilling and tapping procedure was done.

Another thought on this repair is to just tap out to a pipe thread size, then first install a reducer bushing, then put in a smaller pipe plug for the drain. The advantage of using pipe thread is that you don't have to be totally perfect on the drilling and tapping procedure so that a factory seal or copper washer will seal properly.​

You can save the pipe plug procedure as your "backup" plan also.

 

[automech]

After drilling the hole oversized, fill the flutes on the tap with grease. It will make the chips stick to the tap. You can flush the hole out with a quart or 2 of fresh oil. I have installed a few oil pan plug helicoils, and have never removed a pan to install.

 

[WilliamBos]

After drilling the hole oversized, fill the flutes on the tap with grease. It will make the chips stick to the tap. You can flush the hole out with a quart or 2 of fresh oil. I have installed a few oil pan plug helicoils, and have never removed a pan to install.

Thanks. What about when we drill, should we use grease too? Or is there enough chips to matter?

 

[AlanB]

Thanks. What about when we drill, should we use grease too? Or is there enough chips to matter?

The chips from the drill will want to come down the flutes.

Often, in aluminum, if it is truly stripped, you can skip the drill part, that said, I would reccomend that only to someone with a good feel for the cut, which I doubt you would have it being the first time.

I would also throw in that you should put a stop on your bit (big wad of tape works well) so that you don't get pushing through, pop through the hole and have a spinning drill bit finding something in the bottom of the motor. Oil pickup comes to mind, or hanging on something and snapping a bit.

Again, the biggest thing too me, is too think through what you are about too do, and do it carefully that you do not make the situation worse.

I would not pull the pan.

 

[Danno1]

.

Helicoils are avail in different lengths. 1 diameter, 1.5 dia, 2 dia etc. Be sure you have enough metal to completely bury the HC (both ends). The end of the HC should be 1/2 thread pitch below flush. If not, use a Keensert or equiv.

Also, it's never a good idea to use threadlocking compounds on Helicoils.

.

 

[AlanB]

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Also, it's never a good idea to use threadlocking compounds on Helicoils.

.

Why?????

 

[DieselPower]

Personally I don't like Heli-Coils. Over the years I have had some of them pull out, unfortunately some in critical applications. When I was working for a truck dealer I got introduced to Time Sert thread repair inserts which are factory authorized by many engine and vehicle manufacturers. There are many different brands that are similar to Time Sert's. Unlike Heli-Coils they are not a coil like a spring. They are a solid piece of steel threaded on the inside and outside. Once installed a swaging tool is run through them which expands them slightly and locks them in. I have never had one of them fail yet.