Look at it this way - if the tractor couldn't be run at the rated PTO rpm for extended periods of time right out of the crate, then mowing, hogging, tilling, etc. would be a no-no for the first 50 hours. There are machines that get delivered and go right to work mowing all day at 2600 rpm with no ill-effects. A tractor would be pretty useless for a typical homeowner if you couldn't work it for the first 50 hours! For me, that would have been almost an entire summer's worth of mowing my 2 acres. Not practical at all. Long story short, don't worry about the rpms hurting your engine - they're built to take it.
Let it warm up for a few minutes to let everything expand and get the tolerances in the engine to where they need to be (there's a table in your manual for warm-up time) and then have at it. And to answer your original question, I usually end up around 1800-2100 rpm when I'm running my loader and box blade. That gives me plenty of speed on the hydraulics without them being twitchy. Maybe a little less for precision work, and a little more to get the loader to work faster if I have a lot of dirt to move. RPM doesn't really give you any more power with the hydraulics (they'll stall at the same load whether you're at 1600 rpm or 2600 rpm), so you're only really adjusting the travel speed.