Checking the timing on a Kubota L2500

[RobJ]

In my quest to conquer my overheating problem, this weekend I checked the timing per the manual. Really pretty simple.

1) I removed the fuelline on #1 injector at the pump, rotate the engine until you see fuel move in the delivery tube. You want to stop at the slightest movement.

2) When I did this for a living I used this tool. Sort of a sight glass to easily see the fuel move. I would have to remove the intake manafold to put this on so I bypasses it.

3) remove the side place on the bell housing and observe the timing marks. you can see the 20 degrees on the right, the line on the left is 15 degrees. Specs call for 17-19 degrees. The camera angle might be off but I'm pretty much right on 17 degrees.

No adjustments on the timing today. But those remembing my overheating woesI have some sort of good news. I ran the L pretty hard pulling a disk. The temp got a little over the half way mark and remained there. However it was a cool day, we''ll see this summer.

Rob

 

[CATMAN]

I never seen that type of tool before, but years ago on our Cat engines we would "flowtime" them. One would hang a spare fuel injection line onto #1 fuel injection pump "plunger and barrel" assembly, pressurize the fuel pump, and rotate the engine until the fuel almost quit flowing out the line(closing fill port internally) until you had 6 drops per minute=start of injection. Earlier, one would have installed a dial indicator probe on #1 piston and it would show how many thousandths of an inch before top dead center, then you would compare that to the service manual for how many degrees the dial indicator reading shows. Obviously, tractors with "degreed" flywheels are easier. The benefit of dial indicator on #1 piston, this that is takes any machining inaccuracies out of the equation(in case the alignment of crankshaft#1 TDC to flywheel #1 TDC mark was off). I just thought you might find this description interesting on the CAT engines. Nowadays, there is a machined slot in the counterweight of our crankshafts, you just set a magnetic probe into the side of the block at .040" clearance to the counterweight, run engine at 1100 rpm, then tell computer to electronically calibrate the timing(2 seconds). This way the ECM(computer) now knows the relationship between its electronic cam and crank sensors and the true mechanical TDC of #1 connecting rod journal= #1 piston TDC.

 

[wushaw]

Rob, I know it probably has been discussed before but have you thought of installing a mechanical guage so you can see what the block temp really is when your working it?

 

[RobJ]

It's on my list for the summer. I haven't seen any place that accepts the standard types for a mechnical gauge. If going to the trouble I would prefer a mech gauge.

At least this past weekend the temp gauge reached a point and didn't move after some hard running with the disk. so my guess is that should be about 160 degrees (thermostat temp). I'm thinking about getting another thermostat cover and tapping a hole in it for a mech gauge.

But I'm open to what others have done on one of these. I might bring home the temp sender and gauge one weekend and test it in some hot water. No numbers on the gauge you know.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[scott_vt]

But I'm open to what others have done on one of these. I might bring home the temp sender and gauge one weekend and test it in some hot water. No numbers on the gauge you know.

Thanks,
Rob

Afternoon Rob,
That sounds like a good idea to me.

Im intently interested in what your doing here ! Im really curious as to how you make out with this problem come summer time. Thanks for taking the trouble of posting those pics.

 

[wushaw]

Rob, where is the electrical unit screwed into? If it is somewhat simular to a car type you should be able to use adapters to install the mechanical sender.

 

[CamshaftLF]

Rob I have the sister model L2350 I installed a mech gauge norm mowing it runs 170 to180 if it working hard plowing or mowing down growed up fields it climbs up to 190-200 tractors 11yrs old.

 

[RobJ]

Rob I have the sister model L2350 I installed a mech gauge norm mowing it runs 170 to180 if it working hard plowing or mowing down growed up fields it climbs up to 190-200 tractors 11yrs old.

Camshaft, do tell where you installed it!! Sort of good news about the guage and bad news about the temps. The cooling system should be able to stablize at one temp.

Wushaw, the OEM unit is real small, in the back of the head. I've never seen one at the autoparts. I ordered a couple parts to dril and tap. One is the return just above the thermostat, the other is the bypass cover plate. Both were about $10 or so. The autoparts kind are a 7/8" or so threads.

Scott, my pleasure. I figure a lot of folks here won't get into the stuff I do but pics are always fun to look at if nothing else(I seem to hit the posts with pics first ). While I ordered the covers mentioned above, I also ordered a .20mm shim for the injection pump. I'm at 17 degrees now and the upper limit is 19 degrees. A little retarded timing might lower the temps if that's a problem...but I'll still be within specs. If I recall the shims advance or ****** the timing .5 degrees for each .05mm. You bet I'll post some pics or the pump removable and install. I'm figuring about 30 monutes because I think I have to remove the intake manifold.

Rob

 

[KICK]

160 degrees isn't overheating,its a normal operating temperature.

If it was getting up around the boiling point I'd worry, but sounds like your OK to me.

If you really want to know whats going on in an engine and how hot it is, get an oil temp gage... if you see oil temps up in the 200's she's running pretty hot.

you may need to lighten the workload, may not be abything wrong with tractor, just being asked to do something it wasn't designed for.

 

[scott_vt]

Mornin Rob,
My Massey usually runs in the 160 range, when it gets real hot maybe a bit more. Other than changing the oil in the injector pump and examining the glow plugs Ive never got any deeper into the fuel delivery system than that. Keep us posted !