Kubota L3010 Reviews
Kubota L3010 HST
Model Year: 2002
First Kubota was a 1980 L245DT that I bought in 1989 Had it for 13 years and sold It to get my 2002 Grand L series for the comfort of hydro trans and power steering. It's great for hauling pallets of firewood and loading 10 foot logs in my truck. Installed a 9 foot Bradco hoe for all the digging duties, seeing that you can't dig 5" without hitting rocks. It was barely broken in with only 195 hours. Also with the tractor deal was a Ford 5' fail mower, pto driven 5" wood chipper, detachable mount for the forks and 5 1/2' HD bucket. This model is a little under powered at 29 hp with the loaded rear tires. Lifting capacity was much lower than L245DT so I bought the shims to boost up the pressure and now lifts the full bucket loads with no problem.
Pros: So fast for loading in tight areas.
Cons: A little under powered for the size of the tractor.
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Model Year: 2002
First Kubota was a 1980 L245DT that I bought in 1989 Had it for 13 years and sold It to get my 2002 Grand L series for the comfort of hydro trans and power steering. It's great for hauling pallets of firewood and loading 10 foot logs in my truck. Installed a 9 foot Bradco hoe for all the digging duties, seeing that you can't dig 5" without hitting rocks. It was barely broken in with only 195 hours. Also with the tractor deal was a Ford 5' fail mower, pto driven 5" wood chipper, detachable mount for the forks and 5 1/2' HD bucket. This model is a little under powered at 29 hp with the loaded rear tires. Lifting capacity was much lower than L245DT so I bought the shims to boost up the pressure and now lifts the full bucket loads with no problem.
Pros: So fast for loading in tight areas.
Cons: A little under powered for the size of the tractor.
Photo Uploads:
Lot's of tractor ,with great reliability.
Model Year: 2001
always performed maintenance at required intervals,with Kubota parts(except oil) so far all is well.Only failed part was this year,had to replace control relay,affected glow plug operation.
Pros: Built well,very reliable.
Cons: Parts,filters and fluids very expensive.
Model Year: 2001
always performed maintenance at required intervals,with Kubota parts(except oil) so far all is well.Only failed part was this year,had to replace control relay,affected glow plug operation.
Pros: Built well,very reliable.
Cons: Parts,filters and fluids very expensive.
Kubota L3010
Model Year: 2003
Bought new, have never had one problem other then backing into saplings and breaking the rear lights off. A few dents in grill from using it as a bulldozer to push brush piles around. Would recommend it handily.
Pros: Highly reliable
Cons: cost more than some
Model Year: 2003
Bought new, have never had one problem other then backing into saplings and breaking the rear lights off. A few dents in grill from using it as a bulldozer to push brush piles around. Would recommend it handily.
Pros: Highly reliable
Cons: cost more than some
L 3010
Model Year: 2002
I use my tractor for lawn mowing with a 72" Woods rear mower, snow plowing with a 72" rear blade (which I recently replaced with a 84" blade), field mowing with a 60" Bush Hog, food plot preparation with a 60" King Kutter rototiller and firewood collection. I have the Glide Shift transmission. I've experienced a number of occasions where the tractor fails to move when shifted into gear and only after increasing the engine rpm and shifting into other gears does it finally move. I'm never sure exactly what I do that finally causes it to move and haven't discovered the cause of this happening. It's almost like the hydraulic system gets a bubble in it, but this is only speculation. The lawn mower works fine except that I equipped the tractor with the Industrial type tires with the low tractor tire tread rather than turf tires and the front tires sometimes leave tread marks in my lawn when turning. I have light soil. The 60" rear blade, when angled required that I run very close to the edge of the cleared area when snow plowing. If I'm not real careful the front tire will catch in the piled up snow and pull me very quickly into the snow bank, particularly in areas where my driveway has a good crown on it and it's slippery. This is the reason I purchased the 84" blade so that it would enable me to stay a little further from the bank on the side when the blade is angled. I haven't really had much chance to test this wider blade as I'm trying to seek out warmer weather for the winter. Loaded tires may also help, but I don't want to load mine as I think it would make them more likely to mark up my lawn when mowing. The 60" Bush Hog works well for field mowing high grass, but haven't really cut any brush with it. The only complaint I would have is that the owners manual doesn't recommend more than a 60" mower (nor did the Bush Hog rep that I talked to) and consequently I can't completely cover my tire width which is 65". I've only used the 60" rototiller one season so far to work up only a few acres of food plots. These initial plots were on sod that hadn't been worked up in years. This was all the tractor could handle and actually could have used some more horse power. My son actually made several passes while increasing the depth each time he made another pass to eventually get down as deep as we wanted to go. We have a heavy clay soil, but there was ample moisture when we did the tilling. Again the tiller didn't cover the entire tread width. The tractor gets around good in the woods with a loaded trailer of wood.
Pros: The tractor is well built and so far has been reliable other than the transmission problem mentioned above.
Cons: I would prefer more HP for a couple of the applications.
Model Year: 2002
I use my tractor for lawn mowing with a 72" Woods rear mower, snow plowing with a 72" rear blade (which I recently replaced with a 84" blade), field mowing with a 60" Bush Hog, food plot preparation with a 60" King Kutter rototiller and firewood collection. I have the Glide Shift transmission. I've experienced a number of occasions where the tractor fails to move when shifted into gear and only after increasing the engine rpm and shifting into other gears does it finally move. I'm never sure exactly what I do that finally causes it to move and haven't discovered the cause of this happening. It's almost like the hydraulic system gets a bubble in it, but this is only speculation. The lawn mower works fine except that I equipped the tractor with the Industrial type tires with the low tractor tire tread rather than turf tires and the front tires sometimes leave tread marks in my lawn when turning. I have light soil. The 60" rear blade, when angled required that I run very close to the edge of the cleared area when snow plowing. If I'm not real careful the front tire will catch in the piled up snow and pull me very quickly into the snow bank, particularly in areas where my driveway has a good crown on it and it's slippery. This is the reason I purchased the 84" blade so that it would enable me to stay a little further from the bank on the side when the blade is angled. I haven't really had much chance to test this wider blade as I'm trying to seek out warmer weather for the winter. Loaded tires may also help, but I don't want to load mine as I think it would make them more likely to mark up my lawn when mowing. The 60" Bush Hog works well for field mowing high grass, but haven't really cut any brush with it. The only complaint I would have is that the owners manual doesn't recommend more than a 60" mower (nor did the Bush Hog rep that I talked to) and consequently I can't completely cover my tire width which is 65". I've only used the 60" rototiller one season so far to work up only a few acres of food plots. These initial plots were on sod that hadn't been worked up in years. This was all the tractor could handle and actually could have used some more horse power. My son actually made several passes while increasing the depth each time he made another pass to eventually get down as deep as we wanted to go. We have a heavy clay soil, but there was ample moisture when we did the tilling. Again the tiller didn't cover the entire tread width. The tractor gets around good in the woods with a loaded trailer of wood.
Pros: The tractor is well built and so far has been reliable other than the transmission problem mentioned above.
Cons: I would prefer more HP for a couple of the applications.
Happy Kubota Owner
Model Year: 2001
I use my tractor for: snow plowing, firewood harvesting, field maintenance, brush-hogging/mowing, grading my driveway. I have HST transmission, R4 tires, front loader, rear grader blade, 72" Woods mower, landscape rake
Pros: Ease of use, reliability
Cons: For what I use the tractor for I can't think of any.
Model Year: 2001
I use my tractor for: snow plowing, firewood harvesting, field maintenance, brush-hogging/mowing, grading my driveway. I have HST transmission, R4 tires, front loader, rear grader blade, 72" Woods mower, landscape rake
Pros: Ease of use, reliability
Cons: For what I use the tractor for I can't think of any.