2008 NH TC30, 670 hours.
I wonder if someone could verify something for me:
I believe I have detected a short in the electrical system, but I need help to verify. This TC30 has fallen victim of the no-start issue discussed for other NH and DX tractors.
So here is my question: When I disconnect the negative battery cable, I get continuity between the positive battery post and a known good ground point on the firewall. This seems incorrect to me, and an indication I have a dead short somewhere. Can someone verify if this for me?
There seems to be a slight draw (.2v) on the battery when connected properly (12.5 volts at battery posts). Trying to diagnose, I find that when I pull fuse #1 (5A to Safety Controller and Park Brake switch), the draw goes away (12.7 volts at battery posts). This could be enough to drain the battery.
Related info:
UPDATE:
After doing all of the above, I decided to quit until I can determine next steps. So I pulled fuse #1 (so to stop any power draw) and put the 12v charger on the battery. I then sat down to type up the above.
After 3 hours, I went back out and reinserted the fuse, and the tractor started right up instantly, no hesitation at all. I ran it at various RPMs for over an hour and it never hesitated. It ran perfectly. Thought I was done, but also thought the true test would be if it started up again. When I shutdown and tried to restart, it would not even turn over; even with the charger still connected. I could hear the fuel solenoid engage, but not the starter solenoid.
Battery had 12.5+ volts when not running and 14.5+ volts as it was running, so I believe the alternator is working.
I’m still a little suspicious of the key switch, and possibly the starter relay modification (although I followed the directions clearly).
I’m totally baffled now…please help, and thank you.
I wonder if someone could verify something for me:
I believe I have detected a short in the electrical system, but I need help to verify. This TC30 has fallen victim of the no-start issue discussed for other NH and DX tractors.
So here is my question: When I disconnect the negative battery cable, I get continuity between the positive battery post and a known good ground point on the firewall. This seems incorrect to me, and an indication I have a dead short somewhere. Can someone verify if this for me?
There seems to be a slight draw (.2v) on the battery when connected properly (12.5 volts at battery posts). Trying to diagnose, I find that when I pull fuse #1 (5A to Safety Controller and Park Brake switch), the draw goes away (12.7 volts at battery posts). This could be enough to drain the battery.
Related info:
- Tractor has been garage kept its entire life, never left outside in rain or harsh conditions, never mistreated. Has had regular maintenance. Has been reliable until one day a month ago it just quit out in the field.
- Tractor will not start or even turn over.
- New battery – 1 month old, 12.7 volts.
- Added starter solenoid relay modification as discussed in TC33D won’t start thread.
- Fuel solenoid tested good, with 12+ volts. Cleaned connects best as I could.
- Good fuel at fuel bleeder point (have not checked for fuel at injectors).
- No blown fuses. Cleaned and re-seated all fuses.
- Tested parking brake safety switch with Ohm meter, tested good.
- Tested seat safety switch with Ohm meter, tested good.
- All wires appear to be intact, no critter damage, fraying or corrosion anywhere.
- Voltage and Ohms checked both positive and negative battery cables on and off the tractor. Cleaned both ends and made shiny off the tractor. Applied dielectric grease where appropriate. Both cables tested good with perfect continuity. No damage. 12.5+ voltage at starter solenoid.
- PTO and Neutral safety switch not tested, but visually appear to be in perfect condition, no damage or wear and tear, rubber protector in perfect condition. PTO switch believed to be good because dash light comes on when PTO is engaged, and goes out when disengaged.
- Removed the ignition switch and Ohms tested all contacts to appropriate connecters with key in STOP/RUN/START positions. Seems to be working as it should.
UPDATE:
After doing all of the above, I decided to quit until I can determine next steps. So I pulled fuse #1 (so to stop any power draw) and put the 12v charger on the battery. I then sat down to type up the above.
After 3 hours, I went back out and reinserted the fuse, and the tractor started right up instantly, no hesitation at all. I ran it at various RPMs for over an hour and it never hesitated. It ran perfectly. Thought I was done, but also thought the true test would be if it started up again. When I shutdown and tried to restart, it would not even turn over; even with the charger still connected. I could hear the fuel solenoid engage, but not the starter solenoid.
Battery had 12.5+ volts when not running and 14.5+ volts as it was running, so I believe the alternator is working.
I’m still a little suspicious of the key switch, and possibly the starter relay modification (although I followed the directions clearly).
I’m totally baffled now…please help, and thank you.