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If you let the engine completely cool down, will it start and run properly until it gets hot again?

I got mine from my local Agco dealer. I had to measure the internal width of the bucket because it bolts to each side of the bucket and then drill the holes for those two bolts when I brought it home.

I am also only familiar with a 3-wire voltage regulator on 8Ns. Perhaps the 4th wire grounds it? That said, you really need to know which terminal is which because you can immediately ruin the regulator if you touch a jumper wire to the wrong terminal. You usually take a short wire and just...

You can still find them. I just sold mine. If you had the front piece, you can lift all four wheels at one time.

You can make sweeping turns with ground-engaging implements, but sharp turns with the implement in the ground will break things on Ford Ns. Ford beefed up the upper lift arms with my model but I still lift plows, cultivators and disc harrows when making turns.

I have the invoice for my '52. You can see what an 8N, 2-14 plow, rigid shank cultivator, and tandem disc harrow cost in '52.

Nice to see that ole Dearborn Economy plow at work. It's great that you have the full history on your 8N. Best of luck with it!

I'm not familiar with the term "third function" but, when I bought my MF-1533 new in 2006 I had the dealer install remote hydraulics so that I could operate my hydraulic toplink. Hope this helps some.

As John suggested, start with the top cover and check the piston. The factory piston had 3 steel rings. Rather than a ring job on it, I would replace it with a piston from the '53-54 NAA with an o-ring and leather backup washer. It will seal better. Also take a hard look at the cam follower...

Sure it is. 8N hydraulics, when working properly, can lift ~800 pounds and it will lift all three implements you listed above. Parts are easy to get and how-to information is available at some websites and on YouTube.

Are you still 6-volt?

Yep. You can learn all you want to know from this compilation of photos and restoration info in this document: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/An Introduction to the Ford Tractor 2N Warhorse, v06-09-16.pdf

You have a 1944 2N. Looks like it may have a Sherman auxiliary transmission, too.

The 960 44043 is what is throwing me. The 960 would indicate that the motor came from an earlier Ford. This is what a model and serial # would look like on a 4000:

4-speed or 5-speed? Live PTO via a two-stage clutch? Pictures would help us help you.

This wiring diagram will also show you the firing order:

In addition to the ballast resistor? If so, this is probably your problem. An additional inline resistor to the coil is only needed when you have converted to 12v but retained the 6v coil.

This wiring diagram may be of help to you:

Is it backfiring through the carb or the exhaust?

Did you do a dry then wet test when getting those results?

Make sure that the lift lever is all the way down and then push down on the lift arms with your hands. Can you post a photo of the two levers?

As you have seen, it can be done, but Ford Tractor recommended you not do it. That's because, in gaining the experience mentioned above, you may lock the transmission in two gears or break something expensive. This is straight from the owner's manual: You can download a free owner's manual...

Nice Ford!!! I love the 3000. Hard to find a better vintage utility tractor that can still be used every day for the money you spend on one.

Angela sent me this pic:

Thank you! What would the lever be used for?

I am helping a friend dispose of her deceased father's garden and farming equipment. She is going through his stuff and trying to decide on what to keep, what to throw out and what can be useful to someone else to sell. Can anyone help ID this part and whether it comes from a lawn tractor...

I wait until I see a hose starting to leak before I replace it. I've had my MF1533 for about 17 years and have replaced a few of the loader hoses. I have them made for me at my local Napa dealer. The owners are also farmers and tractor owners. The replacement hoses that they make while I...

A friend of mine in Indiana is downsizing and relocating. He has the following parts listed in the Cincinnati Craigslist: Ford 1 3/8” PTO pulley. $200. Several 1 1/8” PTO pulleys, with/without buzz saw bracket and/or adapter extension. $50-$75. Ford dual wheel spacers with adapters. Fits...

A home-made rig that seems to work for Scott:

Also not AI:

Not AI:

This document may be of some help in this:

Just FYI - if you don't operate your 8N in dusty conditions, you don't have to use the dust cover. It wasn't even offered until late 1951 when the '52 models were probably out. It's recommended but thousands of 8N's were operated without them.

If you still have the factory M-S carb, I would use that every day, all day over one of the Chinese jobs. They are a crap shoot - some are ok, some suck out of the box. The M-S carb was engineered to be rebuilt over and over. Actually, many of the parts on the N's were engineered that way...

I would recommend doing the fuel drain test to fully eliminate fuel as your problem. Fuel flow can be impacted by the gas tank vent hole getting plugged (loosen your gas cap to eliminate this as a cause). If your float is sticking, that will also affect fuel flow. Did you replace the carb...

You said you "got gas" - how do you know it is enough and continuous? The way I test this is to take a pint jar, remove the drain bolt from the carb fuel bowl and you should fill the pint jar in about 2 minutes or less. If you can't fill it in that time, then you have a blockage. I'm...

A direct answer to your question: 8N12127B-8N12127B Years:1950-52 Distributor Assembly (Angle https://www.just8ns.com/NCA12106A-Years-1950-64-Distributor-Cap-For-Angle-Drive-Dist https://www.just8ns.com/C0NN12200-Years-1950-64-Rotor-Assembly-Distributor Make sure you have one of these...

Go big or go home, baby!!

Did you check all three filter screens in the fuel line to ensure there is no blockage?

Interesting implement. Here's one on an 8N:

Here are some plans that will work: https://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/3-Point-Lifting-Boom-How-to-Build-Your-Own.pdf

Yes, pretty much the same engine with a differently jetted carb that gives a little more power but also uses more gas. Has the same engine as your Jube, too.

I have a 1533 so don't know if it will apply, but I'll take a shot. To engage the PTO on my 1533 I have to engage the lever on my left near the gear shifter and then engage the electric switch on the dash. Hope this helps............Ed

You can get a replacement part here: 8N3105B-8N3105B Years:1948-54 Spindle Assembly (Front Axle)-

There is also a manual for the WM-4 in that same library. https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/implements/loaders/Wagner%20WM-4%20Loader%20Installation%20and%20Operation%20Instructions.pdf

Are you connecting a rotary cutter (bush hog) or a finish mower to your 8N?

You and me, both, John. Love the Powermasters. It was the first Ford from that era that made a great loader tractor, in my opinion. Hard to find a better, all-around small acreage farming and utility tractor.

Some info on your loader:

I would consider it vintage and yours looks like it's been restored or well cared for. Data on it here: TractorData.com Ford 4500 industrial tractor information

You only filled tubed tires with CaCL, never a tubeless tire. You still have to monitor it around the valve stem - that's where you will typically find a small leak and if you do, you have to deal with it immediately.

I use a 6' Landpride rotary cutter behind my 33hp diesel MF 1533. It's 20 years old so has a heavier frame than its successors being sold today. I can mow 7 acres of this stuff in about 4 hours IF it is fairly dry. If it is wet and lush, then add at least another 2 hours because I have to...

I don't use my '52 8N much anymore so I always keep the clutch pedal blocked. I've read many reports over the years on Ford forums where many folks have come asking how to deal with a frozen clutch. I figure better safe than sorry.

Just in time for Halloween:

A buddy of mine painted this Cub for his daughter:

Pink works for some operators (not my tractor here, though):

Thank you for sharing this. I hope I don't need it but it's nice to know that it's here if I do. I love Floyd. My mother's family is from Woolwine.

My MF1533 has two removable screens, one in front of the transmission cooler and the other in front of the radiator. I don't know if this applies to your model but you may want to check. It's still necessary to hose off the radiator fins occasionally, also.

The cab and especially the A/C are super nice in Virginia summers.

I don't use my '52 8N much any longer but I just cannot get rid of her. I'm getting ready to put new seals and brakes in her after doing that in 1995 when I bought her from the original purchaser. He replaced two plow horses with her and farmed 77 acres of corn, soybean, and hay from '52 until...

I am posting this for a friend in Wyoming and am not associated with the sale. Rick is selling a rare Selec-Trol hydraulic valve for use on Ford Jubilee or NAA tractors (1953-54). The valve diverts hydraulic pressure from the tractor to activate a remote (external) hydraulic cylinder, mounted...

Are you in the UK? Would you mind posting a photo of your 4000?

Well, if it hasn't been cleaned in 72 years you are in for one nasty job, one that you won't want to do again but will never have to in your lifetime. Get some rags that you can toss out when done, something to scrape with (I've used plastic Bondo spreaders and gasket scrapers), and your...

Working a 1/2-acre garden is babying an 8N. I bought my '52 from the original buyer. He farmed 77 acres of corn, soybean, and hay with it from '52 until I bought it in '95. He took great care of it and it was not beaten down any when I got it from him. He could no longer get up on it so he...

Napa sells a 3,000psi gauge but you'll have to adapt the stem to fit the test port. I made my own with a 3' hose because I'm 6'-6" and prefer to stand next to the lift lever when I use it, rather than be down on my knees.

Your pump is worn as most N pumps get. As long as it is working, leave it alone. The scotch yokes have a bit of play. If it is raising/lowering properly and holding for a couple of days, I would ignore it and continue to use it until it starts not operating properly. Parts are available to...

Are you keeping some type of ballast on the 3-point hitch for counterweighting? Putting a lot of weight that far out in front of your tractor will cause you to lose traction at the least. Loaded rear tires will help with the traction but you'll also need something hanging out from the rear to...

Well, the owner's manual will tell you to NOT do it. But, you will always hear from folks who say they can and do do it. If you mess up, it could be an expensive mistake.

Did you try the 4x4 pattern that I posted above just in case it is?

Do you have a dog leg shifter on the left side of the tractor that you change ranges with?

Yep, I don't think parts have been available for many years so you have to cannibalize one to fix another. I knew a guy in CO who had the Howard in his NAA so safe to assume it might also fit the Hundred Series and maybe early 2000 (4-cyl) Fords.

Restoration guys seek them mainly. Customizers also will use them to make "crawler" tractors for competition. Here is a photo of the famous "Fourtrans" Ford 8N done by a genius named Marvin Bauman.

They were aimed at Ford tractors in order to use Howard's roto-tiller, which they called a "rotovator". It's not an auxiliary transmission like the Sherman and the Hupp, it's more of an auxiliary rear end to slow the tractor while allowing the PTO to continue to spin at 540rpm. You can't do...

You definitely should not have a voltage regulator in the charging system if you have upgraded to a 12v alternator. The alternator is internally regulated.

Wiring for yours should look like this:

The factory ammeter was the loop type:

Is your amp meter the loop (inductive) or terminal type? The presence of a resistor would indicate that you still have a 6v coil. You don't need it with the 12v coil - it will affect performance/running.

Do you know the model of your loader? If the manufacturer's tag is still on it, it should show the model number to prefix with 19-. Ford Dearborn did sell a kit to add bucket control but I doubt that the kits are still available. I do have the instructions that came with the kit and can share...

If you don't have an owner's manual for it, you can download a free one from here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ford%20Tractor%20Owner's%20Manual,%20Model%20NAA.pdf

When you open the fuel valve on the sediment bowl, you normally only open it 2 full turns. When you get low or run out, you continue to open it all the way which provides another gallon to get you back to the barn. You don't normally want to run with it fully open all the time because you get...

What year is your 8N or which steering gear box you are rebuilding? The 8N had two, the later one was the better one to rebuild. The pre- mid-'49 had four bolts: The later, mid-'49 to '52 one only has two bolts: I can show you where to install a grease zerk to help you grease it when I know...

Absolutely! I plowed with a Dearborn 2-14 behind my '52 8N (23hp) for years. Used it behind my 33hp diesel MF tractor after that.

If you can find a donor hood, even a junker that still has some good sections along those ridges, you can cut out the good sections and weld them to the bad areas on your hood after you cut out the rusted sections. That will save some bodywork labor on your part. As John said, this is the area...

https://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/Repairing-an-8N-Ford-Hood.pdf

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL1512?impressionRank=2

Agree on the #2 Permatex. I know a number of people who have used the blue RTV and been satisfied with the result, but I've been a fan of #2 since my days working on air-cooled VW engines. I used #2 to seal the case (block) when reassembling and never had a leak.

You are actually aiming for zero load here and that's hard to gauge. I'm with John - you are better off if it is a tad loose than tight. Too tight will destroy the axle bearings. I also recommend that you reassemble with some Permatex Ultra Blue silicone RTV on all flange faces and wherever...

You can buy a pipe layer add-on for a subsoiler, or use the photos in this ad to fabricate one: PIPELAYER F/ASC 73410A I had to bury a 100' run of coaxial cable for my DirecTV dish and rented a ground saw that made pretty quick work of it.

I got these on Amazon - work very well to get down behind the radiator...

Get a battery load tester like this and it will let you know if it's a weak battery or the solenoid is starting to go:

The 8N-B you see cast into the engine indicates a 2nd generation 8N block that was fitted for the side-mount (aka angle drive) distributor. It also indicates that your engine came from the factory with .040 steel sleeves, but that doesn't mean this was not changed during a subsequent engine...

I've always used Shell Rotella 15w-40 in my 3000. I'm in Virginia with mild Winters and I do use mine year-round.

There are other locations where you can check for casting dates. If all are fairly close, then you are lucky to have a pretty original 8N. Crawl underneath with a rag and check under your hydraulic pump for a non-coded date: The rear axle housing also should have one:

I forgot to mention previously that you can determine when your engine was manufactured by the casting date here:

Sounds like a split and clutch replacement is in your future. A band-aid fix might be removing your starter (careful because the two bolts that mount it to the flange also hold it together so have a couple of 5/16" nuts ready to screw on them as you remove the starter) and spray a can of brake...

When you park her, wedge the clutch pedal down to keep it from freezing to the flywheel. I use a piece of 1x1 but there are many ways to skin that cat.

I suspect there is another digit between the N and the 1. You have a later steering box that came out at serial number 216989. The 3-hole rocker came out at serial number 215759. The Proofmeter (tach and hourmeter) was added to the instrument panel at serial number 290271. The cotter pin is...

Just 8Ns has them, too: Welcome to just8ns.com - Redbelly Restoration Headquarters

>> I differ in opinion on this. First there is NO reason to drain the hydraulic oil. You will lose a very small amount when you unscrew the filter so have something underneath it to catch that which is no big deal. << I agree with this. I don't change my fluid. I only change the filter and...

That is the entire manual. I think that you are confusing "page" with "paragraph", which is how the I&T manuals section information.

https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/service-troubleshooting/I&T%20FO-19%20Shop%20Service%20Manual%20for%20Model%20NAA.pdf

There is a good chance that the grease in the leveling box has gotten solid. You can take it apart, but getting the pins out can be fun. Use lots of penetrating oil, a brass drift, and a 5 lb. hammer, and you may need the ole flame wrench but they will come out. You can then inspect it and...

Unless you modify your voltage regulator, you cannot keep your 8v battery charged to 8v (you really need to charge at 9+ for an 8v) - 7.2 or 7.3 at most. Plus, 8v batteries have gotten pricey because they don't sell many of them. Personally, I would go all the way to 12v if I did not want to...

I would not have a tractor without a hydraulic top link anymore: Hydraulic Top Link-Tractor, 3 point It's so much more convenient to adjust the top link from the seat instead of stopping the tractor and getting off and back on.

If you cannot tweak your voltage regulator to charge an 8v battery you will constantly run it undercharged, so you may as well get another 6v or convert it to 12v in my opinion.

If you have remote hydraulics set up on your 3000 you can install a hydraulic top link. They are super handy.

If you want to replace the bracket, you can use this:

I use Rotella 15w-40 in mine. I'm in Virginia so Winters are not brutal here. The only two places where you can probably find an original light switch would be a New Holland dealer or a tractor bone yard if you have any near you. eBay might, also.

Data sheet with specs: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ford%203000%20Series%20Tractor%20Data%20&%20Spec%20Sheet.pdf

I love it - love the blue LED's, too. You can download a free owner's manual here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Operators%20Manual%20All%20Purpose%20and%20LCG%20Tractors%202000,3000,4000,and%205000.pdf

What John said:

I'll go down in the morning and take a photo of mine. Stay tuned....

Is this what you have in mind? 9N5260-9N5260 Years:1939-52 Bracket (Muffler Outlet Pipe)

The running boards on the OP's tractor are aftermarket accessory items.

Here's my 2-cents: If you want a parade tractor, then generally you want a restoration. The original color of a 9N is battleship gray, not red and medium gray. Inline filters like that are not only not original, they can often be an inhibitor to good gas flow in a gravity-delivery fuel system...

I've used Shell Rotella 15w-40 diesel engine oil in my old Fords for many years. Walmart has good prices on it: Robot or human?

Do not fill them to the top. This is a picture of my 8N but I believe it should be the same deal with your NAA. If the dipstick is missing from this location, remove the bottom bolt that is circled and fill to where the hydraulic fluid starts to run out of this bolt hole:

Me, too. Were it me, I would polarize it - can't hurt.

Do you have an owner's manual for it? Welcome to the forum!

It might not be the best time of year to get the best price for them, but they should come in handy up in your part of the country. Here's a pic of an old 8N with a cab, Dearborn V-snowplow, and Bombardier tracks taking care of business.

I can't help with a price but you can download a free instruction manual and parts list here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/accessories/Blackhawk%20Half-Track%20Instruction%20Manual%20and%20Parts%20List.pdf Your buyer may really appreciate having it.

You can test for a bad shut-off solenoid by removing it and trying to start. it contains a plunger inside that shuts off air to the fuel system. When you turn your ignition key on the plunger is supposed to retract and allow air in. When you turn the ignition key off, it extends and shuts off...

You can jump a 6-volt tractor from a 12-volt battery, just don't connect the two batteries the way you would on a normal jump. If you are jumping your 6v 8N, first make sure it is NOT in gear because you will be standing right in front of the rear tire and you may run yourself over. Connect...

Do you have power steering on your Kubota?

Looks like a Wagner WM-4 loader.

Chances are that your NAA had a loader on it in the past. Without power steering, you put a wider tire and pump it up to make it a little easier to steer with a full bucket. I would not run more than 28psi in them and 14psi in the rears if you don't intend to put a loader on it.

You can download a free owner's manual here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ford%20Tractor%20Owner's%20Manual,%20Model%20NAA.pdf

From the parts book it looks like you may need two tubes. I don't know for sure but it may be that the tube from the oil pressure gauge connects to a junction block, and the 2nd tube goes from there to the engine:

Here's the link to their online parts book: Search masseyferguson/651854/l | Shop AGCO Parts

It would be helpful to see close-up photos of the tractor, dash, etc. but it might be a Ford 4100: TractorData.com Ford 4100 tractor information

We have a lot of mature beech trees on our property and they shed branches like crazy. I use a combination of a clamp-on debris fork on my loader (Clamp on Debris Fork, 60 In. Bucket | Agri Supply 87637) and a landscape rake on the 3-point to get the ones that I can't just mow over to shred.

I have not read through all 12 pages of responses, so if this has been covered I apologize. The tips that I have read are excellent. Beyond gaining experience with pulling a trailer, you also need to learn how to load one properly to have the weight in the right places. Generally, most of the...

You said that you installed EI. I assume from Pertronix? Did you get the full kit with a new coil? Are you running the old-style copper plug wires or did you also upgrade them to modern ones? I don't think the old solid copper plug wires are suited for EI but you could ask the Pertronix...

I have the same tractor that I also bought new in '06. I bush hog a lot with it here in VA and have found that it really sucks in "stuff" and I not only have to stop after an hour or so to clean the two screens, but I also have to blow or hose off the bottom section of the radiator after I am...

Have you inspected the inside of the distributor cap and rotor for damage or signs of arcing?

Which distributor do you have on your 8N? Front-mount or side-mount (aka angle drive)? Did you do the 12v conversion or was it done when you bought the tractor?

I would not hesitate to buy a Ford utility tractor from the late 50's through mid 70's if they were in good shape. I grew up tuning distributors and carbs so it's not as mysterious as it would be to someone only used to electronic ignition and fuel injection. They are pretty bullet-proof and...

Here's a Gannon that was recently sold at auction: https://www.tractorhouse.com/listing/auction-results/217249715/gannon-13-534-blades-slash-box-scrapers-other-equipment

If it will help you sell it, point a potential buyer to this free download of an owner's manual for it: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ford%204000%20Owners%20Manual.pdf

Absolutely!! Buy it for $1k, put maybe another $1,500 into it and you'll have a solid worker that you could flip for $4,000 in this area. There is a reason these old Fords are still around after 60 years - this one is from '62-64 and with a little love, it'll operate for another 60 years. This...

With the 5-speed and live PTO, you can handle any implement including a baler and a modern roto-tiller. It will pull a 6-foot rotary cutter with ease. You can add power steering to them and it will be a decent loader tractor. Too much value to scrap. Someone with the time and a little money...

No way would I scrap it. The 4000 is a great small-acreage utility tractor. Which transmission do you have - 4 or 5-speed? Does it have live PTO via a 2-stage clutch? Does it have power steering? It's about a 50-horsepower engine and will pull a 3-bottom plow. Splitting the tractor to...

Here's a tutorial that shows how to construct some concrete weights: https://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/Make-Weights-for-Rear-Blades.pdf

You can download a free scan of the I&T FO-4 service manual for Ford N tractors here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/service-troubleshooting/1953%20I&T%20FO-4%20Ford%20Tractor%20Service%20Manual.pdf

What the two distributors used in 8Ns look like:

Not if he has the front-mount distributor. It has an offset tang so it's almost impossible to install it 180 degrees off. Ford changed to the side-mount (aka angle drive) distributor during the 1950 model run.

You can make your own for less than it would cost to buy suitcase weights. Here is just one solution:

When I get asked that about a tractor, gun, or fishing rod, my response is "You don't cook dinner with only one pot do you?" Then I duck and run............

I think a 5-footer is a better fit for an 8N because you don't have live/independent PTO to slow the tractor and let it work on a tough patch. As you have read from others, you can certainly use a 6-footer, but if you mow thick, high, lush grasses you will have to raise your cutter or mow half...

I have a similar story - bought my '52 8N from the original owner in '95. I needed a utility tractor that I could also plow/disc/cultivate with. I remembered my grandfather selling his two draft horses (but he kept his mule) for a Ford "red belly" and that kind of drove my purchase. The owner...

Awesome story! I knew that I had seen a horse like that in the past. Have been going down to the Outer Banks for 50 years to vacation, fish, and dive offshore!

The horse on the top shelf with the old baseball glove - is that Barney Google's racehorse?

Well, if your new pressure relief valve is working correctly, it should open at around 50psi so you should be ok. If you don't mind wasting the new oil, you could drain and refill with 10w-30 and see if that works better. Usually, N owners are going higher because they have the opposite issue...

This is pretty baffling - the first I've seen of too much pressure on an N tractor. Also spitballing here - was any work done on the oil pump recently?

Even though I have a loader tractor, I use this carry-all with it often. I can load firewood in the bucket and in the carry-all to counterweight the bucket weight and transport my chainsaw, gas, oil, wedges, lunch, etc. in it. I got this one from Northern Tool about 20 years ago. It has a...

Examples of how some have enhanced the basic structure:

SoundGuy has been answering firearms questions on Quora: Chris Britton

You can download a free owner's manual for it here: https://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ford 4000 Owners Manual.pdf Here's how to decode the model#: First number (1 digit) 2**** - 134 ci gasoline or 144 ci diesel engine 4**** - 172 ci gas, LP-gas or 172 ci diesel engine Second...

I run 15w-40 Rotella in my '52 8N year-round here in Virginia.

You said that you pulled the oil pressure relief valve and looked at it. How about the spring? Some folks have been known to stretch that spring or replace it with a heavier one to gain better oil pressure, sometimes to help sell the tractor. If the spring is too stiff, it won't allow the...

That's the exception and not the rule. They've gotten better and better at this procedure and it can now be done outpatient if you want. I elected to stay overnight both times. I had my right done 5 years ago and my left done last year. I played a variety of competitive sports for over 60...

I have zero experience with your brand of tractor, but I've seen this happen in others when the pressure relief (aka safety) valve in the pump is defective. It's popping open way before it's designed to. Again, no clue whether this applies to your Satoh, but it's something that I would check.

Tucker Tire in TN has been around forever and also has a good rep. They only sell on eBay and I think Facebook these days. I've bought replacement wheels and tires from them and would deal with them again...

Miller Tire has been around forever and has a good rep among tractor owners. https://www.millertire.com/search.php?search_query=turf%20tire&section=product

My EDC is a Benchmade, one-hand folder. Not a top-dollar knife, but holds an edge and will take some abuse. My neighbor is a blacksmith, farrier, and blade maker, and he makes some beautiful pieces. I can't buy one because I would only hang it on the wall - they are too pretty to use around...

Zeus is on the couch and Zoey is on the floor. Latest two of a long line of German Shepherds here.

My local Napa sells Echlin Ignition, which has a good reputation. Part #: ECH CS35 (points) about $25 Do you have a resistor installed in the wire to your coil, or are you just using the factory ballast resistor with the 12v coil?

Have you checked the fuel filter screens?

Your OCD can't be that bad - you did not put the letters of the disorder in an ;):ROFLMAO:alphabetic sequence - CDO.

Here's an original ad that lists the characteristics of the 601 and 801 series Fords:

Here's an original ad that shows the various models of the 600 and 800 series Fords:

About the only way that you can bale with an 8N is with a baler that has a dedicated engine on it. But, the lack of live PTO really makes baling a chore no matter which baler you use. Here's a Dearborn baler from the 8N era that shows the Wisconsin engine that runs it:

I use 14psi in the loaded rears and 30 in the fronts (have a loader) on my MF.

Here's a good wiring diagram for a late model 8N that has been converted to 12v:

I've used a hydraulic top link for years, first on my '73 Ford 3000 and now on my '06 Massey Ferguson. I wouldn't have a tractor without one now. The more you use it on more implements, the more you figure out new ways it is useful.

That was not a comment directed at you. It's part of his signature here and is an anonymous quote that you find on motivational poster sites. Anonymous Quote: “Artificial intelligence can never beat natural stupidity.” It was not intended to be personal. His question is an honest attempt to...

LOL.......yep, it was the guy below backing into the brush....

Guaranteed to make an OSHA inspector hyperventilate!! 😂🤣

I left mine on for the same reason that I don't bush hog with this:

Yes, Ferguson has used something called the "long pin" through the housing going back to models from the 40s. I've seen modern owners attach limiter chains to the long pin.

How would you augment that basic baseline with helpful info for the original poster?

The question was specifically aimed at the oil bath cleaner. Many are still using antique Fords to do real work every day, so 600 hours in a year is not an impossibility. Given that we weren't given that info, starting with guidance from the manufacturer seems helpful until someone can offer...

Check the front of your crankshaft pulley to ensure it has the engagement ratchet to allow you to insert the hand crank end into it. Do some homework (Youtube videos). More than a few folks have broken thumbs or wrists by hand cranking because of kickback. You want your thumb on your cranking...

The owner's manual says to do it every 600 hours. Dump the old oil, clean the filter with fresh gasoline or a solvent, reassemble, install and add fresh oil to the fill line inside the cup.

Got it - thank you!

Do you remember the thread size for the knob-valve?

A few from my collection:

I should have reported back long ago. The problem was a broken part inside the injector pump. It would allow the cam to turn but too slowly to pump enough fuel to start/run. Parts were not available to rebuild it so I had to fork out $1,300 for a new injector pump that should have had...

Replaced my right knee in 2018 and my left one in January of 2022. I played competitive sports of one kind or another for 60 years. I waited until I just got tired of the pain and had them done. I picked orthopedic surgeons who specialized in joint replacement. I've had excellent outcomes on...

You can also adapt these shop cranes to use them on your 3-point lift as well as in your shop:

I would not pull something like that on a cross drawbar without drawbar stays installed (white arrows) to prevent it from lifting on you at a bad time. If your tractor has a fixed drawbar installed below the rear axle, that would be a safer way to pull your implement. If you are doing to be...

Happy New Year, folks. I need to remove the gas tank and heat shield on my MF1533 with cab and A/C - Heat. I've got the tank drained, fuel/return lines disconnected, muffler removed and tank/heat shield are loose and ready to come out. It looks like the A/C compressor is interfering with the...

I've got a 2006 MF-1533 with FEL that I bought new. It only has 358 hours on it. Shed kept. I use it for variety of utility and gardening needs. Started it up the other day and drove it up to the house. Turned it off to run inside and get some water and pay some old water back (:)). Came...